8.3 side radiator, no overheat issues (just pulled in 90 degree weather, engine stayed at 180.
When we got to the destination, it's real warm in the compartment. Probably normal, but has anyone ever added fans to help evacuate the heat? With the swing out grates on three sides wouldn't be hard.
So on my u320 I have an engine fan override switch and I turn the engine driven fan to hi speed for about thirty minutes before shutdown. I am able to delete all the extra heat that accumulates in the radiator and drop my engine and trans temperature down 20 degrees. It makes sleeping possible were before I would sleep up front because of the room temperature. I usually drive late and leave early when we are going across the states. I also try to plan my stops in cooler elevations.
Hydraulic fan controller DIY (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41024.0)
The resonator install solved lot of the heat soak problems we had before. Sooner or later I will put the override switch in like Scott's.
I had kinda forgot about all the gains from losing the heat accumulator (muffler). That was huge.
Have you redone the old insulation?,that would help with the heat in the bedroom,if you mean the engine compartment,let it
stay hot till it cools natually the added insulation will bounce the heat back or just open the rear compartment door and stick a
portable fan back there,will be ambient temp in a few minutes.
I'm not sure how my fan controller works, I'll have to look into that.
I forgot about that! Next on my list then.
I haven't done the insulation yet. I haven't noticed much heat in the bedroom, but when I hook up the water and power in the side grate where the intake and muffler is, quite warm.
I figured the less heat around the engine the better.
At one time I thought about adding a extra fan. I decided to open the engine hatch and lift
the bed to let the heat out. It works pretty good.
I open the engine hatch to let heat escape but seems to me that raising the bed would make the bedroom hot. I raise the hatch if it's a summer trip and turn the bedroom ac on high and by the time I'm ready for bed I've never had my mattress be hot but I do have double insulation in my engine compartment but a guy has to do what works for him.
3 o'clock or 300 miles, solves our bedroom heat issue.
If the bedroom temp is not a problem for you,having the engine get to ambient temp sooner with a fan is doing nothing at all
but consuming electricity.
So I would never ever ever open the bed. The entire coach will become saturated with heat inside of your conditioned air space.
Added preshut down cooling drops engine trans temp 20 degs and strips excess heat from radiator. I learned about this with a failed fan controller running on hi. Horrible after I fixed it . Too hot
Resonator deletes massive heat accumulator.
Insure the seals on your bed are not leaking heat.
Insulating the sides of the bed with 1" polystyrene foam (inside)
Insulating below the bed mattress with 2" polystyrene foam
Factory vented rear engine door to assist in thermal siphoning heat out
Just cracking a unvented door open would assist without fans. Thermal siphoning again. Possibly more effective than completely opening?
I would like to add 1-2" polystyrene under the floors in the bedroom but haven't made time yet. Probably when Im in there building a new cooler mount, its still on the list also
Scott
Assuming the above is done with the engine shut down and the coach parked,if on the older coaches the old black dusty foam
is redone with newer insulation and when you stop for the night you turn the AC on after a few minutes the floor in the bedroom
is barely warm,many of us have used shiney foil faced insulation in the engine compartment to reflect the heat and it works great.
I can see opening the small doors to get air in the compartment,yes the area will cool down quicker but for what purpose,plus
if it's in the winter the whole point is moot.
I pulled all the insulator blankets inside my engine compartment out and lined the entire inside including the bed panel with DynaMat. Then reinstalled the insulator blankets.
Then on the inside, I removed the bedroom carpet (it was in need of replacement) I covered the entire floor, bed pedestal walls and under the mattress with DynaMat. I then put in new carpet and covered the pedestal walls with a wood grain tile that matched the cabinets.
It has been a couple of years now since completing this work and the difference is amazing. After driving all day in summer heat in many states, when we park there is zero engine heat radiating into the bedroom. Literally no heat at all coming in from the engine compartment.
Also, the PO of the coach had installed a fan that looks like a hair dryer and hooked it up to an adjustable thermostat. It is 120 volt so only works when we are hooked to power or running the generator. What I have noticed is that when pulling into a RV park after a full day driving, when we plug in, the fan will run for about 30 minutes. I believe it is set at 90 degrees.
