Storing my shore power cord and noticed a film of water in the floor of the bay. Not good. Checked the hot water heater and water pump and water was leaking around diaphragm.
Removing water pump was a total PIA. Had just filled fresh water tank. Learned you must completely drain fresh water tank for this job. Bolts holding water pump down were driven into the rubber mounts so that two of three could not be removed. Finally got a big screw driver and ripped it up.
Camping world was around the corner but water pump selection was mostly sold out. Bought a SeaFlo DFDP1-040-045-33 that was close in size and rated performance. Only $49.00. But it was not an exact fit, so in plumbing close is not good enough apparently. Had to cut pex, install a fitting and connect with braided water line. Made a run to Lowes for fittings and their selection was not good. Lots of empty pegs.
Naturally the new Pex fitting crimp ring was just .2 mm too close so it interfered with tightening the adapter.
Finally got it together 11 hours after discovery. It is so quiet I can't hear it running inside or outside coach. Spending a bonus night in Albuquerque and hopefully headed out in the morning. Two Ibuprofen and two glasses of wine.
The camping world west of town at the top of the hill ?
Yes
Idea for everyone,CARRY A SPARE,they all will fail sooner or later.
Our coach came with a spare and it was installed when our 7 year old pump gave out.
Bought a new spare.
Don't want to be without water.
Question related to this topic
I am planning to replace the shurflo 4008 to the 4048 model. As seen in the attached pics I have an accumulator which I intend to keep. I will be adding extended hoses to reduce vibration as well as a filter which this unit did not have added by the PO. Is there adjustments I have to make to match the accumulator which is pre set at 20lbs. ?? Also looking at the pic the exchanger and fan for the bay heating is located right in front of the water pump. Is this really the right position for this unit? It seems strange that the fan will blow out towards the door instead of at the water pump. I have not checked but should there be another one on the manibloc side as well??
Accumulator PSI is CUT-IN PSI minus 2 PSI, so it depends on your pump.
To check the accumulator, briefly press in the schrader valve (just like a car tirevalve). If water comes out, the diaphragm is bad and the accumulator needs to be replaced.
To set PSI, I just use a bicycle pump. Depressurize the system (open a faucet with pump off and shore water off). Set PSI.
Peter,
1. Yes
2. Pointed this way it pushes warm air to the door and then over to the manibloc side through the space where the divider don't go all the way to thee door and seal off. The hoses to the heat exchanger should care of the water pump. Generally they are routed right over/under the water pump.
3. No Just the circulation described in #2
Mike
Like they say,do what makes you happy,but you do not need an accumulator with either of those pumps,they are made to work fine
without one,for some reason many believe/think the pump will somehow run better with one,and yes you can probably get a glass
of water without the pump coming on but less connections make for less leaks.
Glad you resolved your water pump problem
For all, a great simple idea is to add a ball valve any place on in & out water pump hoses to easily change out water pump without making a wet mess.
Separate topic, we find a small plastic Shurflo unmounted accumulator works fine with Shurflo 4008 & 4048 and think that the large accumulator is not needed. Space is limited.
So, if you have gas/ elec water heater does the accumulator help take care of the expansion as the water heats up? I've see the pressure relief on the water heater starting leaking after removing the accumulator.when 10 gallons of water heats up the expansion has to go somewhere. Just a thought.
Mine has the ball valves. I assumed it came that way
It is called ullage and all water heaters have the space for expansion.
Maintaining your water heater | Portland.gov (https://www.portland.gov/water/report-water-quality-issues/water-heater-maintenance-tips)
Our coach came with a Flojet pump and accumulator tank. The accumulator tank bladder failed so I ordered a new one and it was a 2-3 months to a ship. The entire pump, base, tank and all the connections was only about $80 more and shipped in days So I ordered one from Boatersland. Easy exchange, I put it in some 1/2" thick foam pieces and didn't screw it down, makes it quieter.
Shop around, there were less than $350 17 months ago.
Flojet 02840100A High Vol Water Sys 4.5GPM/12V - Flojet 02840100A - Water... (https://www.boatersland.com/flojet-02840100a-high-vol-water-sys-4-5gpm-12v.html)
I carry a spare water pump.
That's true until the water heater becomes water logged, then the ullage is lost
We also support Roger with floating Shurflo 4008/4048 water pump sitting in a thick foam block. With long flexible hoses, everything is quiet and can easily be moved out of compartment for maintenance. Small expansion tank is un-mounted, inline, on output hose. Also used spare water pump, and with the ball valves, can be easily swapped.
Water pump is so quiet, to know if it is unexpectedly running, maybe supplying a water leak, wired a switched kitchen piezo sounder to pump motor leads.