That title covers miles but electrical is what I have going on. Drove the coach came back to the barn and plugged it up. Had Electricity in places as in overhead ac. No electricity to microwave and onboard battery charger. Red light reverse polarity light comes on.. There is no gfi reset on this coach. I trip and turn back on all breakers. Went back to working momentarily but didn't last. I am a zero with electricity beyond 12 volt. Need some help and need easy.
Will add, I can turn off shore power and start the coach and the heart panel shows charging and the microwave lights up, may have had the inverter on I don't recall. I made several changes at different times.
Dub,
Have you verified shore power at the outlet? 15/20? 30? 50 amp?
I ran out of day Bret. I will verify that in the morning. I'm not certain both legs are making it to the coach.
My guess is you have problem with shore power or if you have a cord reel the problem could be there.
No cord reel. Will check closer tomorrow and elemenate shore supply as a culprit.
Do you have a cord that plugs into the coach? If so remove, then reconnect and twist clockwise. I have sometimes not twist and it will not make a good connection.
I have good power source from shore up to the twist plug going into the coach. It's a sealed plug that shows bad connection so driving to Texarkana for another plug or cord.
Had the same issue last winter in Tucson....turns out one of the 30amp breakers on my Freedom inverter had popped...reset it and no more issues
Hans
Put the new plug on and still no play. I can turn off shore power breaker and the portable 110 plug in meter in the wet bay goes up to 120 v. turn power on and it goes to zero as in reversed. Nothing has been changed to have wires crossed before this started failing yesterday . 100 miles for a plug and right back where I started. I can hear the ATS clunk when I turn on power and both roof air works. No microwave and no onboard charger are the things I know aren't working.
" I can turn off shore power breaker and the portable 110 plug in meter in the wet bay goes up to 120 v. turn power on and it goes to zero as in reversed"
With the shore power off meter goes up to 120v?
Inverter must be on.
I would turn off the inverter, let's eliminate it from the equation ...
with the shore power on, check voltage at the transfer switch. Check line side first both legs to neutral then both legs to ground. Then check the load side the same way. If all looks good check the voltage at the main panel, then the sub panel at the line side lugs. Sounds like it could be a loose neutral connection, maybe in the panel or transfer switch.
Remote trouble shooting of electrical problems can be difficult. I always use a good Fluke VOM and start at the source and work my way to the load.
Whats meant by line side Justin? Friend is coming who is electrician. Have the cover off ATS so we'll look see. Not rv acquainted but he is a good electrician.
While probing for voltage on the ATS that were open, they suddenly closed and now it works. Battery charger and all. I don't know to replace anything or not?
Dub, spray CorrosionX on the switch. It will kill any surface corrosion and improve conductivity of the switch. Bet everything will be fine. CorrosionX is sourced on line, made in Dallas.
Think Barry had a write up awhile back about rebuilding the ATS,kits were availible,make sure all
Screws tight.
Dub
Have your electrician make sure that all the lugs are tight on the ATS.
It could have been dust or a bug on the ATS contacts. 🤷♂️
Glad it's working now.
I think you scared Murphy away!🤪
I checked everything for tightness this morning Justin. I was suprised to see how clean it was in the ATS box but something caused the contact not to close, maybe some Murphy Richard mentions. Been working like a rented mule for the past 5 days, ready to rest. Thanks for all replies and ideas.
I think I had the same problem with my transfer switch just after I bought the coach and I pushed
the contactor with a screwdriver and it hasn't happened again in 4 years
On testing the ATS:
Check on the IN side and the OUT side of the ATS.
After removing lid to the ATS and verifying all screws are tight, no burned wires
Shore power on:
4 wires. Common colors are:
Hot L1 black
Hot L2 red
Neutral white
Ground green
Also, with all power OFF/disconnected, verify that the contact points are not burned (think of the old time points in a gasoline distributor). If pitted, they can stick. Fine sandpaper on pop sickle stick can sometimes clean them up enough to work properly.
L1 or L2 to either white or green= 120 VAC
If on 50 amp shore power L1 to L2= 240 VAC.
If on 15/20 or 30 amp L1 to L2= 0 VAC
Thanks Bret!!
Putting lids on things and taking a break between issues, I hope a long one. I started out the thread admitting to being green on 110 ac details. Thought came to me that after having 2 of these rigs covering 13 years, this is the first time I've ever had the cover off the ATS. That in itself is uncommon. What isn't uncommon is an old bird that hasn't been into every system and it is a lot of help when people chime in with experiences they have come across when they were in the midst of such. I don't take this group I've been a part of for so long for granted, instead the group just continues to come thru and verify what we've known all along, if you have a Foretravel you need to be a member of this group whether you know it or not... Thanks..
As far as battery charging from the alternator, an excellent and easy place to check voltage is at the DIODE-BASED BATTERY ISOLATOR.
And, a common failure that gives the same symptoms as a bad alternator.
One or more of the messages of this topic that are a separate discussion about chassis batteries not charging have been moved to Foretravel Tech Talk (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?board=5.0) - https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46837.0 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46837.0)