I am hoping to get some advice about towing. I am new to this concept and have a 1996 U295, I am thinking about a 2005 Lexus 470 4WD. I have seen here that model is flat-towable. Wanted to confirm that my U295 can handle the weight. Next wanted to hear people's experience with hardware and anything else that would be good for a newbie to know. Thank you!
Excellence choice for a tow car. Suggest you get a Ready-Brute tow bar with built in brake for your car. If you already have a tow bar, Ready Brake will be simple good brake.
A friend towed your car just fine. Enjoy
I believe Jack Lewis tows a similar vehicle (2004 GX470). If he doesn't see this thread and respond, you could try sending him a PM to ask about his experience.
Which towable 4x4? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41217.msg409980#msg409980)
Just purchased a GX470 to tow myself. Issues with cracked dash until 2008-2009 model fyi. X2 on the ready brute tow bar with surge brake included. Several on the forum have been towing them for a while.
The biggest limiter is the GCWR on the 1996-1998/99 years, depending on model, but it appears yours is 6k. Your placard can confirm. Provided it's pretty stock and you don't add much armor/accessories, you will be under that. Personally a fan of the ARB Deluxe with reinforced tow hooks. That bumper is a must have IMO.
Hardware is subjective, lots of threads on it. I use Roadmaster/Brakemaster. Also have a custom plate to attach from the seat bolts to the pedal.
I have Airforce One and it will only engage with the brake so when I use the retarder or the Jake
the Toad brake will not engage.
I think it will make a fine toad. My personal opinion is I want to have total control over my toad brakes. These automatic surge systems are flawed IMO. Yes you can do a workaround and set them so low they never engage, you have met the legal requirements but operate way out of adjustment to keep from roasting your toad brakes. I want the toad brakes to perform when requested and not during retarder use ever. Did I mention EVER. Having the toad brakes apply with the coach brakes meets the requirements for having toad brakes and the reason too. Some type of air actuated braking system is the only way to go , again IMO. I live in the mountains and climb and descend non stop it seems like. I'm always using the retarder and some times for 10+ miles at a time. My coach has a brake controller for trailer electric brakes and it is solely operated by braking only, and unaffected by retarder use.
Secondary emergency brakes is seldom talked about. I really like the Ready break away cable operated brake system. Simple cheap, reliable, and legal. KISS
Amazon.com: NSA RV Products RS-5000 Break Away Device : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/NSA-RV-Products-RS-5000-Device/dp/B00IK56R4A/ref=sr_1_4?crid=10QGDFAAAMLM3&keywords=ready+brake+cable+kit&qid=1678419174&sprefix=Ready+brakes+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0)
We had a '96 U295 for 7 years. Drove all over. Spent summers on the road.
Installed an M&G ( Brake Systems for RV Towing | M&G Brake Systems (https://www.mgbrakes.com/) ) brake system and towed a Jeep Liberty.
M&G uses the coach air brake pressure to app[y the towed brakes.
Loved it.
I also have used the M & G braking system. It uses your air, has an optional air reservoir (which I have and recommend) and a breakaway system that has worked for me. Use a Blue OX tow bar setup. Check their website for which would be best for your weight.
We prefer less installation issues with "RV Brake"