Got a neat idea from Foretravel GV owner friend Triple Nickle:
On the handle end of the gate valve drill a 1/8" diameter hole about 1-3/8" away from the pull shaft center.
Close the gate valve. Inject white lithium grease into the 1/8" hole until you have about two or three ounces.
Screw a very small, short hex head lag bolt into the 1/8" hole to seal it.
Done.
??? Not sure I'm seeing it. Hawk your sayin the pull shaft is hollow. Or what am i not gettin.
Wouldn't it be better to replace the valve?
It took me a while to figure this out. I think you are supposed to drill the hole in the body of the valve at the top where the handle comes out. I can see this being easier than replacing the valve.
Some idiot glued my pipes & valves together instead of using flanges!
Ouch. Sooner or later you will probably have to deal with that. Can you post some photos?
OK.... Now I get it. Love the idea but could an official grease zerk be used with maybe a remote line to it. Cause,, my 2 dump valves aren't so accessible. Third valve is though.
Undercut saw or as some call it oscillating saw is your friend. Cut out line and extend to outside of wet bay and then add a new valve body and you will be good to go. I got rid of those cables which were always not working correctly after many put their hands on them to no avail. The black can be replaced with the white PVC, just use the correct glue for that install. Best fix I know!
Bob, not knowing the thickness of the valve in the drilled area how would it affect the tapered thread of a Zerk fitting? The little lag bolt is merely a plug.
Black & Gray sewer valves need lubrication to remove stress from handle pulling plastic sliding valve.
Many occasionally pour a quart or more of cooking oil down the toilet and sink traps after emptying and flushing tanks. Let oil settle to back of valves and with quick short open-close actions and repeat. The hope is to lubricate the valve seals. Almost instantly the valves open easily without a drag. The idea of putting some silicon (to not damage rubber seals) base grease into the hollow of the valve is also an old idea. Some screwed a zerk for repeated lubrication. The idea is to coat the plastic valve with grease when the valve rises into the empty valve top now full of grease.
Keep in mind if we keep finding the drain valve hard to open, at some time the rod may disconnect from the flat plastic valve. Just check out what a fellow foretraveler just went through when his valve rod pulled out so they could not open a full holding tank:
Grey/gray water valve stuck closed, tank 2/3 full! (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46801.msg475202#msg475202)
I replace my manual valves with electric valves three years ago. I like them but I have to disconnect the Black valve and try some 3-in rubber hose as somebody mentioned before. My black valve doesn't open and close anymore. My third valve the handle broke because it's been hard to open and close so I'm going to replace that but mine is glued in because of the waste Master hose fitting. Still I want to shorten it a little bit to get the opening back a inch. I like that the waste Master hose has a very secure valve at the end giving me a 4th valve
"Many occasionally pour a quart or more of cooking oil down the toilet and sink traps after emptying and flushing tanks. Let oil settle to back of valves and with quick short open-close actions and repeat. The hope is to lubricate the valve seals. Almost instantly the valves open easily without a drag."
We used the cooking oil method for years. It is amazing how well that works! It is a cheap, easy and gentle solution to the scary issue of having the rod come off in your hand and you sit there looking stupefied and time stands still while you contemplate the enormity of a tankful of poo.
Cooking oil did wonders for our valves.
Doesn't the cooking oil get stuck in the traps? When you pour it in does it automatically settle in the valve area?
No trap in your toilet. Tank needs to be empty