Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: Cpt_kludge on June 08, 2022, 07:02:46 pm
Title: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 08, 2022, 07:02:46 pm
My first big trip. Not going well :( did a stupid this morning and had to replace 2 tires on my RAV4. Got that squared away and got about 150mi south. Coming down the grade into weed CAI noticed the Temp going UP, coming down a grade it seemed odd so I pulled over. When trying to stop, as soon as I took my foot off the brake, the coach accelerated. Even after I stopped and put on the air brake, if it was in gear it wanted to creep. Put it in neutral, no accelerator, RPMs jumped to 2000. Foot on the break, normal Idle. Shut everything down and heard a whistling sound from the back. Opened the Engine hatch but could not find anything.. Sound stopped after a min.. let everything sit for about 10 min. Eng starts normally. Idles fine for a min then jumps to 2k rpm again. Started down the road. Temp started going up again in 6th. stepped down to 5th and ran at 55mph(2krpm) temp ran just above 220F but did not get higher.. Is this a cruise control issue? did I overheat the eng? The coolant temp light was on at about 250F There seems to be NO diesel Mech in the weed area:( Any help appreciated! Joe
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Bob & Sue on June 08, 2022, 07:28:03 pm
The spring came off our throttle linkage at the injector pump once. That raised the RPM some but not 2000. That was on an 8.3 though.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 08, 2022, 07:45:26 pm
The spring came off our throttle linkage at the injector pump once. That raised the RPM some but not 2000. That was on an 8.3 though.
I would think that the brake would not drop the RPM's to a normal idle :( Thanks.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: oldguy on June 08, 2022, 07:51:18 pm
If you have a King control, with the brake on the King will only give you 1/3 throttle. I would do as Robert said and check your return springs. I imagine you have a 8.3 Cummins.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on June 08, 2022, 08:15:10 pm
Your stupid thing was that you forgot to put the key in and in the accessory position. Right? I did that on our RAV4 but caught it after about 10 miles. Our steering locks about 2 degrees off straight ahead, enough to scrub the tires a bit.
Pierce
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on June 08, 2022, 08:37:09 pm
I had the cruise stick on ours a couple of times many years ago. The first time it happened when going up a small grade with the cruise set at 75. It stuck at wide open. Didn't know it until I noticed the speedo pass 80 on the other side of the hill. We were on I-8 in western AZ where it was pretty flat and straight. Stepping on the brake exhausts the air out of the Bendix cruise but when released the throttle would go back to WOT. Turning the engine off after holding the brake for a bit worked the first time. The other time turning it off didn't work. I remember fiddling with the cruise control and throttle on the front wall under the bed and then it was ok (maybe just coincidence). No overheating, though.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 08, 2022, 10:46:43 pm
Your stupid thing was that you forgot to put the key in and in the accessory position. Right? I did that on our RAV4 but caught it after about 10 miles. Our steering locks about 2 degrees off straight ahead, enough to scrub the tires a bit.
Pierce
No, LOL, Left the emergency brake on for 4mi of gravel road. Yup..........Stupid. $350 and 2 new tires later......... on the road! till this
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on June 08, 2022, 11:16:51 pm
Joe,
More details would help with long distance guesses on what is going on. What engine do you have? What type cruise control (Bendix or King)? Do you have a air throttle?
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Jason on June 09, 2022, 01:14:52 am
Start with the simple things.
Look at your pedal, does it move freely? Can it operate without sticking? Are you traveling with someone? If so, have them push the pedal and see what movement occurs on the engine, there should be something moving.
With the engine cooled down for 15 to 20 minutes at least, check your coolant level. Then start tracing the piping and see if there are signs of any leaks. You may also want to consider starting to source a thermostat. If the weather is warm though, you can pull your thermostat if you think that it is not working until you get to a place that has one.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on June 09, 2022, 06:49:50 am
More details would help with long distance guesses what is going on. What engine do you have? What type cruise control (Bendix or King)? Do you have a air throttle?
A 95 U240 would have come with a Cat 3116 with Bendix cruise and air throttle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on June 09, 2022, 08:57:50 am
A 95 U240 would have come with a Cat 3116 with Bendix cruise and air throttle.
Thanx Dave. I just ask in case something has been changed from the original factory configuration.
