Anyone know where I can get base plare and wiring done
I need roadmaster for Honda CRV 2014
In Dallas Mc Kinney area
Can't seem to find anyone
Help!!!
Thanks
So both the kit for the mounts and wiring are available threw Etrailer.com the tow point looks like a straight bolt on. Simply plug and play. Find a local repair shop and show them the Kits you want to order and see if they will install. Auto body repair shop? So I'm curious on what braking system you will operate? Seems everyone has an opinion but personally I want toad brake application only with the coach brakes and not during retarder use. Many use the reactive tongue to set the brakes and I want more personalized control, IE not during retarder use or partial application during steep downhills with coach brakes released. Toad brakes just barely applied will still become very hot and destructive IMO.
Scottt
Yesterday, my CRV broke loose during rush hour just north of Austin on I 35. A driver notified me while doing about 45 , but as I tried to exit, slowly, it broke loose, traveled across 4 lanes and stopped along the concrete median. The baseplate pulled off the frame of the car.
THANK GOD no one was hurt and no damage to others.
We just bought another CRV, so looking for a fast install of baseplate and wiring
We have a game plan, so thanks, anyway.
We had a Brake Buddy, but I bought it used and it did NOT work
I want a better system, this go around.
So ....I too am open to best suggestions.
I NEVER WANT TO EXPERIENCE THIS EVER AGAIN
I use RVI3 which is proportional braking system that operates with an inertial motion sensor. No connection to coach brake switch. You can vary the sensitivity or set it up for panic stop only. It has a breakaway switch to activate full brakes with disconnect. It uses an internal 12v air compressor which requires 12v power. It has a wireless hub that sends information to an Android tablet so you can track what it's doing. You can activate a toad only brake by pushing the brake button on the tablet. If for some reason you lose connectivity with hub or tablet it still works on its own. They have a permanent mount solution and a removable floor mount system. Been using it for four years. It doesn't like to spend the night out below freezing and it doesn't work when someone breaks your window and steals it. Father and son company that answers emails and phone. Have not used the permanent mount system. Take a picture of the manual query code because it's needed to re-pair.
Glenn, call Josh's Body Shop in McKinney and talk with Corey. Unfortunately we used them many times while living in McKinney.
Glenn, did not the safety chains or cables keep the car tied to coach.?
Johnh
The safety chains are probably hook to the base plate. I use Airforce One and it will stop the car if
it brakes loose and it only works with the coach brakes.
.
Right. It pulled the baseplate off the frame.
Sold the car. Bought another.
Let's move on.
Thanks
Plus one for AirforceOne!
I understand wanting to move on, but many of us tow CR-Vs and are interested in the failure mode so we can potentially prevent another one. You'd really be helping others if you could share more details.
How long was the baseplate on the vehicle and were there ever any inspections of the mounting since its installation, such as checking that the bolts were tight?
We had our AF1/Stay n' Play Duo's cable on the brake pedal cylinder break from fatigue bending this past year. We haven't towed the car in quite a while; Steve just noticed it when he was installing the new radio. Demco (who bought SMI Brake) advised us that the angle of the cable was on the edge of installation spec. We pointed out that SMI had done the installation, so they warranteed the repair.
Well Glen what you experienced should never happen. Too many multiples to one problem.
The mount should never fail
The safety cables should never fail
The emergency braking system should never fail.
If you ask for help IMO it's beneficial to supply all the facts.
I like your clean slate mentality but would like to see you never repeat the same outcome. Yes I'm glad you didn't kill some one.
IMO In your case I think it would be beneficial to decide on one compleat system and have the manufacture install it and train you on its proper use and required maintenance. Every time I hook up anything I make a visual inspection and regularly I make a detailed hands on inspection. Also IMO this extra brake system would of resolved your separation anxiety. Amazon.com: RS-5000 Break Away Device, RV Towed Vehicle Braking Control... (https://www.amazon.com/RS-5000-Vehicle-Activated-Emergency-Breakaway/dp/B0BNJ1ZH13/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2OZP793CA9T6U&keywords=emergency+brake+device&qid=1684030173&sprefix=emergency+brake+device%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc)
These are a mandatory backup on everthing I flat tow. Cheap and easy to install. KISS.
Scott
It's all about redundancy. Glad your OKAY!
I don't know of any places in your area but I found a big U-Haul in my town that sells and installs Blue 0x base plates and tow bars. I think they will install any brand and was about half price of a RV dealer. The owner told me that some of the RV dealers have him install for them. I hope this will give you another option.
Just my two cents
This was included in my setup when I purchased my tow bar, NSA Ready Brute.
Okay
This was totally my fault, not the manufacturer.
Two years ago we hit a tope in Mexico, at speed. It pulled the baseplate off the frame. We thought we repaired it. Next year I pulled the car off the coach attempting cross a median. Long story. We were desperate to make a repair.No one would touch it. I convinced a trailer repair shop to weld it to the frame. The weld held. The frame gave out.
We also had a Brake Buddy, but it malfunctioned.
