Are there any of the older Foretravels which aren't "cursed" with electronically controlled engine/transmission/chassis electrical systems?
Thanks, Mikeado1
Yes, our '92 U-240 was all mechanical.
Mike
Yep 1990 Grand Villa none of that stuff.
1997 U295 had mechanical engine. Transmission was computer control along with the thermostat
Good to know! Thanks all!!!!
Mikeado1
If the Allison transmission is a 6 speed (3060 or 4060, with or with out retarder) it is electronic control.
I don't know anything about the 4 speed trannys (MT643, MT647, MTB648, HT746). They may be mechanical control.
You can look up the specs on most early models at the link below:
Foretravel Specifications, Floor Plans, Photos & Brochures by Year (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=through_the_years:specs)
Lost alternator and generator in Alaska,made it home without both.
I have an 87 model. Came with a Ford 460. Luckily there is very little in the way with electronics. One reason I bought this unit. Sad fact that the newer the model the more electronics you have to deal with. Is there a way to go into your system and remove those pesky electronic systems? Just a thought. Best of luck to you.
People in general only post complaints they have with electronics. They are the 10%ers the other 90 % aren't posting about how great everything is. I am one of the majority and don't post either about how smooth the components of my coach operate without ever seeing check engine or other icons. Seven years now and I hope this doesn't jinx the trip we are leaving on.
Craneman....
NOW YOU DONE DID IT!
The other side of the coin, is the computer controls will alert you to possible impending engine/trans damage.
If your not a mechanic and take your machine to a shop for everything then you tend to like a newer unit,the ones who do most
of their own work like the older ones simply because they are easier to work on.
I purchased my coach and suspect it had experienced a static discharge event. Both the engine ECM and HWH controllers were bad. Yes I understand your concern, but every car on the road today relies on many computers to make them function. I agree the eighties were a tough learning curve for the manufactures but they are quite dependable IMO now. That being said some of the fuel systems " CAPS" would be a bigger concern to me, but yes they too are resolvable. 3000 series Allisons also evolved. So many different ways to get to what you want. The search function at the top right of this page holds many answers and possibly many more questions. Good luck on your search
Scott
Note I started this post just after chuck posted but was called to go change a damaged Buss Protection Control Panel. BPCU. Yes it too is computer controlled and was broken. Lol
While Craneman has left everyone dangling up in the air, I have to say that I agree with him. 90% of RV drivers have no clue what is going on, so the computers are there to protect them from themselves. Plus, Foretravel put all the warning lights on GVs where the steering wheel rim blocks the view. Our U300 does not have a buzzer so when the hydraulic belt broke right after we bought the coach, I never noticed it until the DDEC went into shutdown mode. Any kind of major engine overheat or failure is going to cost between $30K and $40K to fix in a shop. For a Detroit, the DDEC also means there is no rack to run so no shop bills for this task. The electronic injectors cost a lot more than the mechanical but we have never had to replace one yet. Plus, we can test the injectors with the ProLink 9000 so most problems can be owner addressed with over 40 different readouts for boost, fuel temp/pressure, MPG overall since new, trip or real time, fast idle, etc, etc. To finish my ramble, I don't dislike the concept of electronic controls, I just hate automatic transmissions.
Note that all electronic controls are not created equal.
Chuck, sorry, but I could not resist that one at the top.
Potential RV owners should be aware that shop repairs have gone from expensive to budget breaking expensive. That and the cost of operation for insurance, fuel, towing and normal maintenance is driving the cost of ownership through the roof. The latest smog engines are MUCH more likely to require more maintenance. Many are finding that something like a Sprinter is a lower stress alternative.
Pierce
I just did an exhaust manifold myself parts 600 bucks. Having just had to replace an ECM $3800.00 while out on the road, you are at the mercy of the shop. That is if you can find a shop that will work on a motorhome in a timely fashion. It ain't for the faint of heart. Now on with generator repair, looking like the generator head is bad, will find out on the 5th.
Being broke down in the driveway at home is one thing, out on the road is something all together different mechanical or electronic, as you are usually some place where you just can't go taking the rv apart.
This varies so much by year of build and model. My 98 has an all mechanical 1997 C8.3 with 325 hp. The 3060R transmission has a computer as does the suspension with HWH controller. Take an all mechanical engine up to 9000 plus feet and you will wish it had a computer to adjust air fuel mixture. When a mechanical dash gauge goes wonky you will miss the option of Silverleaf readings. With no egr, particulate filter, def, and regeneration mode you eliminate a lot of failure points. My obsolete King Throttle and cruise is a ticking time bomb. Pick your poison.
