I was having trouble with my original Penguins, the dread burning smell. So, in checking them out I found one control board with a burned relay, obsolete boards now, of course, and coupled with the four button obsolete t-stat, I was set to buy new Furrions. The bedroom ac was still working, though had no temp control. That said, a quick check of the AC mechanicals indicated they were in pretty good shape, compressors ohmed properly. Not being one to throw away operable equipment, I decided to update the controls and thermostat. I also swapped out the capacitors on penguins for new ones.
I wanted, however to allow for easy replacement on the road if necessary. I elected to use Furrion control boxes and T-stat. Here are the parts used:
1 ea. FACW12ESZA-BL Furrion enhanced thermostat.
2 ea. FACC12ESHA-BL Furrion multi zone controllers.
Price, approx 320.00, from Etrailer
A word of caution....Thermostats are specific to controllers. Not all Furrion multi zone controllers will work with all Furrion multi zone thermostats. The parts listed above work with each other. I had originally planned to use the less expensive Furrion controller FACC12ZA multi zone, which has no provision for AC resistance heaters, but they would not work with the Thermostat I had. After talking to a Lippert (new owner of Furrion) engineer she explained this to me. Pleasant and helpful folks I might add. I was able to exchange the control boxes.
Also, in retrospect, I recommend you buy the breakouts for the existing RJ11 cables. I elected to cut the ends off my cables with the intent of soldering them onto the pigtails on controllers, but faced with the reality of making these connections, and concerned about the durability of them over time, ended up pulling new cables to ac units. This was a major pain, and totally unnecessary. The existing control cables are perfectly adequate. These are six wire cables, so you will need three of the breakouts similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/SchmalzTech-Screw-Terminal-Breakout-ST-RJ11-R-MIN/dp/B09KQZG58C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3L4X5O0NJB5KW&keywords=rj12+breakout&qid=1692036137&sprefix=rj12+breakout%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=
I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had existing 12 volt supplies to each AC. Connection was simple, BREAKERS OFF to each AC unit, I disconnected the 120 volt lines which was especially easy since the wire nuts fell off the stranded to solid (a no no), wires. Removed the three long mounting bolts and dropped the lower mounting panel for the penguins. Removed old controls and enclosure for same and set aside.
After a bit of head scratching I came up with a mounting scheme for the largeish controllers which worked well and allows reuse of original Dometic shroud inside. This requires one modification to the controller, however, On the back side of the controllers is a molded plastic wire clamp for the 120 volt cable. I removed this with an oscillating saw, cutting it flush with case, and sealing the hole with a bit of aluminum tape. One other mod, I traced the outline of the controller box, onto the old dometic mounting plate and using a grinder and thin abrasive cutting blade, cut this out. The box is just a bit too tall to fit between plate and bottom of AC. Once this is done the controller drops into and is retained by, the hole cut in mounting plate, with access plates facing down and large six pin receptacle facing forward.
The four control wires used run from 12V+ 12V- Zone A and Zone B. These are clearly marked on thermostat, and on each bundle of wires at the controllers, using the bundle that is labeled "to thermostat". There are four other wires on control boxes you will use, two labelled 12Volt, and Ground, and two for furnace. These attach to existing 12 volt supply, and to a metal ground screw on ceiling frame. .( Don't confuse these two wires with the ones in the "to thermostat" bundle. )The two furnace wires attach to two existing wires connected to propane furnace. For the 120 volt connection of controllers to existing romex wire, I used crimp connectors rather than wire nuts as original. The Dometic plug attaches to the controller receptacle as is. Controllers for front and back are wired identically, all four control wires loop from thermostat, then first controllerA, then second controllerB Freeze sensors go against coil. The little air temp sensors which is bundled with wires needs to be located so it is in return air airstream.
Cranked em up, the old Penguins cool very well even in our 106 degree full sun location. Should one AC fail, it is easily replaceable by a Furrion or other just unbolt unit and replace, using existing controls. Really, this is a pretty universal set of controls, should work with any AC unit that has the six pin plug which I believe is universal among brands. The thermostat is really nice to use, the temp control is precise, fan speed selection works, and auto fan setting is great. (automatically matches fan speed to load, and turns fan off when ac cycles.)
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=dlattach;sa=tmpattach;attach=post_tmp_1345_c525677e758909f1661281ba50c01cad;topic=0
Shown during fitup, controller drops into opening cut into mounting plate. After mounting plate, aluminum tape is used to seal all gaps and holes in mounting plate to isolate output air from input air.
Nice write up, thank you Chuck!
Thank you for the write up. I'm still on the 4 button duotherm stat. If everything hadn't been backordered or non-existant last year, I'd have replaced the boards and gotten a micro air. I may consider this option now.
These boards appear to be slightly cheaper than the boards needed for Dometic t-stat, so offer an alternative. It also appears that you could wire in a Micro-Air (Furrion compatible) thermostat.
Furrion Multi Zone Replacement – Micro-Air, LLC (https://www.microair.net/collections/easytouch-rv-thermostat-furion-replacements/products/furion-multi-zone-replacement)
very much appreciated this. Not needed yet, but excellent to have on hand. and incredibly resourceful, which is always a plus.
Bill
I found two videos on replacing analog control boards with newer digital boards.
https://youtu.be/44bpaNTX0QA
https://youtu.be/jUG4md2_6pE