That probably got some attention, sure got mine. Sitting in backup I-95 N. Carolina on return from Hilton Head. Head light switch on.Started smelling faint smell of something burning. That burning wire smell. Didn't see anything wrong just attributed it to heat or hot asphalt. While later wife comes up front she noticed it, still faint. Can't see anything and stuck in backup. Looked down at gen switch and see sparking through slight gap between dash cover and gen switch plate. Get pulled over pulled dash cover and unplugged auto gen switch. Everything seems OK. Get home thinking it must be switch, pulled it looks OK but have not tested. It actually appears the gen switch cover melted. Is my electroluminescent dash shorting. It hasn't worked since I got it. Gauges are fine but no fancy trim or switches light. Never a dull moment
Yep same thing only different back ground lighting 115V ac
Interstate Commerce Commission ICC switch (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44076.msg450825#msg450825)
At the very least disconnect the connector on the panel back before it causes more damage and other problems like mine did.
what wire and where do disconnect
There is a little plug with little wires on the back of the panel . Just unplug and tape the plug end up.
That's so funny. Not! Driving down the road with a smell of burning wires is not my idea of a good time. Sorry that happened to you. Don't have an answer for you, but I would do a little bit more sleuthing before I disconnected anything. I'd want to know exactly what happened. Good luck on that. There's a lot of wires back there. I'd be surprised if it was the electroluminescent dash but then again stranger things have happened. Good luck on figuring it out and let us know please.
So rely #9 in the ICC post explains how the thin layers short out. Drilling and cutting these panels destroys them also. I think mine was actually self induced. The fan speed switch was completely loose and that may have damaged the panel or tightening it up did. Either way it's now junk. Curiously mine was also causing static when the background lights were on and causing the ICC threw the smart wheel to shut off or turn on the headlights. Not good. The system uses a 115 volt inverter that can also be damaged. Disconnecting the panel will stop the arcing.
We had this exact problem with the sparking/pitting and burning around the generator switch. The arching would occur when we turned the headlights on, just as you described. Checked all the wiring connections to and from the switches, including using heat shrink wrap to insulate the connections at the headlamp and generator switches. Still had the same issue.
Finally, asked my solar guy who's background in automobile electrical/electronics to troubleshoot. After a bit of head scratching he finally tracked it down to a burnt out blackened bulb in one of the instrument panel gauges. Replaced the bulb and its been 6 months and haven't had a bit of trouble since.
The culprit:
Replaced all panel gauge bulbs year ago February with LED bulbs. I could actually see gauges at night and also dim and brighten. They all appear to still work. Need to root around a bit more and see if find anything
So I've tried to find wiring to disconnect luminescent dash lighting but can't seem to find on schematic or visual. Haven't been too concerned but I'm leaving in couple days for Hilton Head and will probably need dash lights and it will start arching when headlights are turned on. I am including photos of the back where it is arching and looks like a capacitor of some sort attaches. Are individual lighting loops around clusters controlled by separate capacitors. Can I eliminate arching by cutting wiring to capacitor
Replaced all panel gauge bulbs year ago February with LED bulbs. I could actually see gauges at night and also dim and brighten. They all appear to still work. Need to root around a bit more and see if find anything
[/quote]
I would like to do this. Can you tell us what bulbs you used, where you got them, and how do you get to the bulbs to change them out?
Thanks
Removed each gauge by loosening nuts on brackets and unplugged from harness. Round plastic cover needs to be pried off with small screwdriver. Smaller gauges had one, larger two. Bulbs located inside. Will dig through paperwork and try to find bulb #'s. Amazing being able to EASILY see gauges and brighten and dim. I could not see gauges at night before changing bulbs
So right or wrong try unplugging stuff. Had no idea how electroluminescent dash works and kept looking for electrical feed to power whole dash luminescent set up and couldn't find. Upon closer exam concluded it wasn't one giant loop with one power source but maybe smaller individual loops accenting smaller clusters of gauges, switches, etc. Appears individual capacitors are located at each " loop" with one black-and-white wire that have connectors that allow power to be disconnected. Pulled connections apart, turned on headlights no arching. Will try again tonight to verify
So right or wrong try unplugging stuff. Had no idea how electroluminescent dash works and kept looking for electrical feed to power whole dash luminescent set up and couldn't find. Upon closer exam concluded it wasn't one giant loop with one power source but maybe smaller individual loops accenting smaller clusters of gauges, switches, etc. Appears individual capacitors (?) are located at each " loop" with one black-and-white wire that have connectors that allow power to be disconnected. Turned on headlights no arching. Will try again tonight to verify.
Unable to text at the moment. You can contact me at 870-335-5318 I had the same problem Kippy
Those are not capacitors, but convert 12 volts to 120 volts. So unplugging is the right thing to do. You also figured out that each one controls a different section of the dash.