I have read a few thread on here , this one looks closest to what I want to do Another slow water leak (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22279.msg169121#msg169121)
Photos show my setup. The rock is where I plan on cutting. As I think about this though, has anyone put on a ball valve to close the overflow tube? My thought is if you are driving, to have it closed so nothing would come out on a turn. This would be in addition to rerouting the hose and running it down.
Any other better ideas before it undergoes surgery?
I don't think I would. The vent is there for a reason. Where would the water/air go if you forget to open it and fill the tank? You could try to make the top of the drain hose loop higher by routing up into the coach and back down, but I wouldn't.
Rich
If the valve was accidentally left in the closed position....🙄 it could and probably would rupture the tank when filing.
Not worth the chance.
Keep the area in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels sealed from water intrusion.
Then drive the wheels off of it! 😎
Thanks, I will just do the link above. It's the easiest. Still trying to figure out out how to best add a direct fill, not all of the solutions I have seen here I like.
Why not just add a T to the overflow line when you're extending it? Then you can run the direct fill to anywhere you want.
I did just that... Fresh Water Overflow Vent Project (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18456.msg126770#msg126770)
My reasoning is that being a bit of a prepper, I want to be able to carry all the fresh water I can without losing some every time I made a left turn.
You are using the drain/vent line as a fill too? Hadn't thought of that. Has anyone done this? The only concern is that the vent is on the other side of the coach, so I would watch it from one side then walk around to shut it off.
Agree with Don. Routing the tank overflow/vent through an anti-siphon valve (common on boats) in the potable water vent line, whether purchased or made is a good idea if you do much dry camping and want to be able to travel with a 100% full tank.
I am having trouble with that concept as well. Vent= fill????
I haven't done the overflow mod yet, so I'm just spit balling. If one were to do it, you'd need to make sure that there's sufficient room for overflow to make its way back out of the tubing once the tank is full.
The air has to go somewhere... and you would need check valve on the upstream side to keep from blowing it right through the vent. I don't think that is a viable solution.
Don
Our 1989 GV has the fresh water tank between the front seats and the overflow tube is on the forward side of the dash wall (I know--some description :)) ) so I elevated the top of the overflow tube loop and made a small vent opening on the top of the tube so water wouldn't siphon out. Probably wasn't necessary but I didn't know how far the overflow hose went into the tank. I also extended the outlet end of the tube down below the passenger side fender strut while also adding some nylon screening on the end to keep bugs out.
Also, I forgot to add that I plumbed a 12V water pump(with switch) and clear "milkhouse" 3/4" tubing into the top of the overflow tube so I could replenish my fresh water supply from 6 gallon jugs and not have to break camp in order to get fresh water.
As anyone who has owned a GV with the horizontal water hose hookup in the driver's side engine compartment knows, filling back there from a jug is a real PITA. I just set the 6 gallon jug on the back end of our Vue and insert the suction end of my 12V pump and turn on the switch. Draw the water out, switch jugs, repeat. No standing and holding 6x8# (per gallon) = 48# of water until it runs out of the jug.
I'm lazy, not stupid!! :))
Here's a pic of the ball valve that I installed.
We used to camp in a spot 1 mile from the water supply with an uphill left turn. I would frequently loose a bunch of water on that left turn so installed a gate valve. Rarely do I have it 100% closed unless in that scenario. But I can if needed. And then maybe 95% closed and loose a bunch less water.
Plus I note the steering wheel with a tag cause it's not something I do regularly.
Perhaps overkill, but a normally open solenoid that's powered by the ignition would be a pretty slick way to close the overflow while you're driving and automatically open it when you park.
Or a normally closed solenoid that opens with the fill valve.
Not sure about the ignition closed drain tube. I've heard of altitude causing BIG problems with a prtapotty that was sealed while gaining a bunch of altitude.
A normally OPEN would be more bomb-proof.
But, neither would be KISS theory (my preference). I'll stick with "Manuel"
Good point. Better add a pressure switch on the tank to disengage the solenoid in that scenario.
Joking aside, I don't pay attention enough to trust myself with a valve of any sort and plan to leave the overflow wide open. If we needed to go for more than two weeks we'd just pick up a bladder + 12v pump and refill the coach with the Jeep: Amazon.com : Water Storage Tank - Bladder - Bag - AQUATANK2 Stores Water For... (https://www.amazon.com/AQUATANK2-Water-Storage-Bladder-Gallon/dp/B009ONFDEM) .
Not sure if this would apply, but here is something I experienced that might.
I filled the plastic gas tank on my lawn tractor with gas I had just gotten from the gas station. I remarked to the DW how cold the container was, so much so that it started sweating.
I filled the tractor tank right to the top and then put it in our shed. This was during a hot summer day.
The next day I went out to the shed, opened the doors and smelled gas. Managed to track it down. The plastic tank on the tractor had burst!
I believe there is a reason for having a vent, in addition to allowing water to flow out when needed.
Put cold, cold water in the plastic tank and then subject it to very warm ambient temps and you will get thermal expansion of the water, and "all that water" might expand enough to cause your tank to spring a leak.
My $0.02 worth.