Being in Texas, I want to keep the coach from getting hot inside during the summer. I prefer not to run the AC units for this. What are people doing to keep their coach from sweltering? I do not have a RV carport for it yet, so assume it will be outside. Will the fans/fantastic vent be enough? Or a portable AC that you have to vent from a window?
Jason,
Need more information:
In dry or humid area?
Access to shore power?
Light colored coach. Awnings out. Windows open. Exhaust fans on low. Shaded parking, preferably in Upper Michigan or Upper Minnesota by the Canadian border, in the woods. >:D
That's what i was thinking. 👍👍
Careful, you will have a HERD show up at your door step.
Can you picture the Foretravel migration convoy?
Depends on your comfort level an location. We only run A/C when temperature get into the upper 90s when dry climate or lower if humid. But, most of our camping is off-grid dry camping. We've are not uncomfortable with fans. We run a large oscillating fan combined with a couple and a couple of smallish fans and/or the fantastic vent.
We really like these little fans for the windows: Amazon.com: BLACK+DECKER Mini Box Fan – Tabletop Quiet 9 Inch Desk Box Fans... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP6CY4G/?coliid=I2ZZ30Y0P0CYTJ&colid=KLDUZ2IOXE5Z&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) Keeps the air flowing and the coach cool enough for us.
We really like these little fans for the windows. Light weight, but they blow a lot of air.
Jason,
Being fellow TX residents, we also deal with the heat. When not on the road, our coach sits outside in our driveway unprotected from the sun. It is always plugged into 50A.
Our solution to summer heat is what you said you wish to avoid: we run one or both of the roof air conditioners as required. I keep them set on 75 degrees. I turn them on at mid-morning, before it gets too hot, and leave them running until late afternoon or early evening when I turn them off. Don't run them at night.
Note: One of the reasons we installed our residential PV system was to reduce our use of grid electric power. We have traditionally used more electric power then would be normal for our sized house. One of the reasons was the extra load of keeping the coach cooled in the summer and heated in the winter (we do not winterize). Now that we have an excess of solar power during the day, we can "waste" all the electric power we want since it won't cost us any additional $$$ out-of-pocket. However, I realize you have already ruled out putting in a PV system, so our solution is probably not workable for you.
Link below to a post (Reply #6) where Keith (WS6_Keith) mentioned using a plug-in portable A/C unit inside his coach in the summer months in Las Vegas. Perhaps he will chime in with more details on his solution.
Solar Question for Gurus (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44033.msg444985#msg444985)
We have 2 of these USB powered fans, very quiet, 4 speeds with QC USB port (higher power) otherwise just three. Long cord.
Amazon.com: XASLA 6'' USB Desk Fan, 4 Speeds Small Desk Fan, Ultra Quiet... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B098XJ8BRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Easy to set anywhere including on a cabinet edge,
Guys got your answer covered above . This is not going to be news for you but really get after your manager and get some kind of roof over it. I understand pal, one thing at a time. Good luck
Haven't got a cover for mine yet either, although I poured the concrete pad it sits on, so I'm making progress. In the Vegas heat, I set the roof A/C's at 88 in the back and 90 in the front. I don't want to run them too hard and I figure 90 is OK...nothing is going to melt at 90. I keep the solar shades and black outs down on all windows.
I also run a 14k BTU portable AC in the living room. All slides in to minimize area. I ran the exhaust duct to the small passenger side window that opens and tape it in place between trips. I have been thinking about this though, and tomorrow I am going to see about constructing something that I can tie the hose into that I can attach to the bottom of the roof fantastic fan vents, so I don't have to keep taping and removing from the window. This should make setup a little quicker. I have also thought about bringing the AC with me by storing it in the shower while traveling, to give us backup to the roof AC's, and to make them have to work less in the desert heat when it's 110+.
Keith,
How do you handle the condensate produced by the portable A/C unit? Does it have a catch pan you need to drain?
Yes, it is always hooked to 50A. I am in Austin, so mid humidity??? It's not Houston but not Odessa, so somewhere in the middle, leaning on the drier side I'd say. But it does get hot here.
Ugh. Don't get me started. Yes, one thing at a time, and there are a lot of things! Labor issues. I have asked my builder's main metal guy 3 times and who did my barndo, we've gone over size and my wants, but he has never got back to me. And the secondary one has never called me after 2 reminders. It must be nice to be able to ignore 4-5 figure jobs. I get it, why spend time doing that when you can make 6 figures. But it is very frustrating when I have money ready to spend. I want it to look nice and match the barndo we built. I am going to start calling some other places next week. On a side note, I did get a win yesterday, I replaced my old Alpine with a Sony. The Alpine was a 2002 model, not even an Aux outlet! Now I can drive with Spotify via BT!!
