With the duo therm thermostat turned off, and the Aqua hot turned on, on diesel, will the basement heat, fan and exchanger work? I noticed yesterday when I ran the Aqua hot that the hoses to the basement exchanger were hot but did not notice if the fan came on. The temp in the basement was set to 0 ( off)
If you are talking about the Duo therm in the bathroom being off.
Yes
When on diesel the center loop pump runs thus causing the heating you found. The basement heat relies in the thermostat in the basement to turn on the fans for those heat exchangers.
Mike
Yes, the basement has its own thermostat - usually just a knob in the basement bay.
Jim 2003 U320
Perfect..I thought the coach duo therm dual zone thermostat had to actually be turned on to have the basement heat active
Thanks
That thermostat (one in the bathroom) only has to do with heat in the bathroom.
Mike
Yes I have the bathroom and the front thermostat turned off
All answers are correct. Ain't it great when bunches of owners know how stuff works
Yes and it certainly is many learning moments for those of us (me!!) that don't quite know enough!!
Hi Rudy
So after all that, and flushing my system with vinegar and the camco spring fresh I filled the water tank about 1/3 and then tried the Water and AH system. The AH was running on diesel and has been running for a complete cycle and is still on. I turned on the cold water and had good pressure, but there was "foam" ( see pic) coming out with the water and the water pump keeps cycling on and off. When I turned on the hot water only a trickle came out and eventually got hot. I took a pic of the valve underneath and turned the valve to allow hot and cold water and turned the valve back to where it had been. Question is. Why VERY little water pressure from the hot side??
Of course I need help on this.....just learning
Pics
Pic of hot water at bathroom sink on full
Pic at main sink on full hot with water pump on
Peter,
You may have the screen in the spigot stopped up with yuck from the acid wash.
How much green vinegar came out of the spigot while flushing?
Mike
Not much I was surprised. I cleaned the bathroom screen and still get foam// water on cold. And a trickle with no foam in hot. Now I have noticed the water not getting that hot. Just a question... do I have to have my main thermostat on for this to work. I know I ask the same question about the basement heat but darn can't figure this out. May there is a blockage. My AH has been coming on no problem...
If you are talking about the thermostat that controls the heat inside the coach it has no bearing on what the A/H does to the water system.
You may have a mixing valve problem
Hope Rudy chimes in with other troubleshooting ideas
Mike
I just pulled the screens off the bathroom and shower head and found some dirt/sand sediment in each. Is it possible that the water pump could have some in it , although it runs, albeit cycling on and off
All hot water goes through the AH heater and then to the several faucets. If poor flow at all hot water faucets, heater problem. If poor flow at one faucet, problem at that faucet.
Poor flow all faucets. Suggestions. ? The heater turns on no issues. It is running right now. Is it possible to have a flag for me cleaning the system in the hot water flow side??
When I turn on the hot water. Great pressure at first and then dies off really quickly with low pressure and Luke warm water. See pic
Great water pressure on cold water
Rudy or the others can confirm, but if low flow coming out of the AH hot side, I'd probably start with a reverse rinse. Connect a hose from city water to the wet bay spigot since it is threaded. Open the HOT drain at the AH. Turn on city water and open the hot valve at the wet bay. This should put fresh city water and pressure through the hot side, exiting at the hot drain at the AH.
Anyone think there's an issue with this?
What exactly do you mean wet bay spiget at the wet bay? Do you mean my hose reel?
And the hot valve at the hot bay? My hot line is on at the manibloc. Same thing ?
In my wet bay, I have a faucet. The spigot is threaded, probably for a screen, but could be connected to a hose with an adapter.
There is a hot side drain in front of my AH.
Keith is correct. Water flush the fresh water coil by using the cold and hot water connections at the bulkhead of the heater.
I do not have that spiget as the PO changed the tap. Any other suggestions to attach a hose to?