If trouble is suspected with the Bendix Cruise Control system, it can be disabled temporarily by pulling the fuse under the dash. On our '93 U280 the 15A fuse is labeled "ETHER CRUISE". The air throttle will still work normally with the Bendix disabled. See the diagram below for the Bendix components and how they integrate with the air throttle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Twig on June 09, 2022, 09:03:44 am
Sounds like the RV1 pressure reducing valve is stuck if it is in fact a Bendix. It's on the firewall and looks like this.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on June 09, 2022, 09:19:02 am
Sounds like the RV1 pressure reducing valve is stuck if it is in fact a Bendix.
Respectfully disagree. The RV1 is a simple pressure regulator. It supplies 60 psi to the solenoid assembly on the CA-1 Control Module. OP says "Eng starts normally. Idles fine for a min then jumps to 2k rpm again". A "stuck" pressure regulator would not cause the engine RPM to start out at normal idle and then suddenly jump up to 2000 RPM.
MY guess (and it's only a guess) would be a fault in the CA-1 Control Module or a fault in the electric potentiometer on the end of the CC-5 air cylinder.
I hope I'm wrong, because both of those components are, AFAIK, pretty much unobtainable.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Protech Racing on June 09, 2022, 09:59:20 am
I'm using GM ride height sensors for Microsquirt tps signal . It is a potentiometer that may work for a pedal sensor , if the oe is NLAv
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Old Toolmaker on June 09, 2022, 10:20:49 am
MY guess (and it's only a guess) would be a fault in the CA-1 Control Module or a fault in the electric potentiometer on the end of the CC-5 air cylinder.
I hope I'm wrong, because both of those components are, AFAIK, pretty much unobtainable.
The cylinder and pot may be unavailable fro Bendix, but they're common in industrial applications. Festo is my go to source for that sort of thing because of their modular design systems. i.e you can mix and match pieces until you get what you need to put the cruise control back in service.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 09, 2022, 12:57:35 pm
More details would help with long distance guesses on what is going on. What engine do you have? What type cruise control (Bendix or King)? Do you have a air throttle?
'95 U240 Cat 3116 Don't know on the Cruise. Air Throttle?
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 09, 2022, 01:01:14 pm
Thanx Dave. I just ask in case something has been changed from the original factory configuration.
If trouble is suspected with the Bendix Cruise Control system, it can be disabled temporarily by pulling the fuse under the dash. On our '93 U280 the 15A fuse is labeled "ETHER CRUISE". The air throttle will still work normally with the Bendix disabled. See the diagram below for the Bendix components and how they integrate with the air throttle.
Thanks for this. Am at a truck repair in Yreka, Onarheim towing, but in the run up from Weed everything ran normally. I will ask them to verify the fluids and get back on the road :) I hope!
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Twig on June 09, 2022, 08:35:33 pm
Respectfully disagree. The RV1 is a simple pressure regulator. It supplies 60 psi to the solenoid assembly on the CA-1 Control Module. OP says "Eng starts normally. Idles fine for a min then jumps to 2k rpm again". A "stuck" pressure regulator would not cause the engine RPM to start out at normal idle and then suddenly jump up to 2000 RPM.
MY guess (and it's only a guess) would be a fault in the CA-1 Control Module or a fault in the electric potentiometer on the end of the CC-5 air cylinder.
I hope I'm wrong, because both of those components are, AFAIK, pretty much unobtainable.
You might be right but when I had a run away cruise control, replacing that valve corrected it.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: John Haygarth on June 10, 2022, 02:59:58 am
This may not be a cause but suggest at least trying it. One of the GVs I bought sight unseen in Texas had an issue similar to O P mentions and after driving 3000 miles home with it I took the cylinder apart, greased the parts then put it back together and problem solved. As mentioned this may not the issue but worth the hour doing it to stop any "stickiness" with seals Johnh
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Old Toolmaker on June 10, 2022, 08:07:04 am
Sounds like the RV1 pressure reducing valve is stuck if it is in fact a Bendix. It's on the firewall and looks like this.
That makes sense. If that pressure regulator is failing open, the air pressure to the air cylinder operating the governor lever would rise, giving an un-commanded increase in power.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: OldManSax on June 10, 2022, 08:09:47 am
I had the same thing happen on my '85 6V92 while driving across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. Wide open throttle unless I applied the brake. I managed to get to the other side and stop. Shut off the engine and disconnected the electrical connections to the Bendix cruise control. That solved the problem. I never did get the cruise fixed.
