I worked out a deal with my winter storage owner and will be doing some maintenance on the coach in a dry concrete floor pole barn. (No heat but still better than my driveway in MN winter!) I was able to stop by briefly today and just took a look around the engine bay to make a mental note of things and snap some pics.
I am noticing some small oil leaks from a few spots. Want to see if there are any major concerns.
1. Ride height valves. I assume this means there was or is oil in the air system. Major deal? Better than water!
2. Air dryer dump hose. I noticed a small wet spot under this hose on the floor. When I parked it I dumped the bags with the hwh panel. I am assuming this blew some oil out of the dryer. The dryer was serviced in 2020 and I was planning on replacing the cartridge but perhaps a rebuild or replacement is in order? Major concern?
3. Transmission retarder solenoid. This is seeping out of the end it appears. What is the end of that? Major concern?
4. Transmission input thingy. Appears to be what I assume is an oring leaking. No drips but definitely a strong seep. Easy fix?
Thanks for any feedback!
I would rebuild or replace the air dryer. Our U295 has/had similar leaks at the ride height valves and dryer. The 8.3 has a Type E compressor and needs a dryer to match it or it will pass oil. The dryer had been replaced on ours with the wrong type. Definitely check that first.
In your second pic, is that an exhaust manifold bolt just hanging there loose?
To add to what Dave posted,
If that is the correct dryer set up for the compressor, you need to check the isolation valve for failure. You have the proper factory hoses for the isolation valve (isolation valve is on the dryer where the hose from the compressor connects) If this valve is stopped working it can cause the compressor to pump oil. If the compressor is pumping oil like it appears replace dryer.
#4 if that is the input electrical connection you are showing then yes there is an O ring seal that can be replaced. It could be the wire bushing that seals the wire off to the connector that could be leaking and is replaceable.
Mike
Not on your list but would definitely bite the bullit and get the Koni FSD shocks,it will be a huge improvement.
They should call Dave "SHARP-EYED" - good catch!
Good spot on the bolt.
I am completely confused by how you might have oil in your air system. Especially that much all the way out at a ride height control valve. How is that even possible?
Someone may have sprayed it at some point,you can take the rubber cap off and stick a finger inside and feel for oil,if you actually have oil coming from there it's time to completely rebuild the drier,you need the 2 kits and the isolation valve,valve can be found on Ebay.
Possible coming from the air compressor bad rings and air dryer passing it through. Look at the bottom of the air dryer. Looks like a lot of oil.
My first thought about oil in the air was it would make finding air leaks easy. Then I thought about the air going in and out of the air bags. I could see oil going in but not coming out and leaving oil in the bags.
That's the only scenario I can see too. At least the solenoid plungers are well lubed!
If a lot of oil is going through the air dryer it should show up when the wet tank is drained.
Regarding your exhaust manifold pretty typical of these one piece manifolds breaking the end bolts due to shrinkage (the end bolts get pulled to center). Two piece manifolds are not available for your year 8.3 Cummins. Just had to address the same repair, didn't seem to matter how much I sprayed the bolts before removal still ended up with seven broken bolts. There is a upgraded one piece manifold with reinforcement between the exhaust ports to help with the issue.
I think the one broken bolt that I noticed had broke sitting in the driveway since it hadn't moved at all.
Cummins C8.3 Exhaust Manifold (https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?manufacturer=cummins&model=c8-3&inventorytype=exhaust-manifold&wcf=parentmodel)
Just wondering here. Anyone tried using Socket Head Cap Screws? Is the hardness and tensile strength better than the hex head bolts? 39-45 HRC for sizes to 1/2" (per Holo-Krome)
Also, I discovered that an inadequate chamfer of the part hole the bolt is going into can cause bolt breakage, because there is normally a radius under any bolt head.
In general it's common for a diesel engine to have small oil leaks some easy to stop some not but doesn't hinder operation BUT you have to get that air supply and system cleaned up. Already been said how to do that.
Since we're on the oil leak topic.
We recently scheduled an appointment with Cummins to resolve an oil leak with our 8.3. I originally thought it was the timing cover so I had it resealed in Texas 2 years ago but that didn't solve it.
The Cummins tech used die and confirmed my new diagnosis,, it's the timing CASE. We'll I was prepared to have the fix it but the estimate was , wait for it.
$5200 and change.
It's coming from behind the idler pulley so I'm going to try cleaning it thoroughly and using a pray sealer. Any other ideas are welcome.
I know 5200 will buy a lot of oil but I hate leaks and so do some RV Parks.
