Today my chassis batteries were down to 11.5 v. After being off the charger and driven around locally getting service done. Alternator voltage at pos/neg post reads 15.5v. The voltage isn't getting to the batteries. Is there something online between alternator and batteries that would cause this problem.? All cables are right.
Sure, you have a diode-based BATTERY ISOLATOR.
Check between good ground and the middle lug (directly from battery B+) and then to the two outer lugs (one to each battery bank).
They DO fail.
I'm with Brett check the isolator, I've had one fail.
In your Owner Manual set there should be a B-2126 Automotive Wiring Diagram. Referring to this diagram is helpful when trouble shooting the 12 volt system. Copy below (from our excellent Forum library).
Good chance that you can bypass the isolater and connect the bat cables on the same stud to get you down the road.
Unhook when landed
So where exactly is this battery isolator? Part number replacement?
Most are on the front bulkhead of the engine compartment. Raise the bed to access.
PLEASE use your voltmeter to diagnose before spending $$ on what may/may not be the problem.
OEM location on a '97 was just inside the door behind the left rear tires mounted on the frame rail. Some owners have relocated them to where Brett as mentioned.
Mike
The isolator is fried. Burn marks, separation around the post.
If you wish to retain the stock factory configuration, the Victron Argo FET isolator is one excellent replacement to consider.
FET based (more efficient than diodes) and has alternator energize input in case you ever want to upgrade to a Delco alternator.
Amazon.com: Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolators 200-2AC (2 Batteries... (https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Argofet-200-2-Batteries/dp/B00NT9MTMQ)
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Argofet-Battery-Isolators-with-alternator-energize-input-EN.pdf