So, I have spent three days attempting to find a way to remove the Valtera blade cartridges (without a saw) on our coach. Both are positioned in such a way that access to the lower, tank side bolts is impossible with any normal...and not so normal tools that I own. To add insult to injury, who ever installed the current blade pack on the pass/grey tank side installed the bolt facing rearward, placing the flanged/lock nut on what may be the "maybe, sort of, if he'll freezes" accessible location.
Anyway, I am sure the collective brain trust of this forum will have possible solution(s).....or at least ideas. At this point open to any non-destructive suggestions....
Thanks in advance!.... Feel feee to PM for deep discussion...
Bob
With you having all the vanity covers off to get to where you are could you post a few pics so we can mull over what you have.
Mike
Will get pix tomorrow. You have to see it to believe and understand. Bluntly, built unserviceable...at least from my view. Thanks for any input.
Also planning a 3rd valve and will probably ditch the fiberglass, shaped wet bay covers for a flat piece of stainless or aluminum. The 3620 has the main line come across the rear wall of the tank bay and make a turn towards the front.... Another not so genius design. The "a sexy" dog leg shape covers make the 3rd valve impossible....
More tomorrow...
Bob
With you doing a major over hall you could just get a Fenn style cutter (oscillating) from Wong Fu Chung freight. Take this with a straight cutter blade and slit the mounting connection in several places length wise. Now take a heavy duty heat gun and heat each section. This will loosen the glue enough to pry up each tab you created with a flat screw driver. I know that this is clear as mud but have used this on several coaches that was creativity built.
Mike
I know of at least one 2002 that had one tank valve on the standard street side and the other on the curb side. That was a 42' with electric valves.
Wondering if yours has similar "unusual" plumbing.
1/4" drive swivel sockets are your friend using long extensions. Plan for the original bolts to break and use anti seize on the new hardware.
SNAP ON 7/16" Universal Swivel Flex Socket 1/4" Drive, 12 Point - TMU141 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155399688728?epid=1111865444&hash=item242e8b1218:g:0bkAAOSwAwFj5E45&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwP7trOxiuZMYUijQY74ir5Q9Ry1m2x00CcyaqzcC9aHkENXuVghAiFH626tH6ocIuEUSQt2gJXgVCSJDRuAKil7Qc9f%2Fkea%2Bba%2FldC1igmxvjlD%2BIVfnyxmLzrQ5M7CDMjG91iUftHM%2FA0Xc043a6QFly1HnZEww%2BapMNFGO1hNBocWf9EOv3EyT0Khjm74L2ADee4vF5jqbeoI18E23s2BmmNOXEbtVOwjt19vOa9kohhZSFBha6A0PsAj8CBQwEg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Ko99PxYQ)
Prybar to lift a little helps
Water leak (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=45046.0)
This wrench will let you work from the rear if necessary.
Jetech 7/16 Inch Flexible Head Gear Wrench, Industrial Grade Flex Ratcheting... (https://www.amazon.com/Jetech-Industrial-Ratcheting-Heat-Treated-Combination/dp/B081PHM1KN/ref=asc_df_B081PHM1KN/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416692018207&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3107179886543576767&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031159&hvtargid=pla-888205749516&ref=&adgrpid=95471654058&th=1)
All.... Thanks for the input. As to the tools, I have everything that has been suggested....and then some. 90 degree driver attachment, thin wall 12 point wrench, thin wall socket, flex joint, every length of extension .... There is literally no clearance between the tank and the corner of the Valtera valve flange. No room to swing anything, not even one click of the ratchet. Combine that with the outbound flange being glued directly to the elbow that is also pinned to the floor and side of tank...well, you get it. Fortunately the hardware is not corroded, could remove the other three bolts. The Manibloc interferes with access to the other side. I am contemplating pulling the hose storage line, cutting the drain line at the flange and then main line, will use a street L and 2 no hub sleeves to reconnect making it all removable for the "next time".... Still would like to not get into major brain surgery as access to cut the main line is sketchy at best...
Pictures to follow this evening....
Somebody put it in? Doesnt sound like fun. They also have a hole saw/ internal guide to remove the old fitting and reuse the pipe. Ive also done what Mike mentions about splitting the fitting and removing off the pipe in pieces. Pictures will help, but sounds like you have a handle on it and alternative tool applications.
