Fridge Fires
Talking to people, and following other websites, I know lots of people are worried about Dometic or Norcold fires. It certainly is something to be concerned with.
Lots of people change them out with residential models, but unfortunately lots of new nieve RV people don't realize, if you dry camp for any time, it takes big battery banks, high end batteries, Inverter/charger change, and lots of solar. Even with a Foretravel U320 and U295 which has three 8D batteries, you probably are not going to make it overnight, even if everything is in good condition and up to par.Not saying you can't, just saying it's difficult at best
I would never say don't do it, it's your coin. What's good for you, may not be good for others.For me, investing that kind of money in a 20+ year old RV isn't worth it. I have been working on, and owned many RV's for over 50 yrs, there is a solution if your absorbent refer is in good working order.
1st, I inspect mine all the time for any leakage of ammonia (green/yellow powder), #1 reason for fridge fires. I never really worried about our coach burning up, it's insured for agreed value, I know I can get out quick, but certainly don't want a fire.
Something recently hit me hard, was the fact that our coach is used all summer for towing the race car. Most of the year the coach is plugged into shore power, with the refer on. Stupid as it may seem, it dawned on me that the shop it's in, has 3 collector cars stored in it, along with lots of tools and years of hard to replace memorabilia.
So I decided to install a ARP defender, along with 3 fans. The controller I ordered, has the fan control built in with a sensor. APR also sells fans (I already had my fans).I would highly recommend this, it's really cool (pun intended). My good friend Bruce Bean has one, he directed me to it. Super easy to install, the controller does lots of other diagnostics. Fair warning, the designer is a tech guy, ex fire chief, so lots of good info, but may be a bit overwhelming. I have about $210.00 all in with fans cost.
I sleep really good at night, knowing I did all I could. I actually love our side by side Dometic, works awesome, ice maker and all. Have three basic wet 8D's, and 475 watts solar, so no worries anyway.I don't receive commision or anything, not a sales rep or anything, never even talked to the guy.Just sold on what I see.
Here is one really good quote for na sayers from his web sight, addressing my model fridge:
"Dometic Early 12 cu ft Side-by-Side Overview
The early 7 series Dometic fridges came in 5th Wheel Trailers, Class-A, and some Class-C motorhomes. Due to the dimensions of the refrigerator there is not a direct replacement for this excellent fridge. The good news is that if the boiler is not allowed to overheat on these units, they will last the life of the RV. Therefore, installation of the Fridge Defend is absolutely necessary to keep these fridges alive."
Here is a link:
Fridge Defend by ARP Protects your Dometic or Norcold (https://www.arprv.com/products.php)
I realize lots of you on here know most of this, just putting it out there for newbies.
I'am rarely on here, if at all, so if you have questions PM me on this sight, it goes to my personal email. Just putting this here to help my fellow Foretravelers.
Cheers
Chris
Chris,
I agree. An excellent product for any absorption refrigerator.
Adds to both refrigerator cooling system longevity and safety (significant reduction in risk of fire).
That's a project I need to accomplish.
Truth be told though. I have zero complaints about our old Norcold side by side fridge. It just works and works very well. As we are mostly on a pedestal and the fridge is on 120V, Fires are not as likely.
If you line your compartment like I did, that takes away a lot more risk than the APR. Has no one seen the photos of the destroyed coach where the APR failed?
Not many easy fixes in life. Do the work and then relax.
Pierce
Pierce
Do have pics of you lining for the fridge compartment?
I bought a Fridge Defend, entirely because people around here said it was a good idea. Several months later, the unit started shutting down my fridge every night.
I contacted ARP dude, mostly to complain and get a non-defective Fridge Defend.
After a bunch of testing, we determined the Fridge Defend WAS working properly, my fridge WAS overheating, and the electric heater element was bad. At least, I spent less on the Fridge Defend than I would have paid a shop to do the refrigerator diagnosis. More realistically, I dodged having my FT burn in my driveway. Or...?
Yes, it has lots of diagnostic screens, to determine what happened.Open circuit, closed circuit, shorted probe boiler temp,etc. Kinda like a check engine light with codes.It's mind boggling what it does.Guy is a whip.
Chris
Someone sent me a message,which came to my email, but said no reply foretravel. Don't see any messages here on the forum, so here is the answer about installing it:
Super easy. Refer does not have to come out. Has basic institutions, or you can go to the site (where to order directly) and put in your model, then it has specific instructions.Came priority in 3 days.
It's just the mounting of the probe (clips around boiler), and 2 wires, he gives you everything.
He is also a phone call away. There are videos too on the sight.
Another 2 wires if you do the fan.He does sell a basic unit, no fan control, think it's $69.00 if you have factory fans.
Be patient, he is a whip, so lots of info. Bruce ended up calling him, but he has streamlined the whole thing.
Chris
I did this many years ago and did a post on it. A lot of older posts are hard to find so I'm posting four photos. Once you get the fridge out, it's pretty easy to cut and install the backerboard. Home Depot has it and if you use something like a box cutter, you can avoid all the dust a saw will make. The stock wiring was poor and the outlets should be replaced at the same time. The wood under the outside access was rotted so I replaced it also. The HardieBacker is 1/4" thick and if you go to YouTube, you can see the fire tests. There is a very limited amount of hydrogen produced in a fridge failure so this Hardie board laughs it off. Even a blow torch does not even mark it.
Later coaches are much better but will still burn.
I also lined the engine compartment with it as seen in an older post. The insulation in the engine and generator compartment will quickly burn with the slightest open flame and release a lot of toxic smoke.
I was a career firefighter and with my dad and cousins, we have 100 years fighting fires at the Santa Barbara City Fire Dept.
Please PM with any questions.
Pierce
This was recommended to me by Keith Risch to go in behind the fridge....... on my short list...
Keith
As it says in the product write up, this is for enclosed spaces. Hard to displace oxygen with the side and roof vent and quite possibly a fan moving air through there.
From their website:
"Fireslayer Automatic Tube Style Fire Extinguisher Suppression System 6' for Auto, RV, Marine, Farm, Air-Cooled, UTV/ATV and many other Applications The Fireslayer is a New and Innovative Fire Suppression System
for Enclosed Spaces.
The Fireslayer is designed for fire suppression in enclosed spaces. Partially open or spaces with air flow will inhibit the fire systems activation and suppression. Fire extinguishment depends on factors such as the flammable substance involved, the space and shape of the compartment, proper installation, etc."
For years, before Halon was banned, we had similar systems in our sail boats. But the engine compartments were relatively closed spaces.
A discussion was posted on Facebook about this. Seems there are some owners who don't have the recall upgrade on their Norcold