The pull out light switch on Mel's 93 GV 240 has developed a problem in that no matter what you do to try and switch off the clearance and rear lights they do not go off. The headlights will cancel but pushing it in does not cancel the other lights. I have looked at possible issues but feel the switch contacts inside are not doing their job. Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it?
How do you remove the shaft end plastic pull knob and there is no setscrew to undo like other switches so how can I remove it to be able to pull the complete unit off the dash?
Does the wiring harness pull off the unit so one can maybe take it all apart, and are there any replacement switches available anywhere does anyone know. I will call FT to see what was used
Thanks for any help
Johnh
Not sure on his coach but most headlight switches have to have the knob pulled out until it stops then push a spring loaded button on the side of the switch and the knob comes out the rest of the way to allow the bezel to be removed and the switched pushed into the dash for removal. And most just have the harness plug on the switch.
Also, disconnect the batteries just to avoid shocking experiences. The electricity won't be the problem. The problem is what your head will find when you jump suddenly.
C man. There is a spring loaded pin under the body of unit so will try that. I have never worked on one before hence the question. Are these easy to take apart and see what is possibly wrong?
I guess you just unplug the moulded harness to seperate from mechanical part.
Johnh
They are not made to be serviceable but you can bend the tangs and open it up on the majority of them. Also usually can be matched at a big name parts store.
Parts store, such as?
Johnh
Napa or Lordco will have a headlight switch that should match.
Probably one of the brass contacts have come loose and migrated to power up lights. I usually couldnt get them to reassemble and work without replacing some parts. IE New switch. If its just the running lights and headlights should be able to get almost anything semi close to work perfectly
Amazon.com: AMNEN Universal Headlight Switch/Push-Pull Switch 2 Positions... (https://www.amazon.com/AMNEN-Universal-Headlight-Push-Pull-Positions/dp/B099J8J9FH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=J4CMYAR4GB8V&keywords=headlight+switch+universal&qid=1647724126&sprefix=Headlight+switch+%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3)
Amazon.com: Painless Performance 80151 Headlight Switch with Dimmer,... (https://www.amazon.com/Painless-80151-Headlight-Aluminum-Control/dp/B00062Z5SO/ref=sr_1_9?crid=J4CMYAR4GB8V&keywords=headlight+switch+universal&qid=1647724126&sprefix=Headlight+switch+%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-9)
$28 with dimmer
Many times it will be a production car item Ford, GM or Chrysler. Look for a part number on it.
Thanks all for help. I got it off but no make or part#,
but did cross it on Amazon.ca so have ordered it and will be here mid week for $23 cndn
Johnh
Installed the new switch and no change with problem.
Could not find the issue so emailed Peter Fleming as had been texting him on the alternator issue. Peter suggested switching tge ICC switch on and off as it may have stuck in the on position. Would not believe it but that was the cause of back feed to lights. All well and thank goodness for members like him who have shown many times their knowledge of circuits etc etc. Than you Peter, again.
Johnh