How do you remove the generator from the coach. It slides out half way to the stop position for servicing. I need to slide it out all the way onto some blocks and 4X4's. Plans are to reinsulate the generator compartment this weekend.
1) unwire the feed to the coach (from control box)
2) unplug the control wire harness
3) disconnect the fuel lines
4) disconnect the starter 12v cable
5) remove the exhaust manifold flange?? Sure hope the bolts remove easily. 🙄
6) disconnect the bonding strap (remove bolt)
7) remove the strap securing the flexible 3/4" conduit.
Now how to remove the slide stops? (nothing to remove....... lift up and pull hard) ;D
EDIT;
Any tips on changing the end bearing? Ours is the "Exciter Type" ....... Special tools needed?
I might as well change it now as its easily accessible.
Thanks ..........
My experience has been to remove the bolt that goes through the roller. One on each side, then those rollers will pull out with the tray.
Make sure that you have good, stable support for it. That whole assembly is HEAVY and expensive. You don't want it to get part way out and start to fall.
Used a front end loader and a nylon strap to pull and lift at the same time.
Thanks for the replies.
It's out and on cinder blocks, 4X4 PT's and 2x6's with 1-1/4 " rigid pipe rollers underneath. Didn't need to remove any bolts or rollers, rolled out to the stops, then lifted the front by hand and pulled outward. It removes like a kitchen drawer .... just a LOT heavier. The stops hit the top roller so if you lift up in the slide handle and pull outward, the back drops down so the stops clear the top roller (two of us to do this) and have a sturdy and solid support below, it was easy to roll on the 1-1/4" pipes.
Exhaust flange removed easily (very surprised) after soaking a couple hours with PB Blaster. 😁
Flexible conduit strap, bonding strap and generator starter cable were difficult to access on the back side but doable.
Now to remove the old sound deadener. ☹️
Cinder blocks a NONO....! unless they are topped by 3/4 ply or something similar to spread the load
4 x 4 PT x 4' long across 2 ( each side) 4 total.
2 x 6 PT boards on top of them to run the pipes on.
Looks like a mini railroad.
WHERE are the pics Justin :)
Should be able to upload some tomorrow. 👍
We used my Harley floor jack. Rolled it on plywood, cause of being on gravel.
Finished the generator compartment cleaning and installation of the new sound deadener today. Removing the old adhesive left from the old insulation was very time consuming. But......it's done. Bought two sheets of Boom Mat by Design Engineering, self adhesive backing with 3/4' foam and a foil lined face. I used this on the top, back and around the radiator, on the small section behind the front wheel, I used two layers of some adhesive back foam that I had on hand for sound deadening automotive firewalls and floorboards. Can't recall right now where I purchased it but it's 3/8' thick and reasonably dense material.
Hey Bob.............. here are a few pics.....
Here are a few pics of the finished installation.
Forgot to mention....... we removed the generator slide frame to clean the bottom of the compartment, after cleaning with mineral spirits and spic&span............ decided to paint it flat black. ::)
The project for next weekend ..............
Replace the dampener mounts and the generator end bearing.
Fishing for advice on changing the bearing if anyone has done this themselves. Looks like I may have to remove the exciter coils. :help:
I can "field strip" this thing but........ hope that isn't necessary cause I would really like for it to work again when I'm done. :D
Yes you have to remove the exciter coils, that's the trickiest part of the whole job.
Justin,
This may help you out
tech bearing replacement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=39397.msg387690#msg387690)
Mike
What type / size bearing puller is needed for this job?
I used a 2 jaw puller about 6 inches across, that's what I had but what ever you have that
will work should do. It wasn't too hard to get off.
Well I'm going to have total generator compartment envy....
If I wasn't hip deep in installing a new 4 camera system id feel even worse.
Trying to get her ready for Montana trip.
Waiting on the dampeners and bearing to arrive. 👍
Just curious, how many hrs on the gen set?
hours are 2650........... plus or minus a few, I should know exactly....... but...... ::)
Correct me if I'm approaching this wrong.......
1. Remove two ring terminals connecting the exciter rotating coils, they stay with shaft.
2. Remove the bolt and washer from the center shaft.
3. Remove the exciter rotating coils from the shaft..... puller required?
4. Remove the four allen head bolts securing the exciter stator,........ swing it out of the way.....leaving it's wiring connected.
5. Bearing should be accessible at this point, remove bearing with puller.
Hours on the generator isn't what takes the bearings out, it's the generator banging
down the road with generator not tuning is what takes out the bearings.
Make sure you place bolt screwed back into generator shaft. If not puller can damage threads at beginning of shaft.
When you replace bearing. You will use a large socket that fits inner bearing race. Gentle but firm taps to place bearing back in proper position.
Check any connection of wires and the connector that is attached. Looking for damaged wires, corrosion, loose fittings.
Do same inside control box. Do not assume a connection is good. Touch it! Look.
On the mounts. Replace any and all bolts that have wear.
Hoses look, replace clamps.
Anti seze and lock tight in proper places.
Great time to assess condition of exhaust system, pipe and hangers.
If it vibrates, add sound deading material. Will remove vibrations. Make like its a submarine
Don't forget to lube latches, cables for door. Bolts that hold wheels,
Starting cables for generator. Coming from house to generator. Check as above.
So it's better to run the gen when traveling than not? Come summer, I'll have to run it to keep the A/C on anyway, but I thought I read the opposite...that running the generator while banging down the road was the cause of the bearing issues.
I don't worry about it. I run the generator when needed. The first bearings lasted 20
years, I think the new ones will outlast me.
The generator box new insulation/sound dampening is completed
The new end bearing is installed, generator is back together, all connections made, (wiring, exhaust, etc.)
New voltage regulator installed. (Basler AVC63-4)
New Plateform mounts installed (Lord-283P-155)
Test ran yesterday and all is good............ Happy Camper that all went well........ ^.^d
Nice job 👍
The mount on the engine end, backside was deteriorated and soft, cracked, its directly below the engine slobber tube and the oil deposited from the tube contributed to its demise and worse condition than the other three. As I stated in another post about the generator overheating issue that I had a couple years ago, the oily mist from the slobber tube was drawn into and forced thru the radiator by the fan. When I removed the radiator for an overhaul it was caked with oily dirt/dust all around the outer fins not directly in front of the fan. Only about 1/2 of the radiator had good airflow thru it.
The slobber tube is now routed below the floor of the box thru a 1" pvc fitting. No more oily deposits allowed to get sucked in and blown thru the radiator.
^.^d .