Is the case steel or aluminum?
Steel can be brazed or welded.
I've repaired cracked aluminum oil pans and valve covers with aluminum epoxy putty. Made by J-B Weld and others. The key is the preparation. Look up Youtube videos for tips on how to apply.
Amazon.com: Hy-Poxy H-450 Alumbond 6.5 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Hy-Poxy-H-450-Alumbond-Aluminum-Repair/dp/B001RMITIA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=HY-POXY&qid=1671046517&sr=8-4&th=1)
Chuck.
The case is aluminum but the tech did tell me that he thought it was the original paper gasket that may have failed. They use a new one that is metal with a rubber edge of sorts.
He didn't endorse any product but did say that prep / cleaning was the key. Two days to remove that thing, clean and new gasket apparently.
If you have oil under the air dryer as said above be concerned about the compressor passing oil .that's one of the first signs of a problem air compressor.
Before air driers were invented i've seen compressors pass so much oil that when you went to drain an air tank milky oil would run for 5 min before any air could be heard. Can wreck any air valve in the system plus if put in sub freezing weather the unit wont be moved.Of course if we would have had a drier it would have been over run with that much mess. On a 8.3 the compressor is a bear to get off compared to others.
Look up a product called Belzona,reccommended by Caterpillar to repair engine blocks,much better then anything out there,
used it many times.
I have suspicions the air dryer and isolation valve are junked up. I think I will just replace the entire dryer with the updated internal valve. I say that is step one. Also will pull lines at compressor and check for blockages. Will also drain wet tank and see how much oil.
If the compressor is bad I assume I can rebuild it. Anyone know what the compressor model number is for my coach?
I noticed the exhaust bolt after I posted that pic! It's not loud but I will be taking a closer look next trip out. Unless several are broken or manifold is cracked I prob won't touch that yet....
Anyone know more about the retarder solenoid leak? Should I worry?
I'll look up oring for the transmission leak. I need to do the transynd swap and new filter too.
Not sure if I'm going to tackle airbags and shocks yet ..they are due but I might just carry some spare bags for emergency repair for now. It is high on the list but would prefer to do in the summer.
I also will be digging into the dredded vibration issue with my suspected P3 bearing problem. Lots to do. Trying to leave in Feb. Also doing massive maint overhaul on my new to me Suzuki Samurai before the trip!
That will fix itself when the dryer/compressor issue is corrected. Every time the retarder is used the solenoid activated and releases air thus another spot. With your coach being built during a swap over year you will have to check the compressor tag as there were 2 different compressors used. As far as the dryer with the isolation valve internal the old style like you have presently will be less of a headache in the long run but dwmyh.
Mike
Great feedback, thanks for the details Dave and Mike! I will check the model I have next trip to the barn. I need to get some parts ordered asap so I can get going on this!
Noah....when you do the Transynd and filters....take look at the bottom seal after pulling the filters..early transmission had square seals on the filter base and they are not supplied in the filter kit that your going to buy ,only the round seals are supplied. They cannot be used if it has the square seals.
Hope that helps..
Hans
Today I was able to stop by the barn where the coach is stored and crawled under and verified the compressor model. It is indeed a E-Type compressor (#355802 Holset Type E SS296C) This means I for sure need either an air dryer with the inline external isolation (ECON) valve or a newer model dryer that is compatible with the E-type compressor. The model number I am coming up with is that I need a DA33200X dryer. This appears to be unavailable anywhere online. The other option is to get a DA33100X and a new isolation valve.
I am leaning against replacing it with the valve again as I read that the valve can have issues, especially in cold weather on longer trips. Since I plan on doing this I think I want an updated model dryer with the integral system that allows the E-type compressor to run properly. My guess based on everything I am reading is that my isolation valve is stuck and the compressor is dumping oil into the dryer.
SO, the question is does anyone know of a replacement dryer that is compatible with my compressor other than the Haldex DA33200X? Or should I just get the thing out and tore down and see if rebuilding perhaps is the route to go?
I used a DA34200. Looks like NAPA might have them.
That looks like model that would work. I really like the idea of having the spin on/off filter of the 33200 rather than the bolted 34200. I am leaning towards pulling apart and rebuilding the current unit and replacing the econ valve.
If you decide to diy you will need the DQ 6026 and the DQ 6020 kits. Don't forget to replace or rebuild the Is olation valve. KN 23500
Mike
These are the exact part numbers I came up with, thanks for confirming! I just placed the order and I think the rebuild is worth it for only $287!