Coolant reservoir slowly drops and antifreeze smelling steam in the exhaust on startup.
Unit was rebuilt by Aquahot in CO 6 years ago and I think the installer in MT mucked it up.
No fix without total replacement with a reman unit...$7g's plus...ergo the ouch.
Going to try $40 boiler leak stop. Anyone else done it? Will report my findings in a week or so.
If that fails, I found a matching used unit at one of the RV wrecking yards as an option, and can sell parts off this one.
Love my aquahot as much as I love the coach. Wish me luck.
Mine leaked thru the exhaust as well. I discovered the leak came from the rad cap and was flowing over the top and side then on the exhaust. Have you checked that?
I had the same issue with my Monaco, coolant in the exhaust. Used about 2 gallons a year. At the time John Carrillo wanted 10 cb's to repair it. I sold it and told the new owner it was his choice $40.00 a year or $10k now.
That's my thoughts exactly Chuck. If the leak stays the same, I can deal with it. If it get's bigger, I'll punt. If the leak stop voodoo gives me 5 more years....Hallelujah!!!!
First thing I'd do is to change the radiator cap. While you're doing that look at the filler neck and see if that has any leaks. If so there is a fairly easy fix for that, search the forum. Or better yet call Rudy!
How would coolant get INTO the combustion chamber and exhaust from a leaking radiator cap???
Not sure. The only fluid leaking that I can discover is a leak from the rad cap which is running across the top and down the front side. I presume dripping on the exhaust down pipe. When I soak up the fluid and it is dry the drip on the exhaust stops.
Found the confirmation evidence of a failed boiler tank today when rebuilding zone pumps. Here's what the combustion chamber looks like with an internal tank leak according to Rudy....it will be obvious....this is mine 6 hours after draining the tank. It would have been really wet if the tank was still full. I'm waiting for the boiler seal to arrive and will let that do its thing for a week and report back. Sure hope it works.
All the best Woody. Hope the stop leak helps
I think it's safe to call this a Foretravel Christmas present/miracle..Aquahot's been running for a week with unlimited heat and no leaks, so the tank/burner chamber leak may be "fixed" for the foreseeable future. Knock on wood.
Last week I drained the aquahot (coolant looked surprisingly clean and clear), rebuilt 3 of the leaky circulation pumps with new o-rings from PumpVendor.com, filled and primed pumps, topped off and flushed system with distilled water, then drained 9 gallons, added 8 gallons of antifreeze, a quart of Silver King boiler stop leak and topped off with distilled water. Been running for a week with no more white steam in the exhaust and zero loss in the overflow tank. Only disappointment is the coolant is now Bosco colored from the Silver King goop. No idea yet if I need to keep the stop leak in there or if I can flush it out down the road.
Sorry, Rudy, but still might need to see you in a year or so???!
Here's some pictures of the pump o-ring leaks (defective install of original/rebuilt o-rings) and correct o-rings for these model pumps.
Well, there went all my money, I mean don't be sorry for me. I congratulate you and the fix and do hope it is long lasting indeed. Bravo for you!!!
And, bravo on the pump rebuild. These older heaters will go a long way. All the best.
Woody
So do you think the leak stop fixed the issue with the white steam around the exhaust port under the coach? I thought the rad cap would solve the issue I had but not so. Now the rad cap has no leaks from it but I still get some antifreeze smelling white smoke from under the coach as well as in the ah area. Can you advise?
The boiler leak stop worked for me. I picked this product mainly for country of origin. Amazon.com: Silver King SBSL 1 Quart SAFE LIQUID BOILER STOP LEAK With... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714HLLLK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) Zero leakage in over 2 weeks of constant use.
Followed the bottle directions and I thoroughly mixed the stop leak into a 5 gallons of distilled water before pumping into the tank.
It was a crap shoot, but I figured it was worth a try to spend the $40 vs. $7000. Best bet of my life so far.
Sounds like your coolant leak is not into the combustion chamber proper, but still leaking from the tank to the atmosphere around the exhaust flange.
Best of luck.
Without draining the tank can I just remove rad cap, siphon a bit out and add the bottle? I really don't want to drain everything if possible
You don't have to drain the tank. But I would pull enough out, a couple gallons would do, to get a good mixture with the stop leak...it has the consistency of Hershey syrup.
Woody
Would not the sealer clog the registers, requiring eventual replacement of them?
No. It's advertised for use in hydronic heating systems...the register pass throughs are very large and not exposed to the atmosphere. My system is working great after 3 weeks.