Well the reason we didn't have cool air from the dash was that the Receiver-Dryer was hanging loose by the hoses and rubbed against the muffler until it worker through. Unfortunately I don't see how it was supposed to be mounted! I see a couple of holes on the Condenser mounting bracket but no flange or similar on the receiver to attach it to.
Any help appreciated...
Here is a shot of what I found. This wasn't noted the inspection at MOT in April and I didn't see it either... At the inspection the dash A/C temperature indicated proper cooling to my surprise based on my previous coaches.
I have the same issue and have been told it is the dryer that is the issue. Does anyone have the part number for a 98 u320. Pic below
Parker 3520-016 Receiver dryer (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42919.msg431150#msg431150)
Thanks for the info.
Just a question from a DYI guy.
Is there anything I need to do when taking the old one off and installing the new one?
Do I require putting more R12 or equivalent into system and should I drain off any air from system before changing it?
Unless your dash HVAC system is totally out of freon, you will need to empty it (slowly so gas but not oil escapes), install the new dryer, evacuate the system and recharge.
Anyone who works on automotive A/C's can do this-- not really any different than on cars/trucks.
Follow Brett's advice but use R-134a refrigerant.
Peter thanks for the pictures. Your location appears to be much different from mine. I don't have that clamp surround and my current hose is short so attaching it to the condenser bracket looks like the only option. I guess a similar attachment method is what I'll try for.
Thanks...
So before you replace cut open the dryer and see if it's full of corrosion. Last couple I've done were. This will contaminate the system and plug the expansion valve. There should be no moisture inside but yet there is. It a big system so don't get in a rush at all evacuating it. I highly recommend using a recovery machine do to the cost of Freon. If the differential pressures are excess it's contaminated. This will need to be resolved
Yup, should have said "refrigerant".
The particular refrigerant depends on the year of the coach.
Being here in Canada I may have an issue getting R134 here
Is there an easy way to "evacuate" the refrigerant?
The cost of a refrigerant recovery system would buy a lot of R-134a is there a reason for it being hard to get in Canada?
I guess maybe the government "banned" it years ago so all the major retail places have reverted to 12a refrigerant etc. I can find the 1234(?) type which they say is a replacement. If this does not require a "machine" to evacuate the refrigerant then perhaps I can change the dryer out
R-134a is only available commercially in Canada but there is a substitute that I have been using for
for years and it's good for 12a and 134a
Do you remember the part number for the replacement?
Also like I said I am unsure of the steps to replace the dryer. I want to say just undo it,replace it and recharge it but I know there must be more to it than that because it is under pressure
You can easily let it out but the system must be evacuated before adding the refrigerant. R-12 was banned here in the states many years ago. R-134a is still sold here in all the auto parts stores. The cars manufactured after 2021 have R-1234yf
Universal Air Conditioner RD 8214C A/C Receiver Drier Amazon.com: Universal Air Conditioner RD 8214C A/C Receiver Drier : Automotive (https://a.co/d/2J8dfk4)
Recently purchased this one off of Amazon based on dsds recommendations.. didn't install it yet though I just added refrigerant and my dash air started working again. I bought a leak detector on Amazon but it does not work with the batteries I have so I'm going to have to figure that out later.