Attached pic
Something like this should work: Anderson Metals - 07046-0812 Brass Garden Hose Swivel Fitting, Connector,... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZB9C8KMEZEPHKH159EHJ)
Insert into the 1/2" pex drains at the bulkhead and attach garden hose
Look at Keith's picture of the heater. Locate the red and white pex pipes on your heater. Attach flush hoses there. These pipes are on the bulkhead of your heater in the center of your coach.
Ok will take a look....
I took your advice and decided to "cook" the vinegar in the aqua hot, Rudy, and turned on the electric to do this. I am plugged in to a 15 amp outlet. Nothing else is on. The power watch meter indicated a bit over 110 volts I checked it a while later and it did not seem to be on. I turned it off and tried the diesel and I could hear it come on and then it quit. I then turned it off. Did I pop the breaker under the drivers side??
Will the diesel fire up after I reset that breaker? All questions I am thinking about as it gets dark here and I am done for the day....
Diesel burner and electric element are two separate systems on your heater. Neither affects the operation of the other except that heat from one can satisfy the control thermostat of the other cycling both heat sources off.
Both my pex drains are white coming out of the AH. Do I attached the city water to a particular pex jose (cold or hot) or will either work. After I attach city water do I leave the other drain open to flush the AH?
From what Rudy is saying, you would want to connect to the hot loop there.
My thought would be to push water from an outlet back through the AH and OUT the drains. Going into the hot drain just continues to push debris through the system, no?
When flushing the freshwater loop by connecting at the cold water in and hot water out at the heater bulkhead, the drains and the rest of the fresh water system is bypassed. If both pex pipes are the same color, hook them back up in the same places.
Hooked up at the bukhead allows flushing one way and then the other. 150 lbs shop air will not hurt either if available.
If your hot and cold drains, which are located at the outside edge of the coach, go straight through to the heater inlet and outlet, connect your pressure water there and open the other drain. Then connect to the other drain and flush in the other direction. Repeat several times.
Water flushing addresses sediment build up. More pressure the better. Cooking with vinegar address mineral buildup
Ok so I will buy the piece that WS6 recommended and then flush each one out separately. I will leave the outlet open at the AH drain that I am not hooked up to and then when flushed will reverse the hookup and repeat. I will leave the taps closed as well as the drains at the water pump. I am not sure if I can use air or not
I hope that is what you mean!!?
Just remarking...removed the vinegar I put in last night and attached the city water to flush the rest out vinegar is low out but the issues still remains..almost zero hot water ( diesel has been running for an couple of hours) I am going to get that price suggested by WS6. And will start by flushing the cold line. I presume I should drain the hot and cold at the AH first???!
Also should the AH be on while I do this procedure?
Attach a re pics showing the drain line coming into the AH and the pex going vertical with a valve. My guess is I leave the valve as is
Rudy may have some suggestions for you on this, but when I had to replace the pressure relief valve in my AH, I did mark the tempering valve, then turn it all the way one way, then all the way the other way and then reset it. I do believe I had better flow and more consistent hot after that.
My tempering valve is located quite deep in and hard to reach and is opposite me. ( I can se the rotation indicator with a mirror) It is set almost all the way counterclockwise which means a high HOT water mix. I can turn it clockwise all the way and then back but I do not know where exactly to set it.
Put a thermometer under the hot water flow in the bathroom and after you are sure it is hot set the temp for around 110 Deg. I have mine set for 120 deg. to need less hot water while taking a shower.
Water scale and mineral buildup in the plumbing pipes are one of the most prevalent causes of poor hot water pressure. When the deposit becomes too large, it might block water flow, lowering water pressure. In certain circumstances, the accumulation is limited to the water heater. If a reverse rinse does not helps. You checked the connection with an adapter and it's okay. Probably the problem is the heater itself. If you'll decide to change it, check here (https://bathroomer.org/best-hybrid-water-heater/).
The problem can be the filter. Filters are installed on the entrance and exit of some hot water systems. They gradually accumulate additional silt. A clogged filter, which is simple to replace or clean, is one of the most prevalent hot water problems.