Can't get the wet bay door open because it is stuck on the upper right side lock. I have the
drain door out so I can get my hand in there and the cable to the lock pulls and feels right.
Any ideas.
Do you have access to the cables? If you can reach them, a small tug on the cable will usually free it. The cables likely need some adjustment or the actual handle needs adjusting. Oftentimes, it can become loose and the extra slack in the handle movement will prevent the door from opening. I've had to adjust mine multiple times.
No problem pulling on the cables and I can feel the movement. I have even got a tool in
behind the door to pull it out and no luck.
Try a little pressure IN on the door while pulling the cables.
Done that too Brett
Is the coach at ride height? If pushing in does not work, try pushing up or to the side.
I'm fighting the same thing right now on my generator radiator access door, which also houses the release switch for the front generator door. Its not a critical problem to open the front generator door as I can crawl on the ground and reach the cable to release. I'll monitor this thread to see what you work out or post if I figure something out.
The only idea I have for you is maybe you can reach up through the hose access and spray some lube on the stuck latch.
I don't understand cables because mine has flat rods going from the handle to the latches inside. Try pulling the latch from the outside while pushing in on the side that isn't releasing. Like metioned earlier, be sure it's not binding from being unlevel.
I think oldguy has the bus style door mechanism.
Maybe this will help reply #9 and #10
Utility Bay Door Left Top Latch Will Not Release (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41644.0)
I got mine open. I examined how the latch works on another bay door. I found that you can disengage the latch when it is in the locked position by sliding a flat screwdriver or drill rod into the bottom end of the latch against the surface toward the bay door (see pictures).
I used an endoscope camera to view as I inserted an 18in long drill straight up from the bottom. Once inserted in the latch, push up on the drill rod and operate the door handle and it should pop open. Actually the door handle is just to release the 2nd latch on the other side. Practice on another open bay door latch.
I asked my son who has a endoscope camera it he would look at it tomorrow afternoon so I
can so what is holding the door closed. I tried with a mirror today but couldn't see anything.
Got the camera up there and it looked OK. Couldn't see why I wouldn't open so I cut a piece
of oak and pried the door sideways, cleared the lock pin and got it open. What had happen I
stored a filter system in behind the door and the hinge got twisted and jammed the door closed.
Got is straightened out so it will open and close and when my son has more time we will tweak
some more. Luckily it was stuck on the right side so lifting the big storage door there was enough
room for it to open.
The last time I had a door stick I pulled the bottom gasket off this gave me a little bit more room and then I stuck the zip D awning tool in and was able to grab a hold of the metal bar and pull down on it and it released. This was on my passenger side wet bay door which is a hinged door unlike the rest which are the bus style. But it would have worked on the bus style doors too providing I could see in there enough to do it.
Glad you got it open because it could be pretty frustrating. After getting stuck in Idaho my generator door was all messed up again pulling the bolts that they used in the past to secure it. I think originally they were all rivets. But they don't last. Finally decided to bite the bullet and drilled holes all the way through and use the same type of fasteners that the previous owner used on the old headlights. Look like stainless steel mushroom heads, can't remember the name of them right off hand right now but they look good enough and the mechanism is not going to move again. I've seen people do it on the side doors too but I'm not too keen on that.
It's either been can't keep the doors closed on the road or can't get them open once I get to where I'm going LOL. Not to mention when they redid the basement on a previous owner they didn't rewire it correctly so some work when you hit the lock all button and some are reversed including the front door. Just a little quirks of a 23 year old coach.
I had the same issue this year. I eventually had to yank the door open and that pulled the hinge off the Fiberglass. Used Jb weld and larger rivets and it is stronger than new. Found a new trick though. Make sure your coach is level when you close and lock your basement doors. Previously to doing that I always had a door pop open when driving or could not open them when stopped. With the coach level when you close the doors and when you again stop and open the doors I have not had any further issues!
The first year or two on the road I had lots of problems with the doors opening and I thought that I was closing them properly. It was very frustrating. I'm sure I lost a thing or two down the road like a very expensive buffer that I can never find..
Seems eventually I got it down where they don't pop open anymore maybe it's because I'm closing them while it's still level? I know sometimes if I'm at a level my front door doesn't close quite right and I have to slam it hard.
I had the same problem with that door. I sprayed cleaned the mechanism with a degreaser and lubricated it and them lubricated the lock (through key hole) with a graphite lock lubricant that goes on wet then dries. As far as doors popping open, we have to do a walk around pushing each door corner by leaning in with our lower leg each time we move the coach more than a few feet. These doors are frustrating.