Has anyone replaced all 8 shocks from underneath? I crawled around underneath this week and don't see any reason I shouldn't be able to replace the shocks lying on my back. I'm sure it will require air tools and a bunch of PB blaster, and hopefully not a cutting wheel, but other than that I don't see anything prohibiting me from getting the job done this way. I would appreciate any advice from those that have gone before me nonetheless. ^.^d
Look forward to the reply's as well - looking to do this as well.
I removed the right front shock of the right front wheel when I was doing the air bags from underneath
when I was doing the air bag as it was in the way. If I was changing my shocks I would wait until I do my
annual brake check with the wheels off as it would be a lot easier.
I unhooked the bottoms of my shocks to test them when I replaced the air bags. Despite the spray, big tools and grunt, several of the nuts seized on the first few shocks. For the rest, I bought nuts and bolts, cut the old ones, and didn't even try to loosen them. On our coach, the nuts are the ones with the taper where it never gets loose enough to spin, so I was bearing down on the nuts from beginning to (almost) end.
I didn't touch the top bolts.
Worst is a seized nut when the bolt spins freely in the shock. You have to use a torch, or find some way to hold it still for the cutting wheel.
My suggestion - buy all new nuts and bolts and cut the old stuff off.
I did all 8 using my Ingersoll air gun on the bolts. All were reusable. Just luck maybe.
I did mine while I had the rear wheels off to change out the brake pads. They were still a bugger to get to. I used an Earthquake XT, but it was a little bulky. A snub nose pneumatic air tool might have been easier.
I replaced all of mine two years ago when I changed the air bags. I bought a small, cheap air gun from Harbor Freight and it did the job. I thought it was pretty easy; the air bags were a whole different story.
I did all 8 shocks last week, but with fenders removed. 4 of the 16 bolts needed a cutoff wheel. My Milwaukee 1400-lb impact did the rest. Since I was doing the airbags at the same time, the shocks were easy to get at.
One tool that was a surprise hit for the airbag install: 1/2 inch Tite-Reach
1/2" Professional Tite-Reach Extension Wrench (http://tite-reach.com/products/1-2-professional-tite-reach-extension-wrench)
Boy they are proud of that wrench!!!
I finally got a better look at things today (the coach has been down in Phoenix getting new windshields) and I'll definitely have to pull the fenders to get to the shocks. Each corner has one shock that's accessible from underneath and one that is almost impossible to get at without pulling the fender.
For $140, No
For$43 on eBay, I went for it.
This job sucks even with the fenders pulled. 2 down 6 to go.
Elliott..... I'm planning on doing this myself right after Christmas. So question, removal of the rear panels is the only way to replace the airbags and shocks? Hopefully it goes smoothly for ya.
The bags can be done with fenders on but you'll want the special airbag tools I loan out to do it that way. I don't know how you'd do the shocks with fenders on though. Getting a wrench on the top bolt shown in my second picture above would be a nightmare. Maybe a slightly smaller nightmare if you had a lift but there's just very little room to work there. If you don't mind pulling the fenders that's the way to go. If you have a beautiful full body paint job that you're anal about, I'd take it to nac and let them do it.
Are the gold shocks original
No, those are the new Konis. The originals are the blue/yellow Billstiens laying on the ground in the first picture.
Mine are red so I guess they have been upgraded.
I thought U320's came stock with Koni shock absorbers and the U270, U295 came with Bilstein shocks.
I replaced my four Bilsteins up front last Summer with Koni shocks with no issues from underneath.
My 2001 320 IFS came with Koni's.... I'm pretty sure that was factory even without IFS setup.
I'll have to defer to someone who knows the history of Unicoaches better than I. One of the bolts on the other side is turned around though, so I suspect shocks have already been replaced on this rig once before; so it's quite possible.
I did all the air bags and shocks with the fenders on. Did bags first then 2 years later the shocks. Would have been nice to do both at the same time. I used an Ingersoll Rand air gun for the shock bolts.
Yep, did all the airbags also without removing fenders no specials tools needed except this one that is easy to work with, sorry not available to lend out. Come to Quartzsite this Winter maybe she'll negotiate :)
Elliott, wish I had seen this post before you started on replacements! I purchased my Koni's from Safe T Plus Steering Control / RV & Truck Steering Stabilizer (http://www.Safe-t-plus.com)
and at the same cost it would have cost me online and they put them on for free with coach on the concrete and did not remove any fenders. Air bags had been replaced a few years back at MOT. Sorry I am late, but may help someone else on here!
Not for nothing but that don't look like anyone called Doug to me, I can see why the job was easy now haha 😛
Doug, looking forward to hopefully seeing you and your, ..tools, next month in Q...
