I'm switching out my coach propane tank fittings and the regulators (vertical vent) along with a "Extend a stay" fitting.
The tank valves are wheeled valves, can these be replaced by full flow ball valves?
I read that a sudden opening of the valve can "upset"the regulators, will a ball valve open too fast?
I also plan on removing the electric safety solenoid valve and NOT having one. Apparently these safety valves are no longer installed and I could use a few extra inches to work with.
I have Gas thread sealant, would there be a preference to use Gas Teflon tape instead?
I prefer gas thread sealant on the pipe and the fitting, brush the compound across the male threads to get a good seal
Are you sure that type of valve is legal for a propane tank. You need to make sure that all valves and fittings are up approved for propane.
If they are legal for the propane ball valves will work,just get a quality valve and open it slowly.
Yes, keep it legal. Some places ( Uhaul ) are just looking for a reason not to fill you. Once in Phoenix a dealer refused to fill our onboard tank because it didn't have a current inspection date. As we were leaving i overheard an employee mention that she was a new supervisor.
Then, she was an idiot and certainly should not be in a supervisory position. There is no inspection required for built in tanks. Portable tanks-- yes.
Lon, it has been a few years since I had a propane license, so what you are planning on doing, I would seek a qualified person to advise you on what you are wanting to accomplish. Propane will kill you and it's not to be trifled with! Never heard of a ball valve on Propane, but codes do change. Again, seek professional advise! Grab a NFPA 58 Code book.
Locate a National Oil Well store anywhere there is oil and gas,they have all the ball valves you want,ball valves are used in the natural gas industry almost exclusively,best brands are Apollo and Marpac.
Thanks John.
Not many Oil well supply businesses around these parts but Menards and Home Depot are.
When I browsed through the Menards Gas valve section all I saw were ball valves. I will always pick a ball valve if I have the option.
I also prefer the Gas paste for the threads.
Not being a plumber or trades person, I found many years ago, that its ALWAYS better to ask for advice in advance than to guess.
The test I took to get my propane license was an open book test of either 5 or 6 books. It took me nearly 7 hours to complete the test. There were 10 of us taking the test. I was the last one done and thought that I must really be dumb. I had studied all of the books for weeks. I was the only one who passed and got my license. Lots to know about propane as it can be very dangerous if not treated properly.
FWIW, I have replaced a good number of regulators on travel trailers and fifth wheels. The only troublesome ones, and by troublesome I mean difficult in having to redo a couple times to eliminate leaking, were the ones I replaced with teflon tape (yellow or blue). The ones done with the sealant paste were always without leaks on the first go. Use the sealant. nix the tape.
I have used ball valves as a shut-off on propane lines but only downstream, or after, the regulator, not before it and I would prob not be inclined to try it.
Bill
I'd stick with the wheeled valve, the propane tank valves are back seating to eliminate the possibility of a leak from the valve stem seal.
I installed a 1/4 turn gas cock on the high pressure side of the regulator so that I can back feed for my generator. The jury is still out whether or not a single 40# tank will boil enough propane to feed the generator's engine. I'm waiting for a cold day.
I removed my propane detector. I'm not an idiot and I shut off every thing if I smell the propane odorant.
I use yellow teflon tape.
Absolutely... the backseating function of the wheel valve is worth highlighting.
Bill