I just changed out my 14 year old 8D Gel batteries and they seemed to not fully charge. Installed yesterday at 12.60V today 12.50. Inside the coach says 12. at the battery says 12.80. Still with the Xantrex Freedom 20. Plugged into 50amp inside storage. Also all inside lights are LED except for one still a fluorescent. The fluorescent seems dim and almost flickers. May need a new inverter, if so what brands are we using these days?? Also the light has not moved over to FLOAT. Is in that in-between area? Your comments are greatly appreciated.....1997 U295 with a 3126 CAT and solar panels
John
Indeed, your inverter/charger is not charging your batteries. Check connections between inverter and batteries again, including the large inline fuse in the 12 VDC positive between them.
Turn off and back on the breaker for the inverter/charger on the main 120 VAC breaker panel (you need to verify that 120 VAC is reaching the inverter/charger).
With the inverter turned OFF, do the outlets/appliances on the inverter-supplied subpanel all work?
Suggest you take a look at the Amazon offerings and read all the reviews. You should know your load and then figure about 2/3 of the inverter rating for long life. True sine wave naturally.
We have three inverters and one converter/charger. In the event that one goes out, there is a back up. Progressive dynamics makes an excellent converter/charger. Excellent reviews and ours is right on specs for the float voltage.
Pierce
John, consider a Victron 3000VA Multiplus. 5 yr warranty, look at a remote too. $1323.
Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000VA Pure Sine Inverter/Charger (https://baymarinesupply.com/victron-energy-multiplus-3000va-pure-sine-inverter-charger.html)
Victron Digital Multi Control 200/200A GX (https://baymarinesupply.com/victron-energy-digital-multi-control-200-200a-panel-mount-1.html)
Use ffmember for Forum Discount.
This is a wall mount inverter. Verify fit.
Here's a wild idea. Go back and check your battery terminals and the first junction in the battery cables. And maybe the ground for your inverter charger. Then be afraid, be very afraid.
Happy new batteries!
Well my Freedom 25 is toast....So I will be buying the Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000VA Pure Sine Inverter/Charger or Bay Marine Supply Basic 12V 3KVA System Kit and the BMV-712 also adding a battery disconnect. Any recommendations? Hopefully the unit will fit in the area where the Freedom 25 is(small divided area 2nd bay. Do we have one or two lines going to the Inverter??
Thanks in advance.
John
John, let me look at the kit in more detail, it probably is a better price for all the parts than buying individually.
Considerations...
The hardest part might be a wall mount compared to a ceiling mount.
The existing 120v wiring should work but might need to be extended.
The 120v switch might be a duplicate to your circuit breaker but could be used on the output side.
The 12v fuse and switch on the + side of the battery before the existing big fuse before wiring to your inverter is a good idea, A second switch on the negative side (not included) makes it easier to isolate the house batteries.
You may need some short connector cables (not included)
The other components let you monitor battery conditions (like a BMV) and control the Multiplus fron your phone app.
If your 12v cabling to the inverter is short then consider using a 2/0 pair for the Plus and minus sides (4 cables). They are easier to route and provide bigger cross sectional area the a 4/0 cable and much more than the 3/0 existing cables.
Roger
It looks like aome savings compared to buying individual parts, maybe $20.
I think the BS main breaker would be better on the output side of the 120v wiring.
The intermediate kit adds in a Cerbo data center and the Cerbo display/control panel and gets rid of the smart dongle. Less on your app, more up front info and control. Nice to have but not required. Probably still less than a new Xantrex or Magnum.
I would add a switch in the negative cable after the smart shunt and before the common negative post behind the white panel.
From the negative common post a (most likely) 3/0 cable goes to the inverter. Here you could use 2 2/0 cables.
Switch and fuse go in between the battery and the common plus post behind the white panel. Then there is a 350 amp type T fuse and then a cable to the inverter, most likely a 3/0. Here is where you could use 2 2/0 cables.
Save all the old cables. It coats about $200 for an FTZ crimper to start making your own cables. Hydraulic ones can cost less but you are likely to use the difference in learning how to do a crimp right with them, wasted cable and wasted lugs and it take more time (much more) per lug to do crimps with a hydraulic crimper. You will need a heat gun for heat shrink adhesive lined tubing, Ancor is the best but there is good stuff for less.
Let me know if I can help.
