Hello,
I'm having an issue with the fridge in my '96 U320. Original fridge, but some components have been replaced by the previous owner. The fridge was working fine on shore power and gas, then I relocated the coach and plugged back into shore power without turning the fridge on. Waited about a week or longer before turning on the fridge only to find it will not turn on. I have searched extensively online for tips on this, and I can find nothing. Numerous people on Youtube have shown a reset switch for Dometic refrigerators, but I cannot find one for this one. Not inside and not outside via the access panel. I have removed numerous covers in the access and I see no button. I also see no fuses aside from the two on the control board. I have some seen people mention hidden fuses, but again I cannot locate such fuses in the locations they show.
DOMETIC 2-Way Elite RM 7832
SYMPTOMS:
When I push the "On/Off" switch for the refrigerator no lights come on for a few seconds. After a few seconds the light for the last coldness setting comes on and the fridge does a click and then the light goes off. This is not consistent. Sometimes it takes a few seconds, sometimes more seconds. Sometimes the inside light turns on if the door is open, sometimes not. The fridge never actually starts, and I cannot switch from AC to gas or Auto. The check light does not come on.
CHECKS:
I have checked and reset the circuit breaker numerous times in the main panel for the fridge, and in the sub panel for the ice maker.
I have killed all power from the circuit panel, both main and sub completely, then reset every single breaker.
I have verified both fuses on the control board for the fridge are good.
I see no obvious signs of a wiring issue aside from a green and yellow wire that had a screw terminal connector broken. I checked the wiring diagram and it seems this is a wire from the compressor to ground. I put a new terminal end on it and attached it to a ground, which seems to be the location where it was before.
Can anyone help with this? As I said, it worked fine before then mysteriously stopped after relocation. One caveat here is we had a very cold spell last week. Down to 3 degrees F. The coach was in use the entire time, but the fridge was not on. I was unaware of this issue until after then, and I'm not sure if the cold would have caused an issue. From what I have read the cold should not affect it. The coach is level.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Check for 12+ VDC into the back of the refrigerator. Make sure connections are clean and tight.
Low voltage/poor ground to the refrigerator PC board can cause all kinds of issues.
Brett,
Thanks. I have verified 12V DC to the fridge. And I do not see or feel any loose wires, and I see no obvious corrosion or anything that would cause a bad connection. I was hoping someone else may have seen similar behavior at some point.
Thanks
I once had trouble with a metal working machine for a customer.
Seems the machine would "cut-out" when a forklift would go by or when shop temps got above a certain point.
After pulling a few hairs and several visits I finally found the problem.
Seems there were two wires supposedly being held in place on the terminal board. But the set screw was only holding one wire tightly. The other wire was just slightly loose alongside the held wire.
Obvious, but not easily diagnosed by tugging on the wires.
Start at the initial input source and double, then triple verify the contact, even if you have to physically disconnect and reconnect the components. Repeat this at each connecting point. Once all connections have been 300% verified as to being good, then a component is suspect of being the failing unit.
Possibly on /off switch is not making a proper contact, I would try giving it a good amount of exercise.
It sure sounds like an electrical problem. I'd call Dinosaur and see what they say.
Replacement boards for Dometic (http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_boards.htm)
You said that you verified 12VDC. Did you check the 120VAC feed also with a VOM. I have seen the cheep plugs that are used in the RV industry fail internally and cause similar symptoms.
Mike
A couple years ago while parked/camped in Lewisville TX we noticed the temperature was way above normal in both the fridge and freezer (Dometic). We keep wireless thermometers in both compartments. WT*!! Looked at the control panel to adjust the temperature settings, but the panel was dark. Did some research and the best guess was the fridge needed a new brain. Located a Dinosaur replacement on Amazon/eBay for about a $100 but time was of the essence, food was getting warm. Shipping would take too long so sourced a replacement from a local RV parts store for about twice as much money. Replaced the old brain with the new brain and crossed my fingers when I pushed the on button on the fridge control panel. The lights came back on, yea! Life is good. Good luck. If you buy a Dinosaur replacement board, you will betting the cost, since they don't take returns.
By brain I believe you are referring to the control board which is on the back of the fridge and accessible through the outside access door. This board can be replaced by the Dinosaur Micro P-711 for the RM7832.
However, the problem described here sounds like a faulty "eye brow" board which is located above the refer door. I have repaired my eyebrow board by replacing resisters and by soldering the unused contacts in the on/off switch which has double contacts with only one being used. I also replaced my eyebrow board when I stumbled onto one at a local RV dealer who had it in stock for years.