TOM
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: kimosabe99 on June 10, 2022, 01:45:27 pm
I also had something similar happen. While climbing a short but steep grade with cruise control engaged, I had it lock up at full throttle that became evident when I exited at top into a rest area and couldn't disengage cruise by switch or brake pedal. I was able to brake it down into a parking spot and turned off engine. Troubleshooting finally got me to the Bendix control box and the valve body. I tapped it with a small hammer and then Whoooosh. Pressure releases and throttle retracts. Everything worked fine after that including cruise control. As a precaution I disengaged cruise when starting any grade. When I returned home, I disassembled the valves and replaced all O rings and cleaned up the valve body. No more problems after that. The O rings were purchased at Ace Hardware and were easy to match.
jk
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: red tractor on June 10, 2022, 07:59:53 pm
I agree with Twig. The same thing happened on our 84 ORED with the Bendix cruise control/air throttle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 11, 2022, 10:24:19 am
OK, the latest. I stopped at Peterson Cat in Redding. They took a look and said that the Radiator fluid was good but the Radiator and Intercooler were VERY dirty. I did determine that what was in the radiator was GREEN. I had thought it was red, but did not realy know. When I went into the Parts dept to buy a couple of gal of GREEN they said that was the wrong one for a CAT3116. IAC, I drove south from Redding. Temp got warm (100deg+ day). Babyed it, made it over the grapevine (2 stops when temp got close) and am now at the Bonelli Campground in San Dimas. I will be here to the end of the month and will see if I can get the coolant changed to the correct one and the radiator cleaned! There has been NO reoccurrence of the Cruise issue! so far so good! I read Bretts posting on Coolant but did not understand the terms. SAS? If anyone can give advice on the correct coolant for the CAT3116 I would appreciate it:)
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on June 11, 2022, 10:39:59 am
Don't know about SAS, but SCA is certainly relevant for the old generation green "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" coolant. SCA concentration needs to be checked annually (it is used up) and proper concentration restored. SCA can be added as a liquid or by using a coolant filter with the correct amount of SCA.
And no idea who you talked to, but yes that IS an acceptable coolant for your parent block Caterpillar 3116.
But so it Caterpillar ELC which is the new generation "maintenance-free" coolant. Basically 6+years with no testing, adding anything, etc. That is what many of us have gone with. With this coolant, you use a coolant filter BLANK (full filtration, but no SCA). You should be able to get Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE at any Caterpillar dealer.
Surprised your side radiator CAC and radiator are badly clogged externally (OR did they see some evidence of internal clogging/restriction-- if so, how was this determined?). If external, what is clogging them-- dirt, grass. other??? Yes, if driven on muddy roads, they can suck in dirt. But that should be pretty easy to wash out with a regular garden hose and nozzle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Jason on June 11, 2022, 11:15:09 am
Glad to hear you are back on the road.
Sounds like you need a proper radiator flush with a backflush. Ideally, whomever does this will remove the engine block drain plugs, most mechanics don't do this as it takes longer. But, this ensures there your engine block is fully drained of the old stuff. Brett may know how many are on there, guessing 2, possibly 3.
Here is a video for the 8.3, which I know you don't have that. At the 8:22 mark, there is a petcock to drain the block, that would be much easier than removing plugs! I will let one of the CAT3116 gurus weigh in on what is there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uD7HNpjkMCc
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 13, 2022, 10:44:05 pm
Don't know about SAS, but SCA is certainly relevant for the old generation green "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" coolant. SCA concentration needs to be checked annually (it is used up) and proper concentration restored. SCA can be added as a liquid or by using a coolant filter with the correct amount of SCA.
And no idea who you talked to, but yes that IS an acceptable coolant for your parent block Caterpillar 3116.
But so it Caterpillar ELC which is the new generation "maintenance-free" coolant. Basically 6+years with no testing, adding anything, etc. That is what many of us have gone with. With this coolant, you use a coolant filter BLANK (full filtration, but no SCA). You should be able to get Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE at any Caterpillar dealer.
