Is there a way to remove the old wires and reuse the outlet without destroying the outlet?
Thanks,
Rich
They can be pried out.
The wires were installed with a special hand tool. You cannot duplicate that, use a shallow remodeling wall box with the tabs and a standard outlet
I have reused the receptacle. It's a bit tricky but can be done but I think I would buy a new one
if I had to do it again.
I agree with either buy a new one or install a box and a receptacle. You might get the old one connections tight when reinstalling the wires but if you don't, i hope you're lucky to be able to put the fire out with your extinguisher
As a master electrician told me-- any connection made with push in wire is a problem waiting to happen. I am slowly replacing all of my receptacles with ones that have screws
DWYTIB
Chris
Okay, thanks for the insight. I was hoping there was an easy way to disconnect and re-install. I'll plan to get a new one at Fot/MoT while I'm in Nac in about a week.
As background, I now have a Plug-in Hybrid Jeep Grand Cherokee. It takes a wall outlet (120V, 12-13A and 13 hrs) to put a full charge in that will give me about 27 miles of electric range before the hybrid kicks in. Get for running errands around town.
Apparently, RV parks have had problems with campers trying to plug-in and charge Teslas, resulting in damage to the pedestal. Several RV parks have let me charge but only if I plug into the RV, not the pedestal. The RV style, 120V outlets on the Foretravel can't handle the extended use and get too hot due to the very small contact surface of the push on pinch connection.
For the particular outlet in the picture (passenger wet bay), I'm already in the process of replacing it with a standard box and outlet. To handle the bulkiness of the three, 12/2 w/G wires, wire nuts and the outlet, I'm going to need a separate junction box and then the outlet and it's own box. This is the outlet I will use for charging the Jeep.
The outlet in the driver's wet bay also needs to be replaced. I used it for a charge cycle and can see it over heated. It looks like a direct replacement will be easier than trying to de-panel and use the above approach. I may destroy the outlet getting the wires out but that's okay as long as I don't damage the wires and can put a new outlet in. I'll just be careful not to overload it.
Thanks for the help,
Rich
Rich,
You may want to consider running a separate circuit for your car charger. You should have room in your electrical panel to add a breaker and use it as a dedicated car charging circuit. It should be a pretty straight forward process running romex from your panel to your storage bay.
Even changing the present outlet in the storage bay could still lead to issues elsewhere if that circuit is daisy chained with other outlets. They could possibly overhead if carrying too much load.
Unless Foretravel changed the way they wired the coach on my coach there are a few receptacles
on each circuit. In my coach the bay receptacles are feed but the inverter. I go with Mark I would
run a separate circuit and the easiest way would be to put the receptacle at the back of the
engine compartment.
To reduce the chance of fire in an electric outlet, do not reuse or use RV electric outlets where wires are connected by pushing them in without the benefit of screws to keep them tight.
Avoid them. . .
Running a new circuit is a good idea as well as not reusing an outlet. Now I just need to decide where the best place is for the new circuit/outlet.
As a side note, does anyone know if a 120V, 20A outlet is beefier and has better contact surfaces than a 120V, 15A outlet?
Rich
Yes..... a little higher amperage rated.
Rich, 20-amp outlets have a side facing "T" slot on one of the two progs. 15 amp outlets do not have this "T" slot. MOST use 15-amp outlets everywhere.
It is legal to install 15-amp outlets on a 20-amp breaker circuit as long as the cable is at least #12, and there are multiple 15-amp outlets on that same circuit.
There are various grades of 15-amp outlets, some with tighter connections that may be a good choice. Least expensive grades, can cost less than a dollar each.
Rich if you will but a industrial grade or medical grade 20A receptacle they are built a lot heavier also more $$$
15A residential about 2 bucks industrial or medical grade 20A 8 to 15--as they say get what you pay for
I have used a lot of Hubble brand in the past was well pleased with them, put them in my shop
Chris
Manufacturer says: All Pass & Seymour, adorne and radiant collection outlets are listed for 20A (20 amp) feed through wiring. This means 15A (15 amp) outlets can be used on 20A circuits unless the 15A outlet it is the ONLY outlet on the circuit. You must use a 20A outlet if there is just a single outlet on a 20A circuit.
Don't forget that the car will be outside so the outlet must be GFCI protected.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-SmarTest-Self-Test-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-White-R92-GFTR2-0KW/205999867?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3-71700000112195205--&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UeD1ZKNV71OtG0iHzxqRgYV2&gclid=CjwKCAjwvrOpBhBdEiwAR58-3ADqOyjD8jDUHHKMvPgmkeCMVwEjbsHZq0rPF7bc0UbersPLo3_7hRoCafwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds