Not that I would wish this on anybody but I am at a lost to resolve it. When I park the coach leaving it in travel mode with the key off within a hour the left rear begins to rise. Turn the key on and it exhausts the left rear to return to travel mode height. Upon doing this a few times and the air supply is nearly depleted when I return to the coach many hours later the left rear and left front will be lowered and the bags are nearly flat. The right side appears to still be at travel height. I have replaced the lowering valves on the rear six pack back because they were leaking at through the exhaust ports on the six pack block. The coach is in my garage but I have not had the opportunity to be there every hour while these malfunctions are taking place.
I am waiting for a return call from HWH tech. I am planning on leaving on a trip with the coach Tuesday. A additional note I have two touch pads and have tried both and also all fuses in the control box are good.
Need to replace left rear raise valve or repair it. It is leaking.
You could first try with engine running manual raise and dump left side a number of times. That might get the valve to seal again.
I agree with Turbojack, it's a leaking raise solenoid on your rear six pack. When you park the coach, there is still air in your rear brake tank and because that solenoid isn't sealing off, it's slipping past and filling the airbag. If you'd like extra confirmation, swap the raise solenoids left to right on your rear sixpack and see if the problem moves to the other side. Based on this and the other leak-down symptoms, it's probably time to completely rebuild both of your six packs, which you probably won't be able to get parts for by Tuesday. You need to contact Tom McCloud at encantotom@gmail.com and see if he has gotten his next run of rebuild kits in yet.
You could try some percussive maintenance on the raise solenoid, maybe you can knock it loose, but it sounds like you have other leaks both front and back that'll be the next challenge. Does this coach have an auxiliary air compressor to help maintain level?
HWH callback times are multiple weeks still last I heard. I have been waiting for a call from their parts department now for about a month.
Agree with others that it's a raise solenoid with a leak-through. We had one and it turned out to be debris (looked like teflon or gas tape) on the seat.
The coach has an auxiliary air compressor. I have a new valve, I will replace the left raise valve.
When you turn your ignition key off the open travel solenoids close. Tight system will stay put. Because of your leak it rises. It's actually rising the entire time but with the travel solenoid active/open using the ride height valves it is hidden because of the constant adjustments made by them. Hope this helps to make more sense of it.
Scott
If you have an auxiliary air compressor, you could try dumping all the air, shutting the engine off, and then manually leveling with the air compressor. That way you wouldn't have any air in the tanks leaking through to the bag once you're level. I suspect you'll still run into the other leak down problems you mentioned though.
Thanks to all who diagnosed the issue as the left rear raise valve. I replaced the valve, problem solved! Thanks again this forum is awesome 👏. Such a willingness to share experiences and wisdom!
I have yet to replace a valve myself. When you install a new one do you put oil or something on the two seals before screwing down? How tight do you crank down on it?
There's something called "o-ring grease". Super lube is an auto parts store brand. I think Molykote also makes an o-ring grease. Barely a film is needed. More is not better.
The seal is made by the o-ring, so don't gorilla-fist it on - you can actually damage the o-rings doing so.
Perhaps more importantly, you can strip out the aluminum block you're twisting it into and then you just signed up for a $1600 purchase and a trip to Moscow Iowa
Now we know how you know this after reading your other thread "PENDING: Rebuilt HWH solenoids"
The directions that came with a new valve read to hand tighten and then an additional 1/4 turn.
Yes, it was a frustrating experience to say the least. Not only is the front six pack an absolute nightmare to work on if you have a slide bladder tank, but whatever shop that put the others back on put them on so tight it took everything I had with channel locks to get them off. Tons of fun when you're laying on your back in the cold dirt.
I have an 87 ish hydraulic control panel for sale.
20$ plus shipping from fl
I will take it. Still can't send any more messages for a little while due to responding to my solenoid ad
Text me your address
I'll ship it in about a week.
My number is in my sig