Surprised your side radiator CAC and radiator are badly clogged externally (OR did they see some evidence of internal clogging/restriction-- if so, how was this determined?). If external, what is clogging them-- dirt, grass. other??? Yes, if driven on muddy roads, they can suck in dirt. But that should be pretty easy to wash out with a regular garden hose and nozzle.
I live about 4mi back on a dirt/gravel road. The times i took the coach our were muddy and dusty, so Yes, th think it needs a good cleaning as well as a rad flush and update to the "good" stuff :) Thanks Brett!
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: dsd on June 13, 2022, 11:33:54 pm
I live about 4mi back on a dirt/gravel road. The times i took the coach our were muddy and dusty, so Yes, th think it needs a good cleaning as well as a rad flush and update to the "good" stuff :) Thanks Brett!
I'm very happy with my precleaner addition especially if your off the asphalt. Donaldson Precleaner (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41252.0) I would never operate without. Scott
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: fourdayoff on June 14, 2022, 09:46:27 pm
X2 with DSD, did mine first, great addition. Jim.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on June 18, 2022, 06:50:34 pm
I'm very happy with my precleaner addition especially if your off the asphalt. Donaldson Precleaner (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41252.0) I would never operate without. Scott
I'll check it out :) Thx
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 02, 2022, 01:06:54 pm
OK I'm back :( Overheated coming thru AZ yesterday. got to 225°, light came on and I pulled over.RPMs went to 2100 I had the radiator checked and the intercooler and Radiator cleaned (not flushed). everything seemed fine until climbing a small hill in 105°heat. Ran all day yesterday in 5th at 58mph. just fine. staying until the 5th at KOA in Las Cruces. Yesterday, talked to someone at Foretravel. Not Randy. He agreed that the 2100rpm was prolly a reaction to the overheat to get the coolant moving faster. Alot was said about an air throttle. I found that if i exercise the brakes multiple times to (<60lb) the idle will go to normal until the pressure is about 78lb then the 2100rpm will return. Also heard a whistleing sound from the back of the rig when I stopped. slowly went away like an air leak.
Also having trouble with the propane generator. I rebuilt the regulator(it was totally gunked up)and switched it to feed off the vapor port. Has worked fine untill last night when it stopped after running for several hours, now it will only run for a couple of min with a load Even just the ridge causes the voltage to bounce around then stop. seems to be running rough with no load Great maiden voyage
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 02, 2022, 01:12:58 pm
The Caterpillar 3116 is a mechanical engine-- no computer to raise idle speed. Next time that happens, raise the bed or from the back, verify that something is not hanging up the throttle. Actually with the engine off, study what "throttle closed position is" and familiarize yourself with the throttle cable from the Bendix unit on the engine compartment's front wall.
And, one of the first things I would do is just replace the engine thermostat (Caterpillar calls them regulators). You will also need the gasket. Easy to replace-- drain a couple of gallons of coolant. Remove thermostat. Fill as much of the coolant as you without overflowing. Install new thermostat. Start engine and top off coolant.
Also, verify that the V belt driving the engine water pump is properly tensioned (not shiny/slipping).
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Moby on July 02, 2022, 01:17:50 pm
Maiden voyages can be heaven. Or hell. Small consolation, but know many of us have personally experienced your pain in some way or another and this too will pass. All i can say is concentrate not on the problems of today but the pleasures of tomorrow because when you get these things settled it's gonna be a blast. (PS: Wolfe knows his stuff. Take his advice to heart)
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Barry & Cindy on July 02, 2022, 06:45:47 pm
One way some of us have prevented coolant overheating on up hills is to downshift, go slow, keep (Cummins) engine RPM about 1,600 - 2,000. In other words, stay off throttle. Sometimes lower downshifts got us going slower and staying behind trucks that we would like to pass.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 02, 2022, 06:58:23 pm
And, with his Caterpillar 3116, RPM around 2,200 and less than WOT. Said another way, choose a gear where you are about that RPM and if you go to WOT you will still (slowly) accelerate. This is what the "down arrow" on the Allison shift pad is for-- to allow you to select and keep the transmission in the gear YOU want/need.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 02, 2022, 08:49:45 pm
One way some of us have prevented coolant overheating on up hills is to downshift, go slow, keep (Cummins) engine RPM about 1,600 - 2,000. In other words, stay off throttle. Sometimes lower downshifts got us going slower and staying behind trucks that we would like to pass.