The fan is a plus, but doing the triple insulation ( DynaMat outside, Insulator blankets outside, DynaMat inside) is the ticket,
I used R19 compressed a bit under Hardieboard. Made a big difference and is very fire resistive. The black insulation burns like gasoline.
Pierce
Check on Ebay for "Noico", been using it for years,about half the price of dynamat.
This is a very good alternative to DynaMat too. I feel it works just as good.
Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 14620 60" X 36" Heat and Sound Suppressor : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PILLZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Heat in our rear bedroom is an issue also. First thing I normally do when stopped is pop open engine bay doors. When it comes to installing the heat shielding material inside the engine compartment, Are you all just adhering these materials inside the engine bay using the stock sticky backing , or something else also. I worry about it falling down...
I used 2" industrial insulation washers screwed on with dry wall screws.
Mike
Fender washers is what I used
The factory insulation fell down on the turbo of my'81 and caught fire. My brother was following me and got me pulled over and we put out the fire. I removed the insulation right there and when at home I redid it so it would never fall again.
After a PM asking more info on exactly what I use for washers here is a link to some. These are 1 1/2" where I have 2" but will work as well. Shop around for the size and price you like.
Amazon.com: Self Locking Washers Round (500) : Industrial & Scientific (https://www.amazon.com/Self-Locking-Washers-Round-500/dp/B07JYTPHDV/ref=asc_df_B07JYTPHDV?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470562693072&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070139730782&th=1)
Mike
Mike, I thought the washers were suppose to be plastic in case of engine fire the insulation would drop and help smother the fire!
Is this no longer what is being done??
Chris
Wishful thinking. I know I will get some nasty PMs but you ask my opinion.
The old style insulation that is black foam it is nothing but kindling and you don't want it any where near a flame. The newer grey that has K-O wool stuffing is a heat insulator. If you have a fire in the engine compartment of a DP it most likely will be either fueled from an oil line or diesel fuel that is being fanned by those radiator fans. Law of averages if the blanket came down it won't land on the hose with a leak. If someone wants some fire suppression then get a good fire system that is available.
Mike
Chris,when I redid mine,the old insulation was glued but I did reuse the old plastic washers which were in good shape.
When I did mine I scraped all the old stuff off the metal panels in the engine compartment,put one layer of the reflective Noico
and then 2 layers of the foil stuff ,used the washers and glue to hold,been on about 5 years no problem.My thinking is if you
put anything over the old stuff it's still going to keep falling and disintegrating on the engine.
I found the best way to get the old crumbling insulation off is with a shop vacuum. Just take the hose and kind of scrape it off.
I was actually worried about swatting a hornets nest in regards to this subject. I 100%agree with Mike on this. Every fastener that goes threw a fireproofing material is a weak link and will propagate a fire path. In an attempt to fireproof aircraft compartments a rigid product called gill liner is used. All seams must be taped with fire rated tape to help reduce air flow and flame propagation. The goal is for the compartment to remain sealed so suppression systems can do their job effectively and run out of air effectively blocking the fire triangle. Our coaches are open to the bottom so that's a bigger issue. Curiously I have taken a propane torch to a sample of this Gill liner and after extended flame exposure although denigrated it remained airtight. Very impressive results IMO. I probably should be collecting scraps before I retire for such projects. Downside is it weighs as much as a fiberglass panel the same thickness. FAT coach gets Fatter.
Think the bottom line here is keep the engine area oil free and clean and practice preventive maintenance and you won't have a fire,seems to be 2 schools of thought on the engine compartment,one is fire prevention/surpression and one is heat build up in the coach,some do a little of both,think the gill liner is overkill but your "price is right".
Yes I wouldnt want to order a sheet and pay full price. Like so many of the products we use much is thrown away do to born on date or in this case too short to use. Would be great for the absorption fridge area also
My thought behind the fan was not really about heat transfer into the bedroom, one day I will replace the completely missing insulation. I was mainly thinking about heat around the engine, and keeping that baby happy. The engine and trans run like a well oiled sewing machine, use no fluids, have plenty of power, and I'd prefer to keep the ole mechanical 8.3 happy than to deal with newer ones with more "systems". I think I'll start with the resonator, and go from there.
That's my plan. 95% of it is gone anyhow. Foil faced Roxul is what I plan to use in place of it.