I've read the post on replacing the pipe, go bigger pipe delete the muffler and do I need to
do the insulation wrap.
I went with the 2" and wrapped it up to the bend.
Anything you do to get the exhaust out ths side of the coach will work. I like a 2 inch pipe with wrap that ends 2 inches beyond the side of the coach.
I used 2" stainless and wrapped it to protect the insulation in the basement floor from the heat. The old pipe was heavily rusted in areas under the wrap, but not as bad where it wasn't wrapped so apparently the wrap was helping retain moisture. Of course the old exhaust had lasted 15 years.
I tried taking the elbow out but I don't want to brake anything. The elbow is in good shape
and I know I can get the nipple out. The old pipe was 11/2 exhaust tubing and if I use 13/4
tubing and If I go 2 inch exhaust tubing I will need to put in a 11/4 to 11/2 nipple. Is that I
I should go. I have been leaning towards stainless tubing and if I go stainless I will use a
stainless nipple.
Peter, cut two slots 180 degrees apart so the 2 inch tube can be clamped to the nipple.
Thanks Rudy so I should go with 2 inch tubing and what is the name of the wrap I should use.
The is an Industrial exhaust place here that might have the wrap. Won't know anything until
Monday.
That was my solution too. and then a good clamp.
So hate too add my opinion , but here it is. I did replace exhaust and did go to the straight pipe 2" per Rudy. I does work perfectly, but it is noticeable louder. Doesn't bother me in the least and DW never heard it restricted, or me either for that matter. BUT with it running I can shove the old tailpipe/muffler into the e end and it drops probably 15 DB. No I did retro the muffler in, just saying. I also think any of the muffler raps will be fine at the lower temperatures of operation. I also would recommend running short behind the drivers wheel or clear coating the rap in that area to increase life from water slinging off the tire. Just my two cents
Scott