That was one of the first things I learned on the way back to OR last year. The guy I bought it from (Great Guy BTW) said to let the Tranny do the work. Coming into Buford WY, i learned better :)
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 02, 2022, 08:51:36 pm
And, with his Caterpillar 3116, RPM around 2,200 and less than WOT. Said another way, choose a gear where you are about that RPM and if you go to WOT you will still (slowly) accelerate. This is what the "down arrow" on the Allison shift pad is for-- to allow you to select and keep the transmission in the gear YOU want/need.
Yup, Learned this, this trip. I'm going to be here at the KOA in Las Cruces this weekend, so i will putter. Happy Birthday to US! Semper Fi!
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 03, 2022, 05:48:29 pm
I made a video of the 2100RPM issue. It does seem to be air related. If the Air drops below about 60 it stops going up. at 78 then goes back up. Looking for the whistling after shutdown. don't know if this will work, but I moved the video to my dropdox. Here is the link https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn89ufhruta1f0z/20220703_115507.mp4?dl=0
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 03, 2022, 06:12:21 pm
First observation is that air pressure is WONKY. Your compressor should absolutely be able to keep up with those brake stabs without dropping to 70 PSI. When was the last time the air dryer was serviced/replaced?
Pull the tank drains and check carefully for signs of water, oil or WHITE POWDER. Let us know.
And, as we discussed, remove the Bendix air release (copper- colored) fitting and make sure it is not clogged.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 03, 2022, 06:14:18 pm
First observation is that air pressure is WONKY. Your compressor should absolutely be able to keep up with those brake stabs without dropping to 70 PSI. When was the last time the air dryer was serviced/replaced?
Pull the tank drains and check carefully for signs of water, oil or WHITE POWDER. Let us know.
And, as we discussed, remove the Bendix air release (copper- colored) fitting and make sure it is not clogged.
Never had air brakes except on our Fire truck! Will check!
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Doug W. on July 03, 2022, 06:59:41 pm
If losing excessive amount of air when brakes are being applied you have an air leak in a valve, brake line or brake can. To check chock wheels have full tank of air and engine off disengage emergency brake and apply steady pressure to the brake pedal watch for a continual drop in air pressure and have someone walk around and listen for air leaks. If so you're out of service, repair before travel.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Jason on July 03, 2022, 07:20:17 pm
Looking at the video, when you apply the brakes, are your RPMs really fluctuating that much? You can hear your engine RPMs bounce like that? If not, it could be a gauge/ground issue.
Second what Brett said, do a brake test, I don't have the link but there is about 6-7 tests to do.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Moby on July 03, 2022, 07:22:42 pm
Wolfe, It's what? 60 lbs before the brakes lock up?
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 03, 2022, 07:33:25 pm
Looking at the video, when you apply the brakes, are your RPMs really fluctuating that much? You can hear your engine RPMs bounce like that? If not, it could be a gauge/ground issue.
Second what Brett said, do a brake test, I don't have the link but there is about 6-7 tests to do.
Yes, as soon as you step on the brake, the RPM'S go to normal Idle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on July 03, 2022, 08:14:38 pm
When our cruise was stuck at WOT, stepping on the brakes also dropped the throttle to low idle.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 03, 2022, 08:34:00 pm
So, hes dangerously close to having his brakes lock up if he were moving in that video?
So spring brakes don't lock up. They apply there full force but is less than fully applied brake. Many variables with different brakes and weights, but on my coach if you set the parking brakes you will come to s safe controlled stop using only the rear brakes as they are only installed on the rear.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on July 04, 2022, 12:28:00 am
Lift up the bed platform. Look around your engine compartment walls. If you see anything that looks like the photo below then that is the Bendix cruise control setup. See if the "whistling sound" is coming from any of the components on that plate. If it is, that component might be the source of your high idle problem. Let us know what you find.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: dsd on July 04, 2022, 12:38:15 am
IRWIN Pinch-Off Lock Tool, Silver metallic, 7 Inch - Locking Jaw Pliers -... (https://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-RR-7-Inch-Locking-Pinch-Off/dp/B00004SBCE/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3D7JL7ZO6VZUH&keywords=vise+grip+hose+pinch+pliers&qid=1656909384&sprefix=Vise+grip+hose+%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-8) I carry three pairs. Really I'm not Paranoid
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on July 04, 2022, 12:43:25 am
When the parking brake is applied or the pressure drops below 45 psi or so, it will apply but the spring in the can cannot come anywhere near the air pressure your brake pedal applies when you step on the brakes. That's why the parking brake should only be used on flat ground and with even a slight slope, chocks should be placed in front and behind a wheel.
