For a few years my hydraulic fans for the radiator have been leaking. It's just a drip but I want to get that taken care of. I don't see any posts on that repair. I know there are two fans, and one is more expensive that the other.
Thanks
Another Radiator Fan Motor Seal Replacement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40356.0)
Here is another
hydraulic fan motor (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27326.0)
To just reseal is not too expensive but accessing is a pain.
Our fan motors were seeping when we bought the coach several years ago, and they still seep just about the same. My plan is to repair them when they start dripping, or when I have a a week of free time.
I have already bought the seals and keep them in the coach. I have read stories about shops insisting on replacing the motors instead of simply resealing them.
I have wondered if it would be possible to remove the fans and reseal the motors without removing them. That would save A LOT of time and grime.
Mine had been seeping since I bought the coach so I did them last spring. the seals are cheep and
can be bought at any seal shop. At the same time I changed the filters with the new oil. The cost in
changing them is all labor. While I had the trans cooler out I sent it out and had it cleaned and checked
and when I put it back I hung it from the frame instead of the radiator and I also built a radiator support
designed by Scott. Also serviced the trans
FWIW "The Shoppe" has to guarantee the repair in some form or other. If the bearings are loose the seals won't last very long. But given the low number of hours versus the number of years on those fan motors, replacing the seals, oil and filters is more likely than not to cure the problem.
Only if you remove the radiator. the fans are right up against it.
I am just playing with ideas at this point. Could a person unbolt the motor bracket (is is four bolts?), move it inward, remove the fans, re-bolt the motors temporarily and replace the seals.
I am probably due for replacement of hydraulic oil and filters. But it would be cool to know if a person could reseal in an afternoon, in a campsite, on a tarp. Or at home, if the oil and filters were recently replaced.
I don't see any short cuts. The trans cooler has to be removed first so that means draining the
coolant, I think you could tie the cooler out of the way so you don't have to remove the trans
hoses, I took it out as it's and old cooler so I had it cleaned and tested. As they have been seeping
for years the pump should be OK as if it wasn't it would be leaking badly. Mine are bone dry now.
For a few minute job, it takes hours to get at it.
With a combination of what Matt and Peter suggest you can get the seals out, BUT you have to drive the seal in straight. There isn't enough room and support to properly drive in the seal. That along with the lack cleanness you are set up to be worse off than when starting the job. Do it on a shop bench and save yourself a lot of grief.
Mike
My fan started with occasional drip, I ignored it and went on my trip anyway. It let loose halfway down to Florida and dumped several gallons of oil all over my towed.
Got a tow to a shop and spent several days waiting for the $5000 part to get expressed from Foretravel. We were lucky. We had the time, the money, a good mechanic and (most importantly) Foretravel had the elusive fan motor in stock.
I replaced the second fan when I got home. No rebuilds for me.