Scott
Cut thru the piping with a vibrater cutter, then re-install back together using flex rubber sleeves with the clamp bands. Used these on the 295 so all the sewer piping could be removed as a complete section. Worked fine as system not under pressure.
Johnh
Pictures, I've got pictures. I believe the ultimate solution will be cut it out (leaving the tank side flanges of the Valtera valves and as I considered and other have indicated, plumb with rubber "no hub" sleeves onto the new, line side of the dump valves. Also make a joint using no hub sleeves at one end of the cross-coach run allowing for total or partial removal later...... Now all I need to do is get through the next four weeks of committed travel..... Both valves still working, grey side stiff with a "drip"... Have drilled the grey side valve for lubrication... Will drill the black tomorrow.... Someone give me a "pit toilet" please!
Bob
Bob,
All I can say is who ever planned that routing needs to be bored for the holler horn. I am more speechless now than before I saw the pics. That plan you have come up with should be a huge upgrade compared with what you have now.
Mike
Could not agree more with Mike. I took another run at it today with a flex shaft used on a drill. Attached 1/4 ratchet.... Can't bend the flex enough and get a firm bite of the nut. All just plain stupid. Will keep them "lubed" until I can do a "dump-plumbing-ectomy".
Can't hold a candle to some of the beautiful artistry Roger, Don and others have done with their wet bays, but I don;t think anything come close to the Lippert Waste Master and highly recommend it if doing an upgrade: Amazon.com: Lippert 359724 Waste Master 20' Extended RV Sewer Hose Management... (https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-359724-Master-Extended-Management/dp/B010X65OHE)
The electronic valves were getting "iffy" on our 2002 U270, so we changed them out to manual blade valves and added a third valve when upgrading the sewer hose. Black tank blade valve is on the passenger side, so used an extension and mounted the handle on top of the compartment. Replacement gray valve is to the right of the sewer hose hookup and the third valve directly behind it. Its not the prettiest solution, but its made our life a whole less messy when dumping.
One of these days, I'll get around to refabricating the fiberglass, but for now it serves its purpose.
I have a wrench that can help get into tight spaces. Handy but not cheap. They make a 1/4" drive version but that may even be too big to help you.
1/4" Professional Tite-Reach Extension Wrench (https://tite-reach.com/collections/tite-reach-wrenches/products/1-4-professional-tite-reach-extension-wrench)
A swivel socket and a bending extension to a drill with socket attachment. Go under if you can.. Its almost impossible but doable .. I just cant remember if I did mine from bottom or top but it was the hardest one of all of them.
Patience and more patience and maybe some prayer before and after will help. ^.^d
Here's the technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGv9THpOdmw
Be sure to plug the hole with a short self tapping screw or you'll have a horrible mess in your wet bay!!!!!
I'm with Mike on this one for sure! Having done all kinds of plumbing and weird setups, I went into my wet bay to remove all the cable gate valves. Needless to say, I used an undercut saw with straight blade and cut all that plumbing out and redid it with new PVC in a straight shot to tanks. I made two separate pipes and cut another hole out in the front panel and now have two gate valves out front, easy to get to with nothing behind the paneling. I then purchased a Y connection flex sewer hose and run one line to sewer. I can open up my black first and then once done, can actually back flush the black with the grey in that setup. Of course I also added two flush valves before buttoning everything up again. Now have a working system that looks clean and no more issues with bends and Y connections behind closed doors. Depending on where you are located, I could show you or do the job myself. No fear here!
If his was anything like mine the gaskets were gonzo ... Mine pinched the seal and then wouldnt close all the way so I redid the plumbing and took the cables out and added electric valves.. I love mine now
Makes my 2006 nimbus 336 look sane
I replaced both valves mine and both cables. Black valve seeps.
I just put a pan under it when I remove the cap. Must of damaged the seal with the installation.
Not going to open up that snake pit for that flaw. It does not leak into the bay. If I do it again I will do what you did.
Makes my 2006 nimbus 336 look sane
I replaced both valves mine and both cables. Black valve seeps.
I just put a pan under it when I remove the cap. Must of damaged the seal with the installation.
Not going to open up that snake pit for that flaw. It does not leak into the bay. If I do it again I will do what you did.