I read and searched and decided to go with a reman'd unit, a HALDEX DA33100X from findit using the code Scott provided, thanks again! This 1st post was helpful Air Dryer Replacement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20966.msg154546#msg154546) Looking at the PO's records, it appears to be about 4 years and just the top kit done at FOT. I decided to save 2-3 hours rebuilding it and just get a compete unit.
However, what should be have been easy has turned into a royal pain. I have 2 of the 3 fittings off, which took some effort. The third, the large one on the curb side, is on there good. Like cemented. How do they get them on so tight? Did they over lock it? I bought a 14 piece set of 1-2" tekton crowfeet and my breaker bar didn't budge it. Kroil and heat were used as well. I'm pretty strong I like to think, but all my might and leverage was for naught.
I finally ordered a fitting from Napa. Which brings me to my question- the fittings need to be pointed a certain way. Are the ones on mine wound tighter than usual? Or do they go in nice and snug but still pointed correctly. I'd imagine that if they were this difficult, others would state this as well.
I guess this is pipe fitting you are having trouble with. One of the ways to use heat is to heat the
fitting and then with a soaking wet rag cool it quickly and it might shrink the fitting and then it will
come out. If I saw a picture of it I would have a better idea.
Yes here is a photo. They face towards the front of the coach and are the same https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_2024812S?impressionRank=1
Get the use of a vise and a 14 inch to 24 inch pipe wrench,will be super easy.
I have quit trying to replace fittings like that and buy all new when I can for this reason. If I can get them off, great, they go in the spare parts bin. Pretty sure I had one on my dryer that wouldn't budge too. They're awkward little units to get leverage on.
My first replacement, I had the same problem. I've learned that they don't have to be gorilla tight. I snug them up and then just enough to reach the correct position.
Rich
Yes, those big pipe fittings, especially if original factory installed, are always a hassle to remove. I put the dryer in a big vise and used a 4' cheater pipe on the wrench.
As to reinstallation, be sure to use a good quality pipe thread paste on the pipe fittings. The paste allows a little latitude in how tight you need to get the fitting. It will set up and seal the joint, even if the fitting doesn't seem "quite tight enough" when pointed in the correct direction.
I like the Permatex or Loctite products for this type of job.
Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant, 6 ML – Permatex (https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-6-ml/)
Amazon.com: Loctite 483631 592 Thread Sealant, 6-Mililiter Tube : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37398-Thread-Sealant-6-Mililiter/dp/B0002KKTHC?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20)
I like having both on hand. Permatex for when I'm working on my back (it doesn't run) and loctite for easy jobs at a work bench because it's generally cleaner and easier to mop up.
Thanks for the replies, glad to see I am not alone! I should have added that have tried a pipe wrench, both on/off the coach. I don't have a vice that large, but did put it in the 20 Ton HF press. Obviously not succeeding. I am surprised I am having this much difficulty since it isn't that dirty or corrosive, compared to some I have seen when searching on here.
Rich, I will do that. Coupled with the sealant I am sure I can get them on to the turn just before it becomes impossible. The 2 fittings I did remove did not have any sealant on them. I have some of the Loctite but will get some Permatex if it is not too runny, like the 592 is. Thanks Chuck.
Jason , its all about mechanical advantage. IMO everyone should have some vises, attempt to break loose in chassis? Use a ratchet strap to a trailer tongue or any unmovable object. Be creative. Propane torch and freeze spray may help. Yes a new fitting would be cheaper than destroying your core. Between having two large vises, trailers, backhoe, forklift, pipe wrenches up to four feet long, things usually work out for me at home. Kinda frustrating to have a fitting shear off flush at the threads thou, and that has happened. Bring it by and all pop it loose for ya. (If I can)
Scott
When using heat you need quick heat so if you don't have a vise you won't have a acetylene
torch. You need to figure out how to hold the drier so it won't move and use a big cheater.
I have a 16 inch crescent with a cheater makes quick work on fittings like that. When I put
fittings in I use a pipe dope and Teflon tape, the Teflon tape helps removing the fittings.
If you were near me, like Scott said come over and I would remove them for you.
Jason? A welder can make you a trailer hitch mount for a vise, and a 6" vise isn't all that much.
I grew up learning pipe fittings. I'm 65 and my late father still whispers in my ear. I've learned to tighten pipe fittings by the number of turns and position. I'm usually in the 1/2" to 1" pipe size. Also I used brass to stainless steel fitting when I replaced my air drier of unknown provenance.
I use Rectoseal No. 5 pipe dope. I apply the sealant to the male threads and screw the fitting into the female side as much as i can by hand. Then it's one more turn to 1 3/4 for position. Making pipe threads tighter doesn't make the stop leaking, it's the pipe dope that takes care of the leak by filling in the gap between male and female threads at the root and the crest of the threads. There are two spiral leak paths in every joint. Tapered pipe threads are for positioning the fitting.
Art
Loosen all fittings before removing. Some heat with welding tip will help that big nut feel the pain.
Can you not put the fitting in the vice then turn the whole assembly?
Funny, I was looking at trailer mounts earlier. I do have a small vise, but not one that this would fit in. This is probably 10" if I had to guess. Unless I put it on the filter which does not seem like a good idea since it can turn and/or collapse.
You mention a 20 ton press. With some ingenuity you could get the fitting between two metal pipes, bars etc. and hold the fitting while strap wrenching the assembly. Even jury rig a strap wrench if necessary.
At this point why not go on-line and order a new fitting? Nice shiny brass?
Art
I have a stainless one coming from Napa, link is in post 2.
Success! It took an extra day for the fittings to come in, the wife picked up a pair Friday. They went into the new one very smoothly. I did not over-tighten and my new Tekton crowfoot set was used. I also addressed a couple of small leaks on the regulator for my step.
In the shop, I put the old unit in the press and then removed the filter by hand. Once removed, I rotated it 90 degrees so it was upright, and put a steel block on the top section. Down with the press to hold it. This allowed me to use a crowfoot on a breaker bar and it came off easily. I have the originals as backups now.
For the core return, I am 99.9% sure they do not need the black spin-off filter, but can someone confirm? It weighs as much or more than the bottom unit.
Thanks again for the advice. Now to move on to the next todo!
I believe you're right but when I asked the same question at my HDT shop they didn't even know and just took what I gave them. Just pack it up in the box and slide it across the counter, they probably won't even look at it.
I got mine from findit, they dropped shipped from Haldex. I was able to find this, easy enough. It doesn't mention the filter
Haldex Core Returns : FinditParts (https://finditparts.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/5000807107-haldex-core-returns)