I am looking at a coach. I know I will need to actually inspect the coach, but from this picture how bad is the bulkhead issue? Should I walk away from the deal?
Title edited for clarity by moderator Jeff
Looks typical
I had mine done at Thomas Welding in Nac- Keith R advise on the finish work and I completed at home.
Thomas Welding charged 2200.00
You would have to peel back the fiberglass belly in order to be absolutely certain the structure would have to be repaired with new metal but just looking at the photo I would say there is a very good chance it will need to be fixed.
If the rest of the coach is to your liking you can negotiate a better selling price based on what you see or get an independent inspector to agree with your assessment and use that as a bargaining chip.
We had the rear bulkhead repaired on our coach several years ago at MOT and I believe the cost was around $5K. The repaired area is much stronger than the OEM construction and the metal was painted which the factory had omitted.
In our case I feel it was well worth the cost.
Steve
Really tuff to tell from that one picture. You need someone to inspect it that knows Foretravels.
The picture is poor so hard to see if anything is wrong or is the fiberglass sheeting just loose.
Thomas Welding will tell you there is more than you can see. Brandon is very experienced at this repair. Keith Risch or yourself will need to put the belly skin back on.
So, you have a $2200 picture plus belly skin install.
This is fixable.
A good portion of the repair is the removal and replacement of everything necessary to allow access to the substructure. The repair itself is straightforward using commercially available material and techniques.
To me, given the overall cost and condition of the Fretravel you're looking at, the question should be:
Do I want to have this once in a lifetime repair done to my satisfaction? Or do I want to look at another Foretravel and possibly purchase hidden rust damage that will need to be repaired later.
Buying something that isn't perfect and making it what you want isn't a bad idea. Trusting the seller to do so is.
I noticed Steve had MOT do the repair for about $5000. They use Thomas Welding for the welding part. So, $2800 to install the belly skin.
Keith Risch can install the skin for way way way less.
You need to send a few high resolution, in focus images of the engine compartment, generator and front bulkhead. Corrosion and rust may mean more problems in maintenance down the road or the damage may be limited to the bulkhead. Signs of rust in either other compartments may mean the coach was driven on treated winter roads.
Pierce
Don't overlook checking the front bulkhead.
This would be the way to go after you have Keith inspect the coach as he may find other problems.
As a point of reference Keith was at MOT when I had the rear bulkhead repaired. At that time they had only done few of these using a welding shop that may have been Thomas welding. I have no regrets paying MOT to handle the repairs. I have talked to coach owner who recently paid FOT over $8K to have their rear bulkhead repaired. Granted I do not know the exact scope of the work done by FOT but shopping around is well worth the effort.
Steve
Somebody needs to look at it. From the photo you supplied, I would say that our rear bulkhead looked about the same. I checked the torque on the bolts when we purchased the coach, and all but two were "good." I planned to inspect it again once a year, and we went traveling.
We got home and something didn't look right. I checked the torque on the bolts again and two more failed the torque test.
Well, the remaining bolts were properly tight, but the bolts had rusted in two between the metal angle and the bulkhead structure. ONLY TWO BOLTS WERE HOLDING THE BACK OF THE BULKHEAD. I could slide a putty knife across the whole span (after I dug out the dirt, gravel, and chunks of rust.)
I removed about a foot of the skin. The bulkhead structure had only surface rust and some very light pitting. Wire brush, rust treatment, paint and drilling lots of holes for the new bolts.
My point (and my humble opinion) is that a casual look will tell you nothing. You might have a fine structure and bad bolts. You might have nice bolts and a failing structure. A pro might have better intuition, but the best answer will come from an hour or two under the coach with a scraper, a wrench, and maybe a drill and borescope. Block the suspension and put several jacks under the bulkhead structure before you get underneath. Oh, and it will require an honest seller. Before the probing, he (she) might be simply unknowing. After the probing it will take a liar to deny the evidence to the next potential buyer.
I would get clear permission to dig around before I traveled across states to inspect it. Prior to my experience, I would just be dumb, and hope I got as lucky as I did.
On the other hand, this repair could be a squirt of caulk!