Long story short....If I ever need to chain up at the front of the coach to pull me out of trouble, how do you do it without damaging the front of the coach??
Also, if I need to get through a BIG puddle of water, how do i raise the coach , knowing I can only go 5 mph
[edited topic title to clarify - Michelle]
I would open the generator door and put two 2" hitches in the receivers in the front. Loop a tow strap or chain to evenly distribute the force across the 2 hitch points and pull it out slowly.
I terms of raising, I use the raise button every time we exit our driveway to get the passenger mirror over the gate post and to drive down the curb with my mini ramps. Go slow and smooth on the braking and it should mostly stay in raise mode. Tap the brakes too hard and you'll be quickly reaching to hit the raise button again.
I just got pulled out of a ditch and we use the front axel. We were very careful and had the
pull cable right on the ground and he used a strap instead of chains. I will look at what Bruce
said as an alternate way and as Bruce said go slow.
No, only pull with one. We always had two rings on the front of our Crowns but the time we used both. the chain pulled the two toward each other and caused $$ in body damage.
If you have to pull more than a very short distance, pull the axles and put your axle caps in place. Tow truck drivers may not won't to pull both or they may want to pull the drive shaft. Part of the reason is if you have the stainless large axle covers on, you have to remove every other lug nut to get the stainless cover off and only then can you pull the axles. They make stainless moon covers to cover the hub so it looks nice. I have two spotless large hub covers and will send them for the price of shipping.
Glenn, how is Mazatlan?
Pierce
Glen I am curious what your going to tow the coach with? I dont believe the pre 2004 coaches have the tow receivers on the front. Pulling from one side only has potential to pull say the left side of the frame rail forward. I agree with Pierce that you shouldn't pull on both frame rails if "unsupported", but should be okay if it has a supporting structure. Your coach is not a all terrain coach. Chains generally are not in my tool box for towing let alone in the 35,000 weight category. So the chain you may have probably is underrated for what you want to do. I keep cringing at the thought of a chain breaking. Pulling your car or truck with a strap , sure, coach? Call a professional and save your self some money. It also isn't rated for water crossings. Roger badly damaged his U320 coach in the water. When is the last time you inspected your air cleaner vacuator valve? Last time replaced? They are a rubber product and do fail, most probably are failed or are close. Once failed it is Easy to suck water into air filter housing. Unless they are shooting at you keep it out of the standing water. You have time to wait for the weather to change. Using the raise button should be experienced prior to needing. It is a bit wonky and will tend to go back to ride height without notice. That's its job. When at full raise position you have reduced the articulation the coach can handle. Do with caution. With suspension maxed out and locked against shock's limits chassis damage is easy to incure. These coaches were/are designed for asphalt operations. Talk to Elliot, he has first had knowledge.
Scott
From a topic 8 years ago.
1999 U320 Front Recovery Points (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23680.msg184793#msg184793)
We made long bars that fit inside the two rectangular frame members on each side of generator that have an open front end. Bars hook on inner back end of these rectangular frame members.
Then we had a bar that keeps the two long bars apart so any pulling forward does not squeeze the bars toward the center. Store is all on rear engine cross rail just inside the engine compartment door.
Barry,
Do you have any pictures of your tow bars and how they are located?
You call this guy ... https://youtu.be/JfcbHotq_wQ.
Oh ... and I don't wanna go anywhere with you, please.
Look at the link Doug W provided in Reply #5. Has good info on the towing hookup points and how to utilize.
Pierce....it's our 5th year here, so we must like it a lot. The weather, people, food, music, are all wonderful. No complaints
The question was preemptive. There was a broken water pipe creating a "lake" in the only dirt road we need to exit our RV park. No one wanted to repair it. I just wanted to know how, if and when I might ever need to get a "pull". There are lots of big tractors around here, but your concern about pulling with a chain has me wondering what could be used to pull 35000 pounds.??
I never even heard of a air cleaner vacuator valve, nor had anyone ( Keith??) recommend that I replace it. I am always open to learning how to be proactive regarding the care of this old, wonderful, machine.
You can't always get a pro to tow you, when fate comes knocking. I am still not sure what the best procedure would be, for MY year coach, if I got "stuck in the mud"
In my U295 1997 coach, what always scared me was if I had ever gotten stuck how could I get the coach unstuck without putting undue stress on the front or rear bulkheads and would they hold up to the stress.
With one new 5/16" grade 5 bolt, the tensile strength is about 6K lbs (not proof load) so unless your bulkhead fasteners are in bad shape, you should not have a problem being winched out of the sand or mud. I've pulled another RV up and over the edge of a berm where it had gone over the edge 3/4 of the way. Using our U300, because of the better reverse gear ratio, I connected a chain to ONE of our front hitch receivers and had no problem pulling it back on the road. I used a HF 2 in. Hitch Mounted D-Ring Shackle @ about $28.
Pierce
I with Pierce, I don't see any tension on the bulkheads only on the frame unless the bottom of
coach is resting on the ground.
As a senior member of the "what not do to with your Foretravel" club, my advice is to avoid any terrain that gives you even and inkling of heartburn.
If you do manage to get your Foretravel stuck, I would do absolutely everything you can to drive it out. My particular incident took a couple days to unwind but we managed to avoid serious damage by slowing down the pace of operations and incrementally working to a point that we could drive it out.
The bulkheads close off the chassis basement and structurally prevent lozenging: think open cardboard box and push on the side.
All of the strain of pushing or pulling goes into the trusses along the side. And twisting gets taken care of by the basement.
There are two 1/4"x 3" flat steel straps under the floor that I assume run the length of the coach that tie the front and rear running gear together. I marked the right side strap with chalk in picture. You'll see this strap up front just behind the steer tires running below the floor.