And to clarify, this is for when the coach is not in use. I think some understood that but wanted to restate that. Like Keith, I don't want to use the roof ACs for fear of wearing them out, they are pricier as we all know. Having the temp at 90 when not in use would be fine, I just don't want triple digits. It's the antithesis of antifreeze :0
Keith, I am interested in what you have done. I would like to know the answer Chuck posted regarding condensate as well as what you fab up this weekend, that looks like a good solution.
Chuck, I did call and talk to a solar company, I am going to setup a detailed call and have them give me the sales spiel and see what the ROI/numbers are. But he did acknowledge that my utility company is not solar friendly, will keep you posted on that. It would only work with batteries that I can use to offset, so I never pull. I digresss....
Thanks all, enjoy the weekend.
For a while I had bubble wrap sheets with snap mounting on the inside of our coach windows.
One day I touched the glass behind the bubble wrap and was amazed at how hot the glass was.
No more bubble wrap on the inside, even tho it kept the inside temps way down.
I still have the bubble wrap with snaps for each window and now I am thinking about mounting them on the outside of the windows.
Haven't yet because I am shying away from putting holes on the outside walls for the snaps.
Maybe magnets?
Chocolate begins to melt between 80 and 90.
I have a cousin in the candy business and they won't order in the summer for that reason.
Just sayin. The coach shouldn't warm up too much.
Duh! Yup, I KNOW I am nuts!! Here it is 4:10 AM and I woke up with a way to mount aluminized bubble wrap on the outside of the windows on our coach (and others that have the window awnings that are pulled open with a strap.
Here is what one window will need:
1. Aluminized bubble wrap at least as wide as the distance from the bottom window seal edge all the way up to about a 1/2" below the aluminum cover hinge. Each window width a length of aluminized bubble wrap the horizontal length of the window PLUS the seal width on each end of the window.
2. Velcro--Two pieces Hooks feature-- one for up under each end of the awning, but stuck on the coach wall about 2-3" long x 1" wide max. NOT adhesive backed. Two pieces Loops feature.
3.Two of those 1/4" diameter fiberglass rods that are used to mark driveways, etc.
4. SHOE GOO--One tube.
5. One ball bungee cord.
OK, here is what you do:
Open the awning and hook the strap
Take a straight edge, put it against the window seal and slide it up to the awning metal. Lightly mark up under the awning ( a piece of masking tape will do) and this is where the Velcro will go, using the SHOE GOO to adhere the Velcro to the coach wall.
Now, glue the opposing Velcro strips in place on the upper edge of the bubble wrap to match the width you put the pieces on the coach wall. Use SHOE GOO.
Next, glue a fiberglass rod on the opposite side of the Velcro pads on the bubble wrap Use SHOE GOO.
Glue the other rod about 1" above the opposing edge (or what will be the bubble wrap edge near the awning strap hook) Use SHOE GOO.
After all the SHOE GOO adhesive has set, put the bubble wrap "assembly" up in place. The Velcro pads and fiberglass rod are just to assist in positioning the bubble wrap assembly until you close the awning.
Close the awning. This will help hold the bubble wrap in place.
Now, cut a small hole just big enough to take the bungee cord--directly above the awning strap hook.
Adjust the bungee strap to put a little pull down tension on the bubble wrap assembly.
DONE!!!!!!!!!
Why did I specify SHOE GOO?? The sun's heat will cause the adhesive on regular adhesive backed Velcro to melt and smear.
Result of doing window covers this way? Quick, cheap, easy to put on and take off, no visible sun fading marks from the Texas sun, air can still get behind the bubble wrap, no visible mountings.
You will still be able to open the sliding window from inside your coach.
Window coverings made out of Phifertex or others will help to reduce the heat load through the glass and allow you to see outside.
Outside heat transfers to inside and makes it hotter. Unless you run an air conditioner, it's gonna be hot
Jason/Chuck, our average humidity out here in the desert is about 8%, so even when I have checked it, it's bone dry. If the unit runs for 12 hrs a day, there isn't much humidity to make water, and then there is 12hrs for it to evaporate before the AC comes back on again. In a more humid environment, you'd probably have to check/dump it more often.
On this AC, there is an internal tray and a screw on cap at the back that holds in a rubber plug. To drain, you remove that and then lean the AC over. I suppose if it were full, the water would come out without leaning over though. If I were worried about it and needed to leave it for a while, I'd position the AC so the dump faces the entry stairs, open it and put a hose on the outlet, and run it to a jug on one of the stairs so that it can dump as needed.
Ceramic window tint on all your windows especially your windshield. Stops 99% of the UV rays from heating it up and cooking the interior. They are almost clear. I have an on a suburban and a Dodge truck and every day I'm amazed how much cooler it is. I can't wait to learn how to apply the stuff to do the motorhome so I can afford to do it.