Looking forward to seeing you and Dawn and all the others as well. We're keeping a a close eye out for a window of opportunity to run South but having a little snafu with the guy that pushes on the go pedal. Gauges are showing a little abnormality, fuel lines will be checked out this coming Friday and hoping some type of additive will resolve the issue. :)
Doug, we will say a prayer for a positive test result and easy repair if needed...
Elliott, I can't wait to hear the right quality results.
You had it done by Safe T in TALLAPOOSA, GA?
Yes, I came in and had the safety steer installed and they offer free installs, so had both done at the same time. Nice big shop, clean and everyone was very nice.
I did mine last year, shocks and air bags at the same time. The shocks are easy. The airbags not so much on the fronts. I ended up taking the fiberglass panel off in order to get the front ones done. Almost impossible without doing that. Easy to do the shocks with the panel removed. I know that some shops use a hole saw and make a hole in the stairway to get to the front airbag. Totally not necessary, at least on our rig.
Kevin
When I did my rear air bags I had the rear wheels off and and they were easy. I did the right
front with the wheel on and it was a lot of work and for the left side I took the front wheel
off and it was easy.
I did all my shocks and air bags last year. I removed the tire and wheel to have better access. I did not remove any fenders, as I couldn't figure out how to get them off without damaging the paint. It was a fairly ambitious project. Some of the shock bolts were extremely difficult to remove. They had locking nuts and locktite on them.
4 week old thread but I'll add to it. I did all eight of my shocks in 2021. The front side did in Salome Arizona and the rears in Puerto penasco mexico. I don't really see a good way to do it without taking the fenders off. It made it much easier. Getting the nuts off though was much harder. My bosch half inch impact gun didn't touch it. On advice from John 44 I went to harbor freight and got the earthquake 3/4 in impact gun. That only worked for some of the nuts. The best thing I had was a three-quarter inch breaker bar and a four foot galvanized pipe to go over it that finally broke all of the nuts. I think a couple I had to cut off and replace them with hardware I bought in Mexico. I've noticed that there's a rust on those bolts which isn't a big surprise.
Luckily my airbags were replaced by a previous owner so hopefully I won't have to do that anytime soon.
Did the other rear corner today in 1.5hrs... getting faster
You may have them all done before I get there. Darn. I guess that'll mean you can help when I need mine done. Have you needed any impact tools as the others have?
I have a 1/2" impact gun that makes things go faster once the nuts are busted loose but in a couple cases the impact gun wasn't enough on it's own. Extra PB Blaster and a long 1/2" breaker bar did the job in those cases.
The first front corner sucked! A 3/4" earthquake impact wrench didn't move them at all. Thankfully I have a buddy around; we ended up getting them to move with a 10' pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar. I half expected the 1/2" extensions I was using to snap..
Take the chinee junk hong kong freight impact driver back for a refund and buy this: Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Impact... (https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Batteries/dp/B07L4R576Y/ref=psdc_551236_t2_B08P4NX77N)
It will rip your arm off or snap the fastener before it fails to take off a rusted bolt/nut. Plus it's cordless. I don't go anywhere without mine. And yes, it's 1/2 inch drive, so lighter tool & accessories. Don't take my word for it, check out the youtoob reviews. Woody.
Funny you suggest that Woody, I was already kicking that exact idea around. Very unimpressed by the earthquake. Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee
Agree and no cord or compressor required. Plus the price has dropped 50% since I bought mine 4 years ago!!! I only buy HF as throw away emergency tooling these days. JWID.
Red ones are older Koni's not FSD.
I was wondering about your compressor. I feed my Ingersoll Rand 3/4 impact with an 80 gal IR compressor. If you could convert to a 1/2" air line, it might help.
I bought a Mil M18 Fuel 1/2" impact when they first came out. IIRC, it only came with a 1 or 2 Ah battery. I got a distress call from my brother who had a flat tire and didn't have a tire iron with him. I took the hand tools we would need and my new impact. It wouldn't even budge some of the lug nuts! Good thing I had the hand tools! I soon got a 5 Ah battery which definitely made it much stronger. Maybe an M18 3/4" impact with a big battery would do it, but if you needed a 10' breaker, I know my M18 1/2 wouldn't have a chance.
Maybe the M18 1/2" has been improved or I have a dud.
My first 1/2 Milwaukee wouldn't break my wheel nuts loose but the second one is a fuel and it
will brake them loose and it can tighten up over 500 ft. lbs. I think the new Fuel will loosen and
tighten even more.
The 2767 M18 FUEL Cordless Brushless High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring eliminates the need to use a pneumatic tool for those stubborn and rusted bolts by delivering 1,000 ft./lbs. of fastening torque and 1400 ft./lbs. of nut-busting torque. With 2X faster removal speed, users will be able to get the job done faster and be more productive throughout their day. By providing the industry's most compact cordless High Torque Impact Wrench at 8.39 in L, this tool allows for more access in tight spaces. 4-Mode DRIVE CONTROL with Bolt Removal mode gives users the most control over their fasteners. Bolt Removal mode gives the user more control when removing fasteners by slowing to 750 RPM once the fastener has been busted loose. This tool offers quick, tool-free socket changes with a 1/2 in. friction ring anvil.
