First off, Harbor Freight is not the best tool company to use for this activity.. or so I'm finding out.
For one, they do not have 3/4 inch extensions. I'm dealing with 1/2 inch impact extensions. I broke one Pittsburg extension. I went and bought some of their icon extensions. They seem better as they don't appear to be the weak point now.
Two, I'm using a 3/4 inch wrench with a 5 foot breaker steal tube. I've since broken 2 3/4 to 1/2 inch adapters. Both impact. I'm about 190 and had most of my weight on it prior to failure.
Would a torque multiplier work better in this situation? Heat? Any ideas how to get these damn things off? It seems the truck tire place that I got these tire replaced at have potentially over torqued these lugs.
A cheap impact from harbour freight is a lot simpler I have found. There's no way I would even think about manually turning wheel nuts, way too many things to go wrong!
I agree that some of the products from HF.... well, are crap. But I bought the 1in air impact from there, and it works great! Used it on all my lugs, twice.
I've got one of those as well. Didn't budge. Worked well for replacing the shocks though. That's why I have a feeling these are "torqued" to 800 or more. Torqued or seized.. I don't know.
If I had the space for a big compressor, I'd be quite happy. I ended up purchasing a torque multiplier and should be here in the morning. We shall see if that works. I've been trying to get these off for two weeks now.
You can have the best impact in the world but if you are using crappy adaptors and sockets they will break,first of all make sure
if you are doing the drivers side that you don't have left hand threads,there will be a L on the end of the wheel stud,next check
Ebay,flea markets and get Matco,Snapon,or Mac sockets and adaptors,maybe think about getting a Proto 3/4 inch torque wrench,
they can be found for under $200,the job will be 10 times easier.
Have you had the wheels off before?
I only ask because some Foretravels have a reverse left hand thread on the drivers side lug nuts, those coaches use the BUD style lug nuts.
I had tires replaced at Bauer Built tires, they specialize in truck tires. I left my coach with them as they replaced my tires. After several hours I asked the manager what was taking so long. I looked into the shop and saw a bunch of frantic faces all doing battle with my left rear wheel. I went out to the shop and the service guy told me the lugs were frozen in place. He had broken off 3 lugs with his 1" air impact, and was rounding off a 4th lug. I was then shocked to see a service guy try clamping a vice grip to the rounded lug nut thinking he could break it loose with that. I then sprinted to the manager. He went out to the shop and I could hear him say to the techs, " you do know that those are left hand threads" they all looked stunned. He told the techs to get a new rim out of stock and to cut my wheel off with a torch, they did.
I could hardly wait for them to mount the new tires so I could get out of there. I drove 2 hours to another shop to have the broken lugs replaced, that cost me another $800.
Lesson learned!
Put antiseeze on the lugs going back.
You have a 1999 320 same as mine so I don't think you have left hand threads. I use a 3/4 inch
drive ratchet with an extension if they are too thigh for my Milwaukee impact wrench.
They changed to metric wheels on coaches between 5209 and 5212 coach build numbers. 5212 is a '98 year model.
Mike
That's why I never let a shop tighten our lug nuts. I almost never have a problem with HF stuff. I got rid of the stainless axle cover on the back wheels. A torque multiplier makes easy work of the nuts so you can use an inexpensive electric impact or other tool. They are about $50-$60 delivered and well worth it. You also need a flip socket. You use it as a normal socket and then once the outside tire is off, you use the socket the same way as the square recess goes on the studs about a quarter inch from touching the inside wheel.
I clean the threads and used a bench wire wheel on the square drive nuts plus some spray galvanize to keep rust away. I use this exact never seez on all threads Amazon.com: Never-Seez 535-30803832 8 oz Mariners Choice Anti-Seize, Black &... (https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-535-30803832-Mariners-Choice-Anti-Seize44/dp/B096G9RPCF/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3QXGAEY9Y4B4B&keywords=mariner%27s+anti+seize&qid=1694041190&sprefix=mariner%27s+anti+seeze%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-2) as it reduces the required torque needed by 44%. It is expensive as shown on Amazon. I bought a 1/2" drive, 300 lb torque wrench at it's max setting to torque the wheels. All never seez compounds are not the same and don't reduce the torque needed even close to the Mariner's Choice.
Once you install the lug nuts this way, it's super easy to remove them with either an electric gun or a breaker bar. You only have to apply 300# to get them off.
If you use a loose nut indicator, you can make an instant visual check on all your wheels. Loose Wheel Lug Nut Indicators 32mm 33mm 34mm Kenworth Peterbilt Volvo Semi... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/283318734498?hash=item41f71ccea2:g:CPcAAOSwgY9j0ZFQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8B%2F7oEnU3aRG6VLSY2UjCxx4DTuazKOM7BTL48YzWBdbCPwm8vjVlAuPNEa%2Bm4q4JwOXAbN%2FOIPuNb7o7RRUctxjMhjAeABlSCGAnvYxleWgQMKUx8ClQ625ysGirh7%2BiY6v0%2FfPy5hU7BH86x3Wahyxm6ShbMxbMlCwlF9lrSL7uhI7tqVfR4uaReOObuAgiZGMH2zMA6rP9PlxE3ahbym0X6KIi9iDxmrECYSBKFrbv8rIpBH91eQ1PYIg0ii4W7qTBeYVJp4tOesYk2E%2B2CCw1D0w2ufdaCZ7cSN%2BLuy05K3KValKwaEKmW8fVXeZpg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsNmEzM1i) Once the nuts are tight, you slip these over the nuts and then install the chrome caps.
