Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: dlkj07 on December 24, 2022, 08:25:57 pm
Title: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: dlkj07 on December 24, 2022, 08:25:57 pm
After doing some reading on here about coolant for the ISM I think it's time. I didn't think it was a big deal until I started reading about cylinder liners, cavitation, SCA, ELC, red, yellow, green, etc...mind exploding.
So when I first bought coach PO told me there's a jug of Prestone concentrate that he already premixed in one of the bays to top off if needed. This is the jug: Amazon.com: Prestone AF888-6PK Dex-Cool Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon, (Pack... (https://a.co/d/hoXRNJ6)
I never thought to ask if this is actually what's in the motor during pickup and he has not returned my calls for quite some time so I can't ask him. Lots of discussion on here about this topic and like many other high profile topics I sometimes leave confused....like reading Amazon reviews, who do you believe!!
So one thing that most are consistent about on this topic is if you don't know what's in there change it! Now that I've learned about this some I really should have done this sooner, but maybe I'm over reacting. I haven't had any over heating issues up to this point but I know it's the gremlin under the sheets that could be doing damage...and by then it's too late.
I wanted to try and use a coolant that is readily available, an ELC and meets the requirements of my ISM so I settled on this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ZRXZXED1 It's Cummins approved, labeled as an ELC, and not too hard on the wallet...if I don't get flogged for incompetence then I will proceed.
...the coolant filter installed is a WF2123 which is a non SCA type....which leads me to believe the installed coolant is non SCA but of course I can't take the chance so it's all getting replaced.
If the coolant looks fine, which it does, but I wanted to flush using one of the Cummins Restore products, which one would you recommend? I'm leaning toward just using Restore over Restore plus since I don't have any signs of oil contamination....is that a correct assumption?
Thanks again for any feedback and Merry X-Mas 🎄
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: oldguy on December 24, 2022, 08:41:02 pm
I am using the extended like antifreeze pink in color as that is what the coach came with and if it had come with the green antifreeze that is what I would use. I found out that you need the right filter to go with what ever antifreeze you use.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: Dave Larsen on December 25, 2022, 07:01:07 am
The Zerex says it is good for 3 years before needing extender added. It will be better than Dex-cool if that's really what is in there. If it were mine, I'd use Peak Final Charge Global which is guaranteed for 8 years. Flushing with Restore should be fine.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: John44 on December 25, 2022, 07:22:22 am
We use the EScompleat OAT,CC36077,this is by Fleetguard and is what the Cummins dealer sells,is readily availible on Amazon and Ebay,as is the Restore.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: wolfe10 on December 25, 2022, 09:04:54 am
For those using one of the extended life/OAT-based coolant (highly recommended), please read all the "when to add an extender".
For most, it is 3 years OR 300,000 miles.
When I worked with Caterpillar Corp on the maintenance presentations I did for FMCA, they shared that the second part of that (the miles) was more important than time for their Caterpillar ELC. They found that many RV'ers were "over-dosing" their coolant by adding the extender.
Said another way, they had me change the slide to say, "In an RV application, unless you drive 300,000 miles on the coolant, add NOTHING. So, good for 6 years with zero checking/adding/maintenance."
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: Barry & Cindy on December 25, 2022, 12:31:37 pm
One issue to manage is where to dispose of so much coolant drainings as it can hurt animals and is not legal to drain on ground, so be aware and have a plan.
For our big coolant change, we also used ES Compleat, kept a container label in engine compartment so future fills are with same product. We always carried two full gallons for topping off overflow bottle if needed.
We used to use Pre-mix coolant, so the water quality was not an issue. But since we cannot drain all water from coolant system, now think that using the correct # of full-concentrate gallons and topping off with gallons of distilled water guarantees a better 50-50 mix. Some even do a final water flush using distilled water, to better assure the residual water quality after last drain is improved.
We remove gallon's cap and used an inexpensive short plastic ball valve fitting on container, held gallon upside down into big corner space behind tail lamp, and opened/closed valve to pour an amount into overflow container.
For our one-time flushing, we used both types of Fleetguard products (acid & alkaline ??). Drain radiator, add one cleaner, fill with water, drive for 20 minutes. Repeat with other cleaner. Fill with only water, repeat drive, drain, do it again and drain.