I do recommend hearing protection and safety glasses. Something is going to break. Crazy powerful. My fuel 1/4" hex driver has broken several snap on sockets 10mm and 16mm and two 3/4 in gear wrenches
Dave, M11 Fuel is a brand label. Model number is important. When I bought my 2767-22 4 years ago, the friction ring model had more reverse torque and was pricier. That's what I have, charger and 2 batteries in a case, and it'll take a wheel lug nut off on level 2. Level 4 will make 1400 ft/lb of off torque, which will remove or break anything on our coaches. Hang on tight!!! You either had a defective model or didn't have it set to level 4. I can't find the original u-toob video of the guy removing every lug nut from a Terex wheel loader except one, the convincer for me to invest in the Mil, but this guy does the similar test of the battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGgWlN9Q7y0&t=99s
10 feet of pipe is a lot of pipe. In all the years as a heavy duty mechanic I have never used a
cheater that long.
My Milwaukee 2767 impact wrench did a great job on 11 out of the 16 bolts. Three others wouldn't respond to the 1400ft-lbs nor the several day's worth of PB Blaster and needed to be cut with the grinder.
The 16th bolt was out of reach of the grinder. I used a 1-1/8" impact-rated socket, two 1/2" drive extensions that were supported onto a jack stand. The Harbor Freight Pittsburg 1/2" breaker bar was used to drive it. A square hitch extender tube was put over the handle of the breaker bar and a 6' pipe was put into the other end of the hitch extender. My considerable weight was applied and It worked. That breaker bar, extensions and socket held up to the abuse and did the job.
I used a large 1-1/8 hitch ball wrench to hold the other side of it all. It also worked well.
PB Blaster doesn't rank very high in penetrant tests. Save your money for FT parts.
https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
I've been using ATF/acetone brew for 20+ years and have yet failed to get positive results, other than the acetone evaporates quickly in the oil squirt can. DWMYH. Woody.
All extensions are not created equal. Most standard extensions absorb the twisting motion of the impact. The extensions for impact use generally have a locking button end and flex much less than a normal extension. If your using two you are doubling the lost motion. The same goes if you are using a swivel adapter. More loss. Short impact socket directly on the impact will produce much higher numbers. I honestly do not recall splitting a nut in the past 40 years. Propane torch and kroil or better yet mouse milk. Several heat cool cycles and they come off or twist the fastener off.
That was interesting Woody and I have never had heat fail me when I could use it and I concentrate
the heat more than he did.
On the Milwaukee M18 Impacts subject. Back when I bought mime there were two models. They both looked alike. One had the killer torque as mentioned above and the other not so much. I believe I paid around $800+ for it when I got it. They had just come on the market at the time. I could not believe how much cheaper that they are now.
I'm a Bus Grease Monkey addict on the u-toobs. To see the rusted stuff on 60 y/o buses that those guys get loose boggles the mind.
Great show and they work miracles on those rust buckets :D
+1. On the Bus Grease Monkey UT show. Can't relate much to the Detroit diesel stuff but much of his other work relates.
And yes there's some real rust buckets out there.
I have the 2767 model A and do love it.
Milwaukee accountants redesigned the 2767 to a model B to save a few bucks. They immediately regretted it, pulled store inventories of the B models and switched back to the A model.
Check your Serial number. If you have a H96A then all is good. If you have a H96B, reach out to Milwaukee and you'll (supposedly) get a new A model.
More details here: Milwaukee 2767 M18 Fuel Impact Wrench Issue: Official Response (https://www.protoolreviews.com/milwaukee-2767-m18-fuel-impact-wrench-issue-official-response/)
Really interesting on the video, but real world is different. Salts and time have a way with fasteners. Anti seize regardless of type is beneficial. I always seem to be way past double the installation torque on fasteners that aren't playing nice. Propane torch, typically what spray lube is available at that moment and freeze spray on the tough ones. Also sticking it with a hammer seems to wake them up or makes me feel better, not sure which. Then repeat till they release.
I did the last corner today in record time. I went out and bought the Milwaukee impact gun that Woody suggested and it did manage to break all the bolts loose on its own, albeit with a bit of patience required. Feels good to have this behind me and hopefully the last time I ever pull these fenders
Nice work Elliot! It always feels great to tackle a big project with success. Glad the last corner went well. I love my Milwaukee beast impact. It hasn't let.me.down yet!
My Milwaukee is a 2762-20 from 2014. Specs say max of 600ft-lbs of torque...nothing like the newest ones!