I originally had the spring lift 25-30 gas springs which were original, and just did not hold my bed anymore. I replaced them with a 26 1/2 inch 120 lb gas struts to allow me to me to lift the bed. That works just fine, but it appears(maybe I just did not notice) the bed does not "seat" properly when down. I was assured by the fellow that sold them to me that once they were past the "pendulum " state they would collapse just as any of the other models. Is this correct or have I just not noticed the bed does not lie completely flat and SEALED when down?
Some have reported issues with damage to the platform's piano hinge if the replacement struts were too strong. You might check to see if that's starting to occur.
I think I replaced mine in the U320 with 80lb struts. I had a very dense, heavy foam mattress. No issues for the few years we owned it
So in rechecking it I discovered one side goes down all the way and the other does not. ( about a 1/2 gap) I checked the struts to ensure they were the same, which they were. I can't see any hinging issues. Warped bed? Not sure what to say?
Remove the struts to see if the bed is warped.
For safety, much better to use a length of PVC pipe with Tee's on either end for termination. Store PVC in under-bed electrical area, lift bed, stand-up PVC pipe to hold bed up. Many find this a better solution than increasing strut pressure, breaking hinge loose, risking bed falling, etc.
Look under bed from engine side to be sure struts are not too long, preventing bed from closing down completely.
BTW, one person replaced bed struts, closed bed down, while standing in front of bed, hinges completely broke loose, shooting bed forward, pinning him between bed and bedroom wall. It was a big job to strengthen hinge.
I'm the one who got slammed by the bed. New and heavier hinge holding up well but a pvc prop would have been clean and simple.
Patrick,
Somehow I missed that story. That must have been an exciting surprise.
Richard
Good info. I added a heavy bed (Costco Novafoam) and will need to replace my struts.
Regarding the seal: You must have a good seal for several reasons.
Sven,
Rather than using those struts why not go as several of us have done and use 2 12VDC liner actuators. Plenty of lift for the bed and push button to raise which saves the back. I use 16" stroke 330# of lift for ours and others that I have helped install.
Mike
Mike...you have a source for those ?
Thx
Hans
I generally use these folks Set of 2X 12V 16" Stroke 330lbs Linear Actuators &Brackets&Wireless Control... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/123450865535?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D251751%26meid%3Db55ed121fdb74883836a83c9adabfa4b%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D123450865535%26itm%3D123450865535%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3650466&_trksid=p3650466.c101465.m3507)
Now shop around as you may find these cheaper somewhere else. These folks have always been supper to work with on all of our projects whether for this bed lift or a hood lift on a car for show.
Mike
So found it was not a warped bed frame. Must be the new springs I put in. And in the the process of checking, the hinge came off. Will have to put a heavier hinge on it (thoughts on what size and length??). This may have something to do with the fact I used a 26.5 inch spring instead of the 25 inch which was on it ?? Also will try to get two springs that are about 80ish lbs instead of the 120 lb ones I installed...
The longer strut might be bottoming out.
Here are a few photos of my bed hinge replacement after it pulled loose. I found a more robust hinge online somewhere.
The bigger hinge moves the bed towards the foot about 1/4 inch or so which affects the latch.
My geometry thoughts don't understand why the bigger hinge would move the plywood forward as the rear edge of the bed still meets the same location of the frame. The larger hinge is definitely a great improvement.