In the slightest amount of rain, my slide room leaks like a sieve. The seal is seems good and is pressurized. I've removed the head bolster and made sure there was no crud under the seal and that the top is clean and yet this continues. Has me stumped. Any ideas? In the meantime if there is a chance of rain, the slide comes in.
Dan, if you could tell us exactly where you see the water that would help. Under the couch area, coming from the header, etc.
Coming from the header on top.
Check and make sure the top of your slide is straight. I remember some complained of leaks and it turned out the side in the center had sagged and the seal was not tight.
Other possible problem is there is not enough pressure on the seal. I think the pressure should be 15 psi but not positive.
Okay, is it leaking from the small lights under the header? If so, the drain lines are plugged from where the locking pins fit into the recessed holes in slide when closed. When open, there is a drain line in each of those holes and if they are plugged, the water will seep down through those lights, etc. If that is the case, a quick fix is to use some duck tape and cover those holes. Just remember to open them up when getting ready to close the slide. Hope this helps. You will have to blow those lines out eventually from the bottom up to clear them and that will fix your issue if that is the cause! If not from the light area, then you have a gap in seal like turbojack mentioned.
Thanks guys! It's not coming through the lights, it comes all the way to the inside edge - on the coach side of the seal and drips heavily on my couch - it is close to midway of the slide. Last time I pulled that bolster the seal looked good, no light, etc.
Had some surprise rain last night that caught me off guard but fortunately the front has passed and no rain in the forecast. I have some other issues with my aux pump so I am adding gauges...but didn't get to it before this trip. Maybe next week when I'm back home after I swap out the Microphor.
This might be your issue: I was at FOT in Dec getting my Masters degree in repairing slide design deficiencies. The early slide top extension stops were angle iron "locks" inside the slide top edge, with v'd edge which bumped into the aluminum bladder channel in the wall...aluminum channel was insufficient to support the weight of extended slide room roof once the bladder inflated. The new gen bladder seals are even more forceful. On mine the middle of the roof of the slide room had sagged enough over the years so that the locks missed the groove, and if bowed down a little more the top of the slide room could just tip completely out. This was almost impossible to see without removing the inner bolster, or going outside on a step ladder with the slide out and lifting the wiper strip in the center of the slide. You can also sight down the length of the slide top from front to back. There was a 1/4"-3/8" gap all around, but a 3/4" gap on top center where the slide top sagged!!! Water finds a way.
If this is your case, leaning the coach to driver side when parked can help, but depending on the inboard sag, wouldn't stop your leak...unless you lean it A LOT.
After repairing the coach floor rot, FOT fab'ed 3 Z brackets which now lock into the steel wall structure instead of aluminum channel, and pulls firmly up the center roof of the slide when extended. Now the slide room roof doesn't sag, the gap is uniform 360, and the top is tight. Can take some borescope pictures if interested.
To hopefully clarify the improved slide out-locks, here's a couple pictures I snapped of the structures. Now that I've just had the floor repaired, these new out-locks installed, and a new bladder (3 years ago), I have a leak free coach and am glad I have the slide back working in Bluto the Bus after a 3 month hiatus...so is Sitka. Be safe and dry out there y'all.
An off-topic exchange, with several snarky posts, was deleted. Please stay on topic.
Mine did the same thing, looked like Niagara falls first time it rained afyer I bought it. Two things the fiberglass around locking pins is warped and need sealed or the inside behind the long trim is bowed. Mine had both . The center poorly designed hooks that have to latch over the seal retainer were not engaging allowing a slight bow to the slide but enough to let in a lot of water in. I took off the hooks and bent and reamed the holes out where they would adjust. Once I did that the center came up and the seal was tight, no more water. My locking pins were also leaking so fixed them.
Just goes to show you how important an inspection is before buying. Luckily I can fix most anything so didn't cost me much. Sometimes you just can't trust a previous owner to reveal everything.
Larry
Woody - Thanks for the detailed info!
Larry - I've had my coach for a few years now and try to do as much work as I can on it.
I was not seeing a bow last I looked. When I get back home I'll pull the bolster and get a straight edge on it then give a little rinse and see if is coming under the seal or from somewhere else. Will be a good chance to check the pin hole seals and any drain holes as well along with confirming PSI in my bladder. Anything else??
Put a rag over the top pin holes when you blow them out from the bottom. It tends to throw gunk everywhere.
Rich