75%VLT Light Blue Car Tint Window Film Solar Tint 99% UV Proof Nano Ceramic... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/323890458650?hash=item4b6960301a:g:H64AAOSwEDxdLYZR)
Scott
Have you checked into a swamp cooler or is it to humid there for it to do any good?
I looked at this today and decided I'll try a piece of ABS plastic with some foam around the edges to seal it into the vent fan opening. The ID of the vent fan is 13-1/4", so I bought a 12" x 12" sheet of ABS off Amazon, and some 2" wide, 1" thick adhesive backed foam. I'll round the corners then stick the foam around the edges. That should seal it into the vent opening. Next I'll drill a 5-3/4" hole for the hose adapter and connect that up.
Should make for a quick and easy install when I want to...better than taping the window adapter in. If the weight of the hose is too much for the foam to hold in place, I'll add some 3M dual-lock (heavy duty plastic velcro) to the bottom of the fan face and top of the ABS sheet to help secure it. Everything is supposed to be delivered Monday. I'll post pics next week once I get it done.
It's usually dry heat in AZ and I get by most of the summer with a swamp cooler like this...
The Home Depot Logo (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hessaire-1-300-CFM-2-Speed-Portable-Evaporative-Cooler-Swamp-Cooler-for-500-sq-ft-in-Green-MC18V/312591867)
Keith, how did this go? I purchased an AC and am considering doing the same with ABS. Have any photos of yours?
Thanks.
I gave this a try by the issue was keeping the abs in the opening with the weight of the hose hanging on it. Just foam stuffed around the edges is not strong enough. I'd have to come up with another way of holding the piece in the opening and just didn't bother...the A/C is still in the living area behind the passenger seat and exhausts out the passenger side window.
It's 113* in Vegas today. I've got the portable set for 78 and it runs full time to keep the temps down as much as possible and get ahead of the daytime heat. The roof units still have to run some...I have them set at 90* - the highest the t-stat will go.
Escaped a close one today. I asked my youngest to go turn off my new-1-week-old AC in the coach and she comes back with these photos. Thank God it was not worse. She said she pulled the cord out and it was crackling with electricity, had to tell her to turn the switch off first. I have the extended warranty so I will get a replacement or return it. I don't have my manuals nearby but what amp breakers are on the 120V outlets? The AC is 13A you can see in the photo, and I assumed it was 15-20A.
They make appliance rated extension cords. Single good socket
Amazon.com: KUNCAN Appliance Power Extension Cord - 3 Prong Flat Wire SPT-3... (https://www.amazon.com/KUNCAN-Appliance-Power-Extension-Cord/dp/B0B8HC363M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=U9J8MVXMBNNY&keywords=appliance+extension+cord&qid=1689135106&sprefix=Appli%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)
I've got an extension cord like that in my garage and now I know what it's for. Thanks Scott
It's 115 in Mohave Valley, AZ today and it will be even hotter for the next 10 days. Forecast is for 123 on Saturday. I'm still using a Hessaire swamp cooler during the day but use the AC at night. The south side of my coach is shaded and I get tree shade from about 2:30 PM on so right now is the hottest part of the day for me.
When it gets this hot, I put up a makeshift curtain using a wooden curtain rod and my sleeping bag to close off the front. I have a cover for the windshield, passenger and driver's windows but it still gets brutally hot up there.
In the evening I use the rear AC to cool off the bedroom and then switch to the front AC just before I go to bed. I'll get up and shut it off if the outside temperature drops below 80 but that probably won't be the case for the next month.
Sidenote: There are a lot of hummingbirds here and I have a feeder on both sides of my RV. The birds love me.
Returned the other to Home Depot the other day, no issues with the return. The new AC showed up today from Walmart, I went with a larger one, a TCL brand. They had the option to get another year warranty, so now it's 4 all for about the same price as the first. So larger and longer warranty for same dollar. The first one cooled OK, but this one I can tell is stronger and cools better. I plugged it into the wall so hopefully it will work without error. Time will tell...
Saw 118 in the suburban today south of Vegas. Too Hot. The ceramic window tint helps a bunch. I would look into cutting one inch thick polystyrene foam to fit windows. I dont know how you survive in the coach. Seems every year it's a little bit harder. I had to fight the local building department because I wanted 5700 square feet of awnings around the house and shop. It does make a difference. They are priceless this time of the year.
Scott
Yes too hot...112 @ 8:30 pm in Sun City West....119 today
I use Reflectix Duct Wrap when I'm parked both winter and summer. It is easy to cut and fit
and I use two pieces and it is really easy to put up and take down. It makes a huge difference
in the winter to keep the cold out and the summer to keep the heat out.