All my fault.
We were blessed not to hurt anyone and will make corrections with the car we just bought.
Keep in mind the breakaway cable if hooked up to the base plate would not have helped in this situation.
Redundancy is the resolution so there are several safeties with actual separation. Hooking everything to the hitch sound like a good idea till the hitch is liberated from the coach. It happens. Tow cable should be attached separately from tow bar mounts. Fail safe braking separated from everything. Brakes are actuated when toad/trailer is separated from coach for whatever reason either mechanically, electrically, or pneumatically
Easy to add a safety cable around frame to brackets, than hook into link with safety tow cables.
Google Image Result for https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81AQ8yi9WTL.jpg (https://images.app.goo.gl/MMK74ALUpHKxG9xA6)
Doug W
That is exactly what I am going to do with next one. The runaway cables should not attach to the base plate. They should go to another part of the frame. I will do this on next vehicle, and probably go Air Force One.
Thanks
I will mention this since I also have a blue ox system. There have been issues with Blue Ox lately with the base plate where is attaches to the frame of the vehicle. A few have failed and with the cables attached to the base plate eyelets, you have no safety with base plate failure. I now check mine! Will get under car today and check the bolts themselves! Wow Glenn, you were very lucky in a way! There is a company in TX that sells and installs brake systems, M&G aux brake systems and they are in McKinney, TX
'
Short drive from McKinney over to Nacogdoches. Just had a new baseplate, wiring, and Air Force One installed on a new '23 Jeep Rubicon at MOT. Reusing RoadMaster hitch. Bought a "reinstall kit" from AFO. Installed new wiring harness for lights. They did a great job and it is working fine. Had a previous install done at FOT and it was great as well. Things like that I'm more comfortable with folks who have experience doing that exact job before.
Feel okay telling me cost for above?
Or PM me
Thanks
This is good information. Sorry Glenn had a problem but almost every RV'er pulls a toad at some point.
In my case, after towing a Suzuki Samurai for years with no issues, I now (rarely and for short distances) tow a CRV that came with a Roadmaster base plate but no braking mechanism. My coach came with some kind of a brake controller but as of right now all I can do is tow the CRV without brakes or lights.
I bought a Roadmaster-to-Blue Ox adapter for the base plate so that part is good. After reading this thread I can handle the emergence cables but I need help in getting the correct braking system for the CRV and getting the CRV lights to work. I'm pretty sure I hooked up my RV to car electric cable correctly but for some reason the tail lights, turn signal and brake lights on the CRV do not work.
Any thoughts?
Hi Joe,
Pretty sure that M&G is located in Athens, TX. They may have an installer in McKinney but the factory is in Athens.
Steve
You are so right, but McKinney is right there as well. No issues and thanks for the correction!
With none of your lights not working the first thing I would check is the ground. In my province I can
legally tow my Sidekick without brakes but I think brakes are safer.
I remember in 2021 Brad had the same problem when his truck broke away from the coach and ran the back of his coach.
I put my own base plate in using Roadmaster parts. Air Force One is my braking system and I also installed that myself as well. They're not really hard to install you just need to have the correct parts and tools. My Jeep Grand Cherokee did not have the tow hooks up front so I had to actually drill holes through pretty hefty steel. Which reminds me I really need to check those bolts make sure they're still tight. I never really thought about the base plate popping off, and yes that happens then those safety wires will not be any good but the car should have still braked with a working auxiliary braking system.
You're not that far from nacogdoches that's where I would go.
Either foretravel or extreme should be able to accommodate you. Definitely not something anybody wants to experience. Glad you both are okay.
Roadmaster sells a auxiliary lighting system that is powered by the coach not by the car. You run wires to the back drill some holes put some lights in and it works. You don't have to worry about your car battery being depleted. E-trailer sells it.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/Roadmaster/RM-155.html
His hitch was torn horizontally off his coach. Foretravel induced an inherent problem by welding around the receiver hitch were it attaches to the coach. He was towing a heavy truck loaded with a X3 Can am in the back. Extreme side loading induced his issues. Just the weight of the tow bar vertically. As a preventive measure inspired by Brad I installed a horizontal plate to web together the hitch to prevent any side load issues. I had recommended he upgrade to a 2 1/2" receiver from the 2" do to his towing needs. Extending the hitch into the receiver and additional 3-4" also will reduce towing stresses. Following link has pictures
2010 Phenix 45' Failed hitch
inspiration (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42151.0)
Shocker hitch (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40012.msg395721#msg395721)
Glenn,
Thank you for sharing. It's a good warning to anyone who hits an "unusually aggressive" bump, even if they don't suffer the involuntary separation of baseplate from towed, to inspect the baseplate after the event and make sure everything is still tight and nothing seems "off".
I think the tow equipment manufacturers recommend an annual inspection of the baseplate, etc. I also know BlueOx recommends replacing the towbar after something like 7 years due to wear and tear of the arms, locking points, etc. Yes, you can rebuilt most of a tow bar, but you can't remove seasons of shear and impact forces.