Pierce
33 mm is the size socket on your coach.
I use one of these to loosen the lug a bit. Slow but simple and calm - turn the handle for a moment or two. Then I use a battery impact to remove the nuts. I use the impact wrench to install the lugs semi-tight, and a 4-foot bar and electronic torque adapter from HF to retorque them,.
XtremepowerUS Multiplier Torque Wrench Labor Saving Lug Nut Wrench Cr-v... (https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Torque-Multiplier-Saving-Wrench/dp/B07GHDBB53/ref=d_pd_pss_dp_d_1_sccl_3_4/139-7868213-4014117?pd_rd_w=nqUhD&content-id=amzn1.sym.3dd6ff5f-e1b5-4c4b-9429-39c9f308776c&pf_rd_p=3dd6ff5f-e1b5-4c4b-9429-39c9f308776c&pf_rd_r=7FXGPX4V1Q52NP7W54PR&pd_rd_wg=A1YcA&pd_rd_r=836550a9-48d4-4c56-a134-a21e7b95d5b9&pd_rd_i=B00MI0DOW6&th=1)
Actually laughing out loud. Harbor freight. So are you going to get them tight enough after.
33mm
Milwaukee 2767-22 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring Kit -... (https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Torque-Impact-Wrench-Friction/dp/B0754MTTCL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W7BIHKRNK8LN&keywords=milwaukee+1%2F2+inch+impact+high+torque&qid=1694061030&sprefix=milwaukee+1%2F2+inch+impact+high+torque%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-3)
Wear ear plugs. They hit hard and loud
I'm not sure where you guys are at but if you want to swing by my place on your way to Vegas I have the Milwaukee that Scott linked to. If that won't take them off, you're cutting them off.
Yes on the torque multiplier, but if you can get your hands on a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket you'll be impressed by what can be accomplished with a wrench that doesn't flex. I've learned to stand behind the guy holding the impact wrench with my torque wrench in hand and an I'll finish that attitude.
All of that may look "heavy duty" but in reality those studs are working closer to their stress limit than the ones on your automobile.
Thanks for the input, everyone. I ended up buying a torque multiplier yesterday and received it this morning. I'll give it a go. I do have a torque adapter to re-torque. We'll see if that works. If not, I may be going to Autozone or something and seeing if they have a rental wrench.
Yes, a 3/4" sliding handle breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe will take anything off or break the stud.
Can you imagine the time and cost to replace a stud(s) that the last shop over tightened and damaged the threads, etc? I bought a wood splitter last year that the owner tried to remove a left hand thread stud the wrong way. I never replaced the stud but the splitter never goes off the property.
Pierce
I just call a tire service and had them come out and break the lugs loose, 100 bucks. Better than chasing all over, pulling you guts out trying to break them loose. From now on any tire shop that doesn't use a torque wrench doesn't get my $$$$. Went through 4 in Billings Mt before I found one.
Just because a tire shop uses a torque wrench doesn't mean anything if they over torque the
nuts before they put the torque wrench on. It happened to me when I bought snow tires for
the Monaco I had. When I went to put the summer tires back on a few nuts had been put on
to at least 1000 lbs. torque at least 6 ft. of pipe with a two hundred lbs. guy pushing on the
wrench. I had seen them using the torque wrench. I do them myself now.
Since I already have a bunch of Milwaukee 18v stuff and batteries I will eventually, and when a see a fabulous sale price, buy the HD 1/2" Milwaukee impact wrench.
For now, I have a HF 3/4" air impact and a special, dedicated for that tool, large diameter air hose. It has not failed to get anything lose, and the price was very reasonable. This works great at home when I'm near my air compressor but useless away from home.
Away from home I would probably dig out the Coach net phone number.
I bought the 3/4" impact before the HD battery powered units were available.
Now, I would just buy the Battery powered impacts. For what I have invested in the air driven impact and the large diameter air hose and fittings I would be in the same ball Park in pricing compared to the battery powered impacts, plus I could use the battery powered tools anywhere.
I see Woot.com has the multiplier wrench on sale. Torque Wrench Lug Nut Wrench Socket (https://sellout.woot.com/offers/torque-wrench-lug-nut-wrench-socket-4?ref=w_cnt_lnd_cat_tool_2_23)
The 3/4" torque wrench I ordered from them came today, very happy with the purchase. ( post in the Foretravel discussion section)
[Posts starting a new discussion of slack adjusters/brakes moved to new topic here
Slack adjuster frozen [Split from Attempting to remove the wheel lugs] (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46791.0)
- moderator Michelle]
Got mine new on Craigslist for $120 no battery or charger. Tool only