So this has been in the back of my mind since I purchased my rebuilt ECM. Lifetime warranty. Like 950K miles recorded on it. Its not rebuilt but reflashed. Very few failure history, but without a working ECM you have a expensive paperweight.
I offen consider getting a "new" spare knowing that it would be less than the cost of a tow. Would also carry with me in the coach in a shipping box. Im guessing if I was to purchase one I would never need it! But would have with me to overnight to someone who did. It can take days to get one and longer to get it programmed to your coach. I am my own worst enemy. Good warranties are great till you need the product
Programmed Control Module ECM ECU 3408501 Cummins Engine Parts QSM11... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/203538799120). I contacted them and they said can be programmed to our coach. Was $1190? This is made by Cummins of China. Anyones guess as to build quality
I think this is a great idea Scott, you should definitely do it ;)
ECU don't usually fail by themselves. Cummins injector wiring or even an injector failure can cause ECU overheating and failure. Here is a list of the most common reasons ECUs fail.
So, having an extra ECU with you may save the day or may only remedy the situation for a short time.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/1543405d1471514654-procuring-ecu-old-car-ecu-failure-reasons.pdf Note the emphasis on the Celect Plus type.
Pierce
Ive got 35k miles on my replacement unit, guess it could go out any time soon then
Scott, please note that I said it may save the day or remedy the situation for a short time. Guess it depends if you are a half empty person or the half full type. Sounds like the replacement saved the day for you but the check list is something to consider for PM maintenance.
Pierce
If you got that, which I'd be hesitant to being from China, I'd want to swap it, take it for a spin around the block and if all is good, start a trip asap to ensure everything works. You'd have your backup as a spare should something go wrong. If anything does not work as it should, you have 60 days to return it.
Is there a junkyard for these? I wouldn't mine buying one as well and having it reflashed/reprogrammed.
Absolutely. Would install immediately. They say factory Cummins part, but who knows. Price is okay for a new part. Keeping my old one with all the mileage is a good proven spare.
You got me looking Scott.... My 2000 is a different part # than your 2001, I have Cummins ISC ECM 3944105 – Diesel ECM (https://dieselecm.com/products/cummins-isc-ecm-3944105).
I don't know anything about this place, but the price seems fair for it being guaranteed tested, programmed and a lifetime warranty. Or send in yours for a lower price. I did price a new one for mine, it was just under 3 coach bucks. Ouch.
Here is the part # you supplied. Cummins ISM ECM 3408501 – Diesel ECM (https://dieselecm.com/collections/cummins-ism-ecms/products/cummins-ism-ecm-3408501)
Anyone used this place before? They're in Grand Prairie, TX.
Jason you have a different engine it would have to be a different ECM. Not so much a year model as it looks like the '99 ISM is the same as Scott's '01
Jason how many failures has your model had? Are they readily available? I just dont like the fact my replacement has 900k miles on it.
I have had zero issues, but in general, I like 1) having spares for critical items, or 2) know where to go if an issue occurs.
Does anyone know someone who has successfully replaced their king control with an air throttle. I lost mine in 2019 on a trip to Florida. I have a 1998 U270 with 8.3 Cummins and an MD3060R transmission. A trucking company in St. AUGUSTINE Fl. Installed an air throttle I purchased out of California. Total price $4500.00. I asked about the fact that the transmission was electronically controlled and the engine was mechanically controlled. The said don't worry the tranny will figure it out. They were wrong obviously and shortly after I arrived at Space Coast I figured that out and installed a tips. It sifted better but still not right. When returned to Maryland had Johnson and Tower reset the counts and it was shifting as it sould however it would stick in first gear occasionally and would not release unless you shut down the engine and restart. Returning from Forida in 2020 we lost the transmission.(hole in side of the case). $9000.00 later with a replacment rebuilt transmission we were back on the road but transmision was shifting all over the place. Got it back to Annapolis and had local Allison dealer reset the parameters and was told to drive it locally in stop and go traffic. Having done this for an hour or so it figured out appropriate shift points. However it still gets stuck in first gear after initial start and is an enigma to all so far. I'm sorry for such a lengthy description of my woes. Does anyone have a idea what's causing this condition? I've talked with John Kopaluk and he said the codes I'm throwing don't suggest he can help me. I've taken off the connectors at the pad and ECM, cleaned and replaced them. No change. Ive also replaced the outspeed sensor which is the origin of most of my codes. HELP
You need to start a thread on this issue as it is not related to the ECM. There are several posts on converting to an air throttle.