I'm dewinterizing my U320 and can't get hot water for long. The AH is firing as expected and circulating warm coolant to the registers. When we have a tap call for hot water it goes hot briefly and then turns cold. I have tried removing the burner and turning the mixing valve knob back and forth a few times to no avail. Is it time for a new mixing valve? I vaguely recall somebody just replacing the valve guts?
When I thought I was going to replace mine, I found this one. Looks like you could swap the guts from one body to another.
Mixing Valve, Lead Free Brass: Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial &... (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DBSPVYS)
Many of us have done that. If you have a Grainger near you here is a cheaper option.
https://www.grainger.com/product/26X141?gucid=N:N:FPL:Free:GGL:CSM-1946:tew63h3:20501231
That's exactly what I did also. Guts only
Thanks guys
Elliott
Hopefully that solves your issues!
When that happened to me there was an extreme sediment buildup in the ah loops which could not be removed. Sad story....require the Ah loops to be replaced. Mega coach bucks
Good luck....
Elliott; do you believe you might still have air in the lines to those faucets? Just a thought. I also replaced the guts on mine, but if you had warm heat at the registers, not sure if that is the issues. Just thinking out loud. Good luck and please post what you find.
Good question and one that gave me pause when I started troubleshooting this. I don't think that's the case though because I have great pressure, even with the faucet set all the way to hot. I suppose I could shut off the cold line at the manibloc to confirm. I'll do that today, thanks Joe
The repair kit is also available Watts LF70A-RK (https://www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/repair-kits/rk-lf70a/lf70a-rk-12-34)
Good find, here is where it can be bought,
Watts 1/2 in. to 3/4 in. Repair Kit for Lead-Free Tempering Valve (https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Repair-Lead-Free-Tempering-Valve/dp/B00OPFEE8K/ref=asc_df_B00OPFEE8K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807668151&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18228260919511600359&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031146&hvtargid=pla-681331188631&psc=1)
You might consider doing the vinegar wash thing too.
Process to do it in reply #45 at: FIXED - low water flow inside coach - both shore and water pump 2003 U320 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=39137.25)
Thanks guy, I'm planning on the acid wash later this spring. I have company in the coach for the next few weeks and don't want to bring the water system down to do it right now.
Quick question as I prep to replace the valve guts today: are there any secrets to correctly setting the valve position after I install the new guts? Adjusting the valve is a real pain to do given it's location under the burner so I'd rather not do it by trial/error and removing the burner multiple times.
Before you take the old one apart look for some red paint on the handle and remember its position. Then turn the valve all the way closed counting the turns. When you put the new parts in close the valve and count the turns back equal to the old one.
Thanks for all the help on this guys, she's working like a charm now. I had a brief moment of panic when the nut on the eyebolt on the backside of the burner spun free, but then I realized I had just bumped the directional switch to neutral on the back of my ratchet :))
Just attaching a photo of the valve guts for anyone who hasn't seen them before
Elliott, Thanks for showing the pic of the valve. I am trying to replace mine as well, but having an issue unscrewing the valve. I suspect mine is an original from 1998. Did your valve unscrew pretty easy or did you have to use a spray or heat to loosen? I have been trying for two days and really don't want to break or snap the copper. I have used heat so far but not working. Thoughts?? Thanks.
I was able to get mine off with some channel locks
On mine, I had to attach vice grips as tight as I could make them and beat on it with a hammer. I had read another thread on the forums where they had to do the same.
Back up the rest of the area with channel locks while using the extreme measure.
AH not working on diesel (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=47192.25)
I had the same issue. As Rudy pointed out in my thread it is pretty rugged.
Aqua Hot - Water Heating Issue (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46129.0)
Copper tubing considered tough? Maybe that explains why mine originally started leaking at a sweated fitting. Never could explain it leaking. IMO I'll slit the nut rather than beat on a copper manifold. Hope you reinstalled with Anti seize