Well my quest to fix that pex line that a mouse chewed through has turned into a utility bay rebuild. I have a few questions right now:
- How do I disconnect the cable in my hand from the dump valve? I need do so in order to feed it back through the new wall I'm putting in
- On the drains coming from both the black and gray tanks, there is what appears to be a pressure switch mounted onto the pvc pipe with a few wires coming out of it. What is it for? (see second picture)
- Is the Aqua Hot register in this bay controlled by the thermostat on the other side? (by the manibloc)
1. How did you remove it from the old wall panel? I have electric valves so can't help with the cable operated valves.
2. That is the transducer for the javelin tank level system.
3. On my coach both basement heat exchangers are connected to the single thermostat on the curb side.
You just loosen up those screws where it goes into the dump valve and loosen up the allen set screw
where the heavy wire goes into the dump valve rod. Yes the heater core is controlled from the
thermostat controller on the other side and I don't have an answer for the #2 question
Thanks guys
Option B
Water leak (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=45046.0)
Scott you must be reading my mind. I want to do a 1-piece panel that those mount to but was still looking for a solve that doesn't require extending the cable length to allow for the panel to come out. Thank you
It worked perfect. With our slide truss in the way it is quite difficult to remove and reinstall. I just take the handles off and unscrew the mount screws and the cable slips out of the way. I never once removed the way you are suppose to, well actually I guess you haven't either. I removed from valve when I installed new. They were leaking at the shaft seal when dumping a little.
Check out Roger's 3 piece mod in this thread: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic) (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25056.msg197677#msg197677)
I copied it and glad I did...been bay diving several times in the past year to resolve stuck valves, broken cables, etc and this makes it a lot easier to gain access without unhooking everything. I used aircraft type nut plates instead of self tappers. Have dimensions to take to a metal fabber if interested. Woody.
Thanks for the link woody. I never found the thread in my searches and it was before I joined the forum.
I wish I had never seen it. Ill never be satisfied till I do mine with the three piece panel mod. That is real nice and functional. Stock is terrible and my prior mod was a easy patch. But the three piece panel is perfect. Next time im forced to go in ill build a copy. Roger is a outstanding craftsman. I still will eventually follow him on his replacement table top. Just stunning. Wish he was posting again.
Scott
I semi copied Roger but leave the middle panel off so I can see everything that's behind the bottom plate. For dumping the tanks I just reach in and pull the valve handle. Works for me. I can close it up with the middle panel but prefer to leave it open
That might be my next winter project. It would cancel the jinx I did talking about how reliable my electric valves have been. I would be able to manually operate them in an emergency by just removing the center panel if I left it on.
I have the center piece that's bent to fit, just haven't installed it yet. Thinking of using rare earth magnets (4) to hold in place instead of screws. And I should change the white silicone to black.