We learned to drive up mountains keeping an eye on RPM and Exhaust Gas Temp, always downshifting, even into an occasional 2nd gear, which kept coolant gauge temps at normal 180 or increase to 190. No more overheating issues for 20 years.
Our coolant filters have no additives. We never added additives. Could not get good readings from test strips. Changed coolant at 4-6 years. Seldom added coolant to overflow. Made sure rad cap, overflow lines are in good quality. Did see coolant rise and fall in overflow container with a switchable 12v florescent lamp mounted behind overflow container. Also kept a dowel rod in coolant overflow container that acted like a dip stick to know coolant level.
Measure coolant mix with inexpensive float gauge and keep mix at about 50-50, as much over that, protection declines. Coolant increases boiling point a lot, and lowers freeze point, so proper mix is needed even if one never is never in freezing temps.
ES Compleat has several products, some like Oat.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: Dub on December 25, 2022, 01:35:48 pm
You are on the right track. Coolant is every bit as important as motor oil. While doing it change coolant in the generator using the extended life you put in the Cummins.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: dlkj07 on December 25, 2022, 03:37:57 pm
Quote
One issue to manage is where to dispose of so much coolant drainings as it can hurt animals and is not legal to drain on ground, so be aware and have a plan.
For our big coolant change, we also used ES Compleat, kept a container label in engine compartment so future fills are with same product. We always carried two full gallons for topping off overflow bottle if needed.
We used to use Pre-mix coolant, so the water quality was not an issue. But since we cannot drain all water from coolant system, now think that using the correct # of full-concentrate gallons and topping off with gallons of distilled water guarantees a better 50-50 mix. Some even do a final water flush using distilled water, to better assure the residual water quality after last drain is improved.
We remove gallon's cap and used an inexpensive short plastic ball valve fitting on container, held gallon upside down into big corner space behind tail lamp, and opened/closed valve to pour an amount into overflow container.
For our one-time flushing, we used both types of Fleetguard products (acid & alkaline ??). Drain radiator, add one cleaner, fill with water, drive for 20 minutes. Repeat with other cleaner. Fill with only water, repeat drive, drain, do it again and drain.
We learned to drive up mountains keeping an eye on RPM and Exhaust Gas Temp, always downshifting, even into an occasional 2nd gear, which kept coolant gauge temps at normal 180 or increase to 190. No more overheating issues for 20 years.
Our coolant filters have no additives. We never added additives. Could not get good readings from test strips. Changed coolant at 4-6 years. Seldom added coolant to overflow. Made sure rad cap, overflow lines are in good quality. Did see coolant rise and fall in overflow container with a switchable 12v florescent lamp mounted behind overflow container. Also kept a dowel rod in coolant overflow container that acted like a dip stick to know coolant level.
Measure coolant mix with inexpensive float gauge and keep mix at about 50-50, as much over that, protection declines. Coolant increases boiling point a lot, and lowers freeze point, so proper mix is needed even if one never is never in freezing temps.
ES Compleat has several products, some like Oat.
Good info sir, I also have Brett's detailed instructions bookmarked for coolant flush and replacement...doesn't look too complicated just time consuming and monotonous.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: wolfe10 on December 25, 2022, 04:24:25 pm
Good info sir, I also have Brett's detailed instructions bookmarked for coolant flush and replacement...doesn't look too complicated just time consuming and monotonous.
Absolutely true.
One of the better "do it yourself jobs" as you would not want to pay a tech for the time to do it to "best practices" standards.
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: dlkj07 on December 25, 2022, 04:56:27 pm
Should there be a big fuss on Nitrate free coolant? Some of these coolants don't mention if they have it or not, others have a "Nitrate free" version...big deal or not?
Title: Re: 2001 U320 coolant replacement
Post by: wolfe10 on December 25, 2022, 05:45:49 pm
Should there be a big fuss on Nitrate free coolant? Some of these coolants don't mention if they have it or not, others have a "Nitrate free" version...big deal or not?
Not qualified to get into the chemistry.
But, if it is one of the newer-generation long life/OAT-based coolants (basically 6 year no maintenance) I am fine with that.