Roger
I had been soldering large cable lugs with good success and then used the mechanical type for aircraft cables crimped by using a single jack on the tool with the cable inserted. Then, I happened to see a hydraulic crimper in action and was sold. I ordered the one below and once it arrived, it didn't take long to master the devil. Once the insulation has been remove at the end of the cable, it's only a matter of finding the correct lug that the cable will slide into fairly easily. Any stray strands have to be cut off so all of the copper is within the lug. The guide that comes with the crimper just gives a rough estimate of the die than is to be used. I quickly picked out the die to be used but to be honest, it was really easy. The handle is pumped until the pumping becomes harder and then stopped, not trying to exert excess force as the directions state. The lug is crimped nicely in a pattern matching the die. I rotate the lug a few degrees and recrimp and the lug become round where the die compressed it. Battery or welding cable work equally well. ABN | Hydraulic Crimper (16 Ton) Cable Crimping Tool with 11 Crimper Dies | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/232807561914?epid=20020451477&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3634697aba:g:mZ8AAOSw7kVbKP91&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSRAQR8FABHjfpFoyRlXhWmeZPL6dC5OS4qauPHycUe47gpMSxNC2b1x6BBWtpfHkVWH4A7q9ouF3%252FHDglke%252FYwFl%252Bq2sl6w7uDhbzXZLhwMwlRfjByyOTzZSMqcEL6WcWtujJ03dSBOrkeUVriV6LHsZeiu9k9vdfw3p7mLixQCJvB3OXFliiKWTedv0NqIlsVdZtVhFLRIBDMgISenOlnZn%252F8m80FiKKVmJEvhTyxzogprHdUIf6999WifSOxuDwS9UExzTk78jAI%252BCcK9UPO2Xma%252F5KKPKklNz1%252B9xvGLuQgaQWtFAecU151JPEv4b0p4654jb3wKGNq%252FAzyCw8q4JxDp4EM9YOBz%252BF%252FxG8MM9oatwTXC0K9R7lK9FNkYZ29fxDb0pOMJ5CVKLmUxwD6TGGeYTsIRX8cn6vwQtbeSdrYJw9LOeF9trXj9W%252FNEYKGHXn5sGdXHl1V4eRnxZ5XOLKa1XnE3GwC6pfrNncIZ1WWKaALFfyWYNgnYDh07dhIYYP0Wxp0eExd7Z5VucipDnvIvXaT%252FghYnxif8KV4VNhjXR4UcLH%252BgpEe6K3ouIDB4vO99l16uc2kaZfUvJWQRClMBbgzrvQQMXRf7JUSTGIoaYEA5wFrGIIHB61iZhIhiAloOfgB9IwaqnZrfGs1s0luEa6GMbS5KRl4UlxjwPJJuLViZDhMJ4fnl2fu8kmi0CghUX1exjk06MJDAI4iP7%252F1qKWwTbw59IAEUCgGSkbEJfOu9NAs%252FGBcb%252BZdEdNYFdu5Y7jqGG9ngb8Zy%252F8aR6L0as9YIgfpnuo3vq44eeJ0KOpw3Olv1WNh64MtNCgsYxgBGRKxqN%252BOm1PU0crzQ%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2pLJvfFf) Here is a video of the exact same model that I purchased. A video is worth a thousand words.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzMzoc8lWQY
For the copper lugs, I prefer the type that bell slightly where the cable is inserted. Just makes it slightly easier and faster.
Pierce
Pierce, I purchased the same tool* to make one pair of cables, and well, it's found more use than I originally anticipated.
The dies are marked in the metric equivalent of wire gauge numbers; area in square millimeters. There's this neat number called Pi, it's absolutely transcendental, and when one-half the diameter of the wire is multiplied by one-half the diameter of the wire, all in millimeters, and then by Pi the result is the area of the cross section of the wire! Grin.
*$60 on Amazon.
If you do go with 2- 2/0 wires make sure both are exactly the same length. If one is shorter it will carry more of the load.
NEC Amp capacity for the different sizes of copper wire in free air.
2/0 344 amps
2-2/0 688 amps
3/0 401 amps
4/0 466 amps
Just ordered the Victron Multi-Plus 3000VA, Blue Sea battery switch, RJ45 Cable,Victron MK3-USB interface, Victron smart Shunt Battery Monitor with Blue-tooth, Victron Touch Accessory Screen, Victron Cerbo GX, Victron VE Direct Cable
This should do the job
John
It will be nice.
Did you check the battery type setting in your Xantrex
I've been shopping around for a Magnum 2812, if anyone knows of a good source? Several suppliers state that the Magnum is on back order.
My Heart 2500 is still working but the internal transfer switch is starting to have issues. At least that is what it appears to me. Time to update to a pure sine wave anyway.