I installed a Balmar mc-618 external voltage regulator for the alternator. I can set it up to charge
the way I want and it has a temperature senor to protect the alternator and I could put a battery
temperature sensor too. I wasn't impressed with there wiring diagram but I was able to muddle
through
Put one on my Newell years ago when I built a 1000amphour LiFePO4 system. The Balmar worked great, lots of adjustments. A bit wonky setting it up with the magnet.
Yup, have used the Balmar external 3 stage regulators on our sailboats. Agree, using the magnet is a little unusual, but works just fine.
Magnet?
Yes, a magnet (supplied with the regulator) is used to change charge profile/programming.
Basically the same choices as programming a smart charger/inverter-charger. Just a different way of communicating with it.
It is taking me a bit to learn how to adjust it and they have parts so it can be adjusted with
a cell phone but it's pricey.
We have the MC-614 (previous model) on the Roadtrek - easy to program. From the manual:
Magnetic Reed Switch
Looking much like a small thermometer atop the regulator's circuit board, the magnetic reed switch provides a durable, sealed interface that enables the user to set basic and advanced regulator programming features.
Included with the regulator is a small screwdriver that doubles as the regulator's programming tool. A small magnet embedded in the top of the screwdriver's handle allows the user to activate the magnetic reed switch.
By holding the magnet to the RED dot located at the end of the reed switch, the tool allows the user to scroll through the regulator's various program modes and individual program selections.
I called the Balmar tech yesterday to get more tips on how to set it up and he is really helpful.
He said in float that it only charges a few amp but while talking to him I didn't think of it but
it doesn't make sense as it is a voltage regulator and doesn't read amperage. I will call him
again to find out.
Actually, it does make sense. Float is only reached after bulk and absorption phases are complete. With the reduction in voltage when going to float, amp charge rate is also reduced.
If, say, the voltage setting for bulk/absorption is 14.2 VDC and float is 13.2, after charging to 14.2 VDC, it will take very few amps to keep the battery at 13.2
I have a clamp on current sensor on the Balmar controlled alternator wired to a display on the dash. Yes, if the house batteries are discharged the current is initially high and when the house batteries are fully charged this reads almost 0 amps. If I put on a load like the microwave, the alternator will immediately go to ~150 amps to cover the load. As soon as the microwave stops the current returns to near 0. If we are stopped, say at a rest stop for lunch, we idle the engine when cooking or making coffee.
My float voltage is set at 13.8 and the voltage went down to under 13 volts and he had said
it would only charge a few amps in float and that's what made no sense. I have seen my
inverter doing 100 amps and still in float.
Agree-- that doesn't make sense. 100 amp charge rate should NOT be in float. Likely in bulk.
Unless, the batteries were fully charged and you then turned on a large 12 VDC load. That would kick up amp charge rate, but may not trigger a return to the higher voltage in bulk mode.
I agree I only saw it do that once and yes in bulk it would probably gone to 125 amps which
is have as the inverter charger goes
Peter, curious what model alt do you have the Balmar connected to? Is it the main engine alt or 2nd alt.
Main engine and when I went to get my old alternator fixed for external field he just sold me a
new alternator.