Okay. Haven't done this one before. The oil had just been changed when I bought it. Apparently I have to pull the genny out on the rack to clear the fabric floor to be able to drain it? What all does this entail?
Any tips would be appreciated. It's the 10,000 watt Kubota 4 cylinder. Thanks
There is a bolt on each side of the slide rain 1/2 inch I think. On my generator all I have
to do is remove them and then pull the generator out.
"Regular oil changes will keep your generator alive for a longer time.
Also, checking and maintaining the oil levels is the most important way to service your generator (https://generatorpick.com/best-predator-generator/). When power shortages necessitate running the generator for lengthy periods of time, oil levels should be checked regularly. To do so, switch the generator off and check the oil level as directed in the owner's handbook. If the oil level is low, add the specified type of oil. Then, to re-start the generator, follow the on-screen directions.
The final thing you should know about oil maintenance is when to change the oil and filter. This improves the performance of your generator's engine and assures high-quality operation."
On my 2000 and 2003 the generator did not have to be pulled out to change the oil. The drain plug is accessible from the bottom and the oil filter and fill hole are in the front. Both fuel filters are accessible also without pulling it too...
Keith
Hdff
On my 98 u320 with the PT10 I see one oil filter on the front and one fuel filter on the front. Is there another fuel filter I am missing seeing?
Should be one mounted on the frame under the coach by the steps.
Peter,
On your '98 you have a filter (pre filter) where the fuel line comes in from the tank and hooks to the bracket on the generator frame just before the fuel pump. Yours may have been removed by a PO as this one only got pieces the size of river sand and larger.
Mike
Mine is enclosed underneath, so you must pull the generator out to drain the oil. It looks like I have to disconnect the exhaust to pull it forward enough to drain the oil? Manual says every 100 hours to change it
Look underneath for some bolts holding up the bottom cover. I found mine while doing the steering gear.
On my 99 the bottom cover is hard rubber with metal framing held up by four bolts, remove three, loosen one and swivel the cover out of the way enough to drain the oil.
On my 1996 there is no drop down panel underneath. It has to slide out but I will just warm it up and use my boat vacuum tank from the dipstick hole. Way easier and efficient enough. It appears to be quite a procedure to get the genny out on the slide. Exhaust, water hose, disconnect, etc. I'll post how it goes on the suction method. One thing is, it's 15-40, would it be better to not warm it up as it may become 40weight and thicker. It's 80 degrees anyway in my shop.
Thanks
Multi weight oil does not thicken. the numbers indicate how much it doesn't thin out.
Okay. Thanks craneman
May have a difference of opionion here but part of the process of warming up before a oil change is for any dust,dirt,etc to be suspended in the oil and drain out.
Makes sense John 44
Okay. Got the genny hot today and used my boat vacuum pump to pull the old oil out thru the dipstick hole. changed the oil filter and refilled thru the dipstick hole, 5/8 with a skinny funnel. Beats pulling the exhaust apart to slide the genny out. One thing I didn't understand in the owners manual for the 10K genny, says 5-30 oil. Why? I put 15-40 Rotella semi synthetic in it
Unless the generator or exhaust has been modified a '96 age coach generator will slide out without removing the exhaust.
Mike
Why did you go against mfgr. specifications for oil weight?
Are you 100% sure you got all the oil out,my understanding of the vacuum method is to hold the oil in the pan until you get the drain plug completely off and a bucket under the oil pan,then turn the vacuum off and let it drain and /or install a Fumoto valve at this time.
So by leaving say 5% of the dirtiest oil in your engine really doesn't make good sense to me. Yes it sounds easier but yet not compleat. The drain plug just isn't that big of a deal. In your boat. It makes more sense in a small inboard outdrive with no access, but I put a remote drain hose on the boat to suck out all the oil from the drain point. Obviously do what makes you happy. Fomoto drain and a hose would be more efficient. IMO
Scott
Warm the engine to op temps. Clean the bottom primary filter on the electric fuel pump (Bendix type) or replace the small primary filter before the fuel pump. Check the belt for condition and tightness. Replace secondary fuel filter and oil filter following directions on filter. Drain oil completely. Follow recommendations from manf. I went to full synthetic.
Pierce
It is much easier to carry just one grade and type of oil on the coach. Same with Aqua-Hot coolant. The 40 part of 15/40 just means that it thins out the same as straight 40 does not get thick as straight 40.
Eh.
I assume the mfgr knows more than me.
But "whatever floats your boat"
No recommendation of a 5/30, 15/40 recommended in all but -14 deg. page 24
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0062/4072/files/PT-10_12KSIC_OM.pdf?2228
Thanks all. 15-40 diesel is fine and on mine, you must disconnect the exhaust to pull out and getting it apart is tuff. This method works on hundreds of boats every year. Not worried and the new oil is clean after running it . Again, thanks for the opinions.