Rejuvenating entry step and doing led conversion to entry light. Fiberglass cover hanging by thread so removed. Lots of surface rust and deep pitting on framework. Wire brushed, ground and sanded to prep for paint and then treated with ospho. Primed and painted with rustoleum. Couple questions.......What would be recommended to use for reattaching fiberglass to metal framing. Should I make it easier to take off for Servicing with screws or rivets or attach with adhesive. If so what type? I need to replace the cloth flap protecting storage area, sources? What are the 2 components mounted at the back of the under step storage? How can I put an override switch that will allow me to close/retract steps while vehicle is not in use? TIA
Lower door step (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42840.0)
Make sure what ever you do that the top with the step open is sealed. This will prevent water collecting inside during the rain. Mine seemed it was directed to it. Also seal up the pop rivets to prevent them from allowing water in. Drilling the drain holes larger is a plus IMO.any switch you install will use power, and as soon as the air is depleted they will drop unless you mechanically hold them closed. Last Month Chris Lang had mentioned replacing those three actuators with electric ones. What a brilliant Idea👍👍. no more leaks and could leave close effortlessly
Scott
what are the 2 components in the back of step box
A pic. will help as over the different years and models they mounted several items in that area. My blind guess is a couple of Norege valves that operate the step and the other for the step well cover.
Mike
As for the the adhesive to attach the fiberglass to the frame the factory used Lord Fuser two part epoxy. I used 3m 8115 panel bonding adhesive that is used on vehicles to bond sheet metal together to structure. It is very tough but requires a special gun to apply. If you had it all ready to go back together you could just take to a body shop as all us the 3m. I put a whole tube on mine the stuff costs about 60.00, but it will never come off in my lifetime. Also the 3m is rust inhibited. I'm not sure on other epoxy but some dry to quick. Once activated the 8115 has 45 minutes work time so plenty to get in place and edges wiped clean from squeeze out, don't let it dry on your paint.
Larry
If you loose air pressure while sitting then don't do the over ride switch because your step won't move with out air, making it a manual operation or a big step.
Keith
Vacuum pump and vacuum accumulator
On my 1997, when parked and finally lost air I could close the step and it would stay closed
So might be a idea to put a shut off solenoid on the air line to the steps? Or a manual valve. A three way could dump the air to the step too.
Scott
Our solution to keep outside step up when ignition is off:
Modify outside air step wiring to allow step to retract when ignition is off... (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=house:steps:modifyairstepwiring)
Used by many. When air pressure depletes, gravity MAY let step open.