To check the effectiveness of the parking brake, apply it at about 30 mph and you will be surprised by the distance it takes to stop the coach.
If the service brakes are heated on a downgrade to the point of losing effectiveness, applying the parking brake will do absolutely nothing so should never be considered as any kind of safety resort. I overheated the brakes on (at 10 mph) a steep mountain road above Malibu, CA in first gear! Applying the Anchor Lok/parking brake did nothing and I had to put the right side wheels of the fire truck down into the dirt shoulder to get it to stop.This is what happens when a city is too cheap to put a Jake brake on the truck but still sends it to fight campaign/out of town fires.
Pierce
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on July 04, 2022, 09:35:52 am
Less that WOT for me. That is about 2600 RPM. Guy at Foretravel thought it was a reaction to overheat. did NOT tell me how to tun it off :(
As BW said in reply #31, the 3116 is not computer controlled. The guy at FOT was just mistaken.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on July 04, 2022, 09:45:26 am
If you happen to be headed north, Mark at MC Diesel in Albuquerque is a great Cat mechanic. He might be willing to work on the throttle/cruise issue. If you do go there, have him adjust your injectors and valves. M.C. Diesel | Albuquerque Diesel Mechanic | (https://www.mcdieselnm.com/)
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 04, 2022, 09:55:36 am
Wagner is the Caterpillar dealer right there in Las Cruces.
No nothing about them, but they could certainly get you a new thermostat (Cat calls them regulators) and gasket. Just need your engine serial number.
Wagner Rents 2501 W AMADOR AVE LAS CRUCES, NEW MEXICO United States of America 88005-4014 Phone 1 575-647-9700 More Info Hours Monday0700 - 1700 Tuesday0700 - 1700 Wednesday0700 - 1700 Thursday0700 - 1700 Friday0700 - 1700 Saturday0000 - 2400 VIEW FLEET Quick Quote
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 04, 2022, 06:45:45 pm
I'm back. Looks like the 2100RPM and whistling is definitely the Bendix. Cannot see where the sound is coming or feel any blow by but it all corresponds to 78lb of pressure. When you shut down, the whistle persists till about 60lb and after you start, starts at 78lb where it pulls on the cable. Posting videos (smaller). All videos are here! https://www.dropbox.com/s/wz7c5zktkq1z7gk/20220704_155309_1.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3brhzzrucf16qz/20220704_155548_1.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn89ufhruta1f0z/20220703_115507.mp4?dl=0
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 04, 2022, 06:48:44 pm
Wonder if the RV-1 Reducing Valve is bad and the bendix is getting way over pressured? What did you find when you opened the tank drains?
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 04, 2022, 08:36:08 pm
Wonder if the RV-1 Reducing Valve is bad and the bendix is getting way over pressured? What did you find when you opened the tank drains?
Where are the drain tanks? I never see more than 112lb on the dash air gauge.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on July 04, 2022, 09:19:19 pm
So you have tracked the "whistling sound" down to the vicinity of the Bendix assembly. Now you need to pinpoint the location of the leak. I would suggest you make up a water+soap solution. You can make your own with liquid hand soap, or dish washing soap, or buy a bottle of child's bubble making solution. Spray the whole Bendix assembly with soap solution and look for the bubbles. It should not be difficult to find the leak - it sounds pretty substantial.
Once you have isolated the source of the leak, either repair it (if possible) or replace the defective part.
Several Forum members have suggested that a faulty RV-1 could be a likely cause of the problem. If so, you might start researching a source for a new RV-1. If possible, get one that is already set to output 60 psi because that is the desired pressure down stream of the RV-1. If you can't find one set for 60 psi, they are adjustable, and setting can be changed after installation.
