Hello to all,
I have been doing service work on our 2001 U295 8.3 cummins. I did a brake test and it passed, but now the engine will not crank.
confused...
Bob
Always check the battery connections first. This means taking them off and cleaning the terminals. How about the silver solenoid under the dash top? It has to click when you turn the key to the run position.
Pierce
Did you do anything other than the brake test?
An '01 has 2 black solid state ignition solenoids rather than the old style. They are located behind the removable kick panel in front of the passengers seat.
Mike
I will check battery, don't think thats it as it started fine. I did a oil change and transmission filters/fluids. Coach had been running about 15 minutes then shut it off, did brake test, it passed. (This was the first time I had done the brake test as the coach is new to me.) Turned key off, waited a minute then, turned key to on, waited for lights to go out and gauges to settle, turned key to start and it did nothing. Sorry I am a slow typer.
Bob
Neutral safety switch?
jk
For troubleshooting purpose turn the ignition switch to the run position. Go out and see if the remote start button will start the engine. Report back your findings.
Mike
When the started doesn't work I always use a jumper to jump the starter solenoid. If it starts I know
the batteries, battery cables, solenoid and starter are good. Then I check the ignition switch and then
check the solenoid that in my coach is under the bed. The other day I went to start my coach and I heard
that solenoid click but nothing, the second time I tried it fired up and it has every time since.
If it doesn't turn over it is one of those things.
Time for a dumb question!
What brake test are we talking about?
Tim
Sorry folks I was out in the shop where I don't have any service. I will have to trace the starter wires back to the solenoid, there are two under the bed I was looking at and I am new to this unit. Not sure which one it is. I will double check the remote with key on in the morning as I am in for the night. The brake test I did was on RV safety, you tube video. Run coach to get air up, shut engine down with tires blocked, park brake off, push brake and hold for a minute watching for air drop, next is to pump brake and see when spring brake sets as you lose air pressure.
Thanks to all for you help as I have been trying to get it ready for a trip. Lots to learn.
Bob
The brake test wouldn't have anything to do with it not cranking over.
What Bob describes in Reply #9 above is probably a truncated version of the "CDL" air brake test that is included in some motorhome driving license tests. I don't know about Bob's home state, but in Texas we have to take a Class B Non-CDL driving test to be legal driving most Foretravel models. Depending on where you take it, the test sometimes (but not always) includes an "Air Brake Test" before the actual driving portion. This test is described in section
5.3.3 – Step 7 Final Air Brake Check of the
Texas Commercial Motor Vehicle Drivers Handbook. Even though the handbook is written for commercial vehicles, the air brake test is also a good way to verify the proper operating condition of the air brake system on motorhomes.
https://www.dps.texas.gov/internetforms/forms/dl-7c.pdf
And then you added "The brake test I did was on RV safety, you tube video. Run coach to get air up, shut engine down with tires blocked, park brake off, push brake and hold for a minute watching for air drop, next is to pump brake and see when spring brake sets as you lose air pressure."
And I write Thank YOU! May I come and give you a hug?
At this point it's all grunt work. Since I have one, I would hook a a remote start switch to the starter solenoid and push the button with the ignition off. If the engine turns over on the starter everything from the battery to the starter is good. Next, since the gauges cycle, I'd pull the plug on the ignition switch and using a short piece of wire jump from the battery to the starter terminal and see if the engine turns. If not then I'd move the transmission selector level through all of its positions and return to neutral and try again. If no joy then bypass the neutral safety switch temporarily. Having had someone I trust turn the key to the start position while I check for power at the neutral safety switch.
Bob,
Please tell us exactly how far into the start process you get:
Dash lights up as normal when key turned on.
Allison shift pad illuminates with "N".
Starter "clicks".
Starter turns over the engine, but no start.
What is chassis battery voltage?
Any change in process when boost switch is on?
Good morning to all,
Battery voltage is 12.7 volts, Key on and all gauges and lights come on as normal. Starter will Not crank when I rotate key to start. Pushing boost did not make a difference. With key on and ready to start remote start will not engage starter either.
Under the bed there are three solenoids, one down low silver in color and two black that I think are for the engine preheat.
I see power on both side of the silver solenoid with key off which I thought was the starter solenoid.??? Shifter does show N
Need some wisdom,
Bob
I have no cell service inside my neighbor's shop unless I am near a window. As I am new to the Forum not sure if its ok to list my cell... 765-491-5511
Jack suggested the neutral safety switch. Try moving the shifter into drive and then back to neutral. Every now and then I need to do that in my coach.
On my coach the solenoid in the top left corner is for the starter circuit. There is 2 small posts
in front of the solenoid. One goes to ground and the other energizes the solenoid. Take a jumper
find power somewhere and touch the post that doesn't go to ground. The solenoid should click
and the the starter should engage. If it doesn't engage I would use the jumper and jump the 2
side posts. That will tell you if it is that solenoid that is bad. If it doesn't turn over the problem
is down stream from there and if turns over the problem is up stream from there. Try that and
then we can go from there.
On our 1995 U320 there is a solenoid behind the panel at the entrance steps where all of the circuit breakers are located. When that failed a few years ago a simple replacement of the solenoid solved my non-start problem. It worked perfectly for the first start one morning and then suddenly failed a few minutes later after connecting our towed vehicle.
So I had a moment and called. It ended up being a bad starter solenoid and it has the direct drive starter motor. Tapped It with a hammer and sprung back to life once more. I don't know 100% that it is the same as the ISM but it was difficult for me to look up the correct number. If anyone knows the AC Delco part number for the geared starter it would be helpful. 2001 295
Scott
Ok, problem found. bendix on starter was sticking. (like an old chevy I use to have) verified power to small wire on bendix was present with key to run. Tapped it with hammer while key to run and she started right up. What a relief, Scott in Las Vegas called and said if it was OEM I should get the newer version which is much better.
Thanks to all for the support and feed back.
Bob
Not sure how to insert aa picture??? still learning, don't see a paperclip to attach a picture.
Delco Remy P/N 3921402 Looks orignal
Bob
Bob,
Go to "Forum Instruction Manual" section of the forum. Several discussions on how to post pictures.
Thanks Brett, I will.
Bob
picture of starter
Delco Replacements for CUMMINS 3921402 | Delco Remy (https://www.delcoremy.com/product/detailsxref/104/3921402)
Upgraded looks to be
8200433 39MT Starter Motor | Product Details | Delco Remy (https://www.delcoremy.com/product/product-details/8200433)