When we leave the water pump switch "on", the pump short cycles every 30 or so seconds, for maybe a second or two. Aside from being annoying, it must be indicative of a different problem.
Any suggestions on a fix??
Several possibilities:
Leak in plumbing
Leak in fill valve allowing water to "recirculate"
Leak in water pump check valve allowing pressure to bleed off to where the pump re-starts.
Agree, it is something that you need to diagnose, particularly if water leak.
Where is the water pump check valve located at ? Right on the pump itself if I let the water pump set for a day or two with out using any water I'll turn the pump on it cycles for a couple of seconds then holds its pressure you have to let it sit for a few days but if I close the shower hot water valve on the manifold it will hold its pressure but can not find any signs on water leaking and I have looked it dry as can be. It is driving me crazy that I can find this problem to me it should hold its pressure till something is open can't see behind taps in the wall but the line coming down the wall is dry. No signs of water dripping The floor and carpet is dry no signs of water or dampness no water in bays just like pump is losing it pressure but what puzzles me if I close hot water manifold (shower)it will hold its pressure for ever.
Look for an "exploded" view of your specific pump.
Here is a YouTube video of one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKvzYoTs4J0
A week ago, I posted a " water fill" problem. When I was on city water, my fresh water tank would, mysteriously, fill.
Now, I posted a " cycling" problem
You see where I'm getting at??........
I believe that I have a problem with the solenoid. I read the previous posts, BUT STILL don't know what, exactly I'm looking for
AND IF I can try and clean it out without emptying the fresh water tank.
I will attack this issue in the next few days, so feel free to help me out. I DON"T think it's my pressure switch on the pump, as this cycling problem occurred before and after I replaced the pump with a new one.
I appreciate the feedback about bypassing the solenoid with a manual valve, but still am not 100 per cent confident that I understand what I might be taking on.
To complicate matters, Mexicans don't use pex. So IF I have to remove and replace a valve, I very well might have to wait until I return to the states. In the meantime, we simply fill the fresh water tank, and turn off the pump to stop the annoying pulsating.
Once again, thanks for all your help with this issue.
Yes, when combined with your other issue (separate post) very likely your fill valve is leaking. This allows pump PSI to bleed off back to the potable water tank.
Short term, probably just turn water pump off when water is not being used.
Short term OR long term, turning off the water pump when it's not being used is a excellent habit to cultivate.
Doing so will avoid interior floods from a broken pipe that occurs in the middle of the night or when you're away from the coach all day.
Long term...???
I asked if I can tackle trying to repair the solenoid without emptying the fresh water tank.
We turn the pump off, as mentioned.
Open the drain valve associated with the water pump. If it stops running yes if it continues to run no you have to drain the tank. This is with the city water turned off.
Anytime the feed line or any valves or pumps from the freshwater tank is being worked on, adding a ball valve will prevent the future need to drain out all the water in the tank. Also adding a ball valve on the line to the water manifold will stop draining coach water lines when working on water pump plumbing.
Following on to Chuck & Brett's comment about turning water pump off when not in use, we add a water pump switch & LED by the door to help assure we will ALWAYS turn pump off when leaving coach. We also installed a switchable piezo sounder at kitchen sink that lets us know when water pump is running. Anything that prevents water leak damage is worth the effort.
I just had a problem like that myself. Found that it was the PEX shut off from the aqua hot cold drain line that was leaking. Didn't leak very much but at least enough. I replaced the shut-off valve problem solved.
I also agree that keeping your water pump off when not using it is a good idea but I also think that having a loud water pump is important too. And it's why I never use City water function in fact I removed it. I only pump off my tank and I can hear my pump from anywhere in the coach when it's cycles.
When the Auto Fill switch is on, does the city water go through the pump to fill the fresh water tank, or does it go directly from city water into the tank?
When on city water and fill valve is open, water goes to the water tank. It does not go through the water pump. When the fill valve is open and water pump is on the pump is recycling the water and would run continues.
I replaced the pump a few years ago, but am not sure that I understand everything I'm looking at. Still looking for the cause if the "short cycling"
I have NO IDEA of what the above mentioned FILL VALVE looks like.
I am enclosing two pictures. Please explain what I am looking at at what function they are responsible for, especially if one is the fill valve.
Thanks
Another view
Second picture is the fill valve. No idea of the first one as it is not on my '99
Reply 13 second picture is your fill valve and the other thing I have no idea what it is.
The 1st pic. in reply 13 is one of 3 tank sensors that feed info to the Javelina system to tell you the level of the tank. It is a pressure transducer. You have 1 for the fresh tank, 1 for the grey water, 1 for the black tank. The one shown is for the fresh water tank.
Mike
Thanks Mike now I know. My coach didn't have that system.
Peter,
You coach should have the aluminum tape system. No matter which system a coach has they both accomplished the same thing.
Mike
Glen,
That fill valve is different than the brass Parker valve that is on earlier coaches. The thread that I posted long ago won't help you a lot as the 2 valves are built differently. The thing is though you can take that one you have apart and give it a good cleaning. With it being made of some tyle of plastic you won't have as bad of a calcium build up as those of us that have the old style brass one. You are more than likely to find a bolder/sand grain or a cracked diaphragm than any thin else once you remove the bonnet. With out isolation valves you will need to drain the fresh water tank so you don't flood the village when you remove the valve. You will need to remove the nut you see on the top of the valve coil to remove the coil. Just lift it off and lay it to the side then you can take the valve out to service.
Mike
OK. Getting closer.
The sensor for the Javalina system has been replaced by a Sensa Tank system so is a non issue.
Looking at my picture of the fill valve, walk me through how I should proceed to open it up to see if there is an internal problem. Or should I wait til I return to the states?
I just read the above after I posted this
Thanks
Funny that you mention the pump. A leaky check valve in the pump will cause the same symptom as will a leaky check valve at the city water connection. At the latter you'll see the leak, the former not so much so.
Ya, several potential "points of failure":
Pump check valve-- no external leak. Pressure just bleeds off as water flows back to tank.
Fill valve-- no external leak.
Shore water inlet check valve-- drips/leaks water (leak only, no "recycle" of water back to the tank).
Yes, a fourth would be any other leak in the system would cause pump to cycle, but would not "recycle" water back to tank.
Does GleamB have one the Shur-Flo 3-chamber wobble pumps? If the answer is yes, it might be time to place an order for a new one.
Ever since we moved in our shore water inlet has had a 1/4 turn ball valve shut off backstopping the check valve. It's on my list of things to do, but I'm old enough and knowledgeable enough to know that once I touch that check valve I'm in it to the end.
It's a new pump. I agree. If I open it up here, Murphy is waiting around the corner. I'll wait.
I like that "It's a new pump" as if that weren't the first thing that I'd go back and check. The best time to introduce contaminants or dislodge existing problems waiting to happen is during all that goes into breaking the system open and installing something new.
Off to the cath lab. Better than food and coffee.
Cath lab? Diagnostic or ?