When you settle down again, does your air dryer purge on a regular basis? If yes, buy a D2 governor fo a spare and crank your existing D2 governor up so the air dyer purges at 120 PSI.
If you can hear air leaking you can most likely find it with your hand. 600 PSI steam your use a corn broom, 120 PSI air your hand.
Your throttle problem runs on 60 PSI air. Your "throttle" problem is either the foot feed in the front leaking or more probably a bad 60 PSI regulator in the rear. First step 120 PSI main air. Second step is getting no more than 60 PSI to the air throttle.
"Yesterday, talked to someone at Foretravel. Not Randy. He agreed that the 2100rpm was prolly a reaction to the overheat to get the coolant moving faster."
Randy was born into a world run with microprocessors. Your engine and air throttle was not.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Twig on July 05, 2022, 02:55:53 pm
As an aside......there IS a Rosa's Cantina in El Paso and it's worth the visit. Shirts are pricey but also worth it.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on July 05, 2022, 03:20:06 pm
We had lunch there but after we left, I had a deep burning pain in my side. Better option is the T.... Twister not far over the border. It gets wild after dark.
Pierce ;)
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 10, 2022, 09:36:19 pm
This from the 1993 U240, but likely applies to yours as well.
Aft tank drain in front of driver's side rear tire.
Front tank drain below front grill.
Both are 90 degree valves-- no tools needed.
Let us know what you find: nothing but clean air, water, oil, white powder.
Finally was able to check. No valves or petcocks. Opened a hose on the bottom. Nothing but clean air. Closed it back up. The KOA in Austin TX has a Diesel Tech that lives there. He checked it out, said air was fine. poked and proded and decided the Bendix was bad. I decided to limp it home at 2100rpm's. Yesterday about noon I got tired on the road, pulled off and took an hour nap. When I started it up, everything ran normally and continues. I'm in Las Cruces NM Worst thing when problem in intermittent. Hope it stays gone until I can get into the Bendix and check it out! Intermittent of some kind when it gets hot.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 11, 2022, 02:48:08 pm
You couldn't find the air tank drains???
Which Bendix component was diagnosed as bad-- compressor or air dryer?
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Protech Racing on July 11, 2022, 03:57:17 pm
My compressor pumps straight into the wet tank and then back to the dryer . That tank drip valve always has moisture in it.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 11, 2022, 04:35:57 pm
My compressor pumps straight into the wet tank and then back to the dryer . That tank drip valve always has moisture in it.
Unusual routing. Usually it is compressor, air dryer and then wet tank.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Dave Larsen on July 12, 2022, 08:44:01 am
FWIW, Both air tanks on our U240 are in the front and both have drain hoses running to 1/4 turn valves that are mounted just below the HWH tank under the front end. Looks factory...
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Old Toolmaker on July 12, 2022, 07:10:03 pm
FWIW, Both air tanks on our U240 are in the front and both have drain hoses running to 1/4 turn valves that are mounted just below the HWH tank under the front end. Looks factory...
Our U225 is the same.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Cpt_kludge on July 23, 2022, 03:01:15 am
Which Bendix component was diagnosed as bad-- compressor or air dryer?
The only Bendix I know of is the Cruise control at the rear firewall under the bed. IAC I'm back home. Tested pos for Covid and am waiting out the 10 days. The ONLY issue I had after the Bendix fixed itself was Overheating coming up the Syskiyu's in Southern Oregon. I'm taking it to Oregon Motorcoach in Eugene, the end of Sept to have them go thru the entire cooing system and make sur the fafs are turning properly. Also having them go thru the Onan Genny.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: Old Toolmaker on July 23, 2022, 08:35:54 am
The only Bendix I know of is the Cruise control at the rear firewall under the bed.
I think Mr. Wolfe is referring to the entire air throttle-air brake system as being manufactured by Bendix.
"We" think that your air throttle pressure regulator is flaky. Main air is 90-120 PSI and is lowered by a dedicated pressure regulator to 60 PSI for the air throttle system. Your foot feed operates a variable pressure regulator to, well, regulate the pressure sent to the air cylinder that controls the amount of fuel being fed to the engine.
Title: Re: Broke down
Post by: wolfe10 on July 23, 2022, 09:17:37 am
Hope you have verified that the do have an "older" tech who has actually worked on that Bendix cruise/throttle.