Any 2002 to 2004 U320 owners using Starling - How do you get the cable for the router into the coach? It appears to me that the best way is through the engine compartment and under the bed. I'm stumped.
Does year matter? I have a 99 320. I've run mine in multiple configurations over the last two years. First was into the wet bay, through the middle fiberglass chamber with all of the hoses and wires (I think that's what they are), and then a hole through the floor into the living area under the cabinets. Second way was to put the router under the bed and drill a hole into the engine bay, and run it above the bay hatch and up the ladder. Third and current way is putting the router behind the bedroom TV, poke a couple holes into the bedroom cabinets, run the cable up through the air vents in the back near the rearview camera.
It kind of depends on how permanent or removable of a solution you are looking for. The easiest would be to put the cable through the window. You can also just put the router in the bay and run the cable outside and close the bay door.. Another would be to make a small divot under the bed lift and run the cable through the engine bay.
I just ran it through my drivers side window, but I primarily dry camp and have to pack everything up every trip. It's obviously not a good solution if the weather is bad and you need to keep the temperature manageable in the coach...unless you stuff something in the crack of the window.
Thanks for the info. Coming through the engine compartment looked like the best way to me, I just wondered if someone had figured out a better way.
Mine goes through the same hole as the backup camera wires, into the bedroom cabinet, and then runs through all the cabinets to the router in the corner one. My dish is perma-mounted on the roof though.

We have ours on a detachable flat mount on the roof of our coach with the cable run through the hole where the motorized dish was before I removed it. Easy cable routing to a cabinet above the drivers seat to the router.
Star Mount Systems will modify your dishy with all the power and router components inside of a semi permanent flat mount. If I were to go that route, I think I could bootleg the dish power supply without any additional holes in the roof or additional wiring. $969.00 to modify so not cheap
So other than being stupid expensive is there something I'm missing.
Is your dish a Gen 3?
If so. Did you mount it flat on the roof or use the supplied angle bracket?
Thx Tim
I have the standard and bought the dishy mount for my ladder rail. Ran the wire down the ladder and used some twist ties to tie it to the ladder so it wouldn't move around and make noise. Ran the wire on the ground just under the edge of the coach forward to the first bay on the curb side. Router is sitting inside, plugged in to an A/C outlet in there. Just close the bay door with the cable between the door and seal. The seal isn't hard enough to smash the cable. Easy setup and teardown.
It's the high performance dish. Installed with the angle bracket: Elliott's Grand Villa Solar Install (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46743.msg476972#msg476972)
Down the ladder, down side of coach, receiver is in the wet bay sitting on the soap dish.
We went the route of the Star Mount, very happy with it and super solid. No degradation in signal
I will pull the StarMount trigger if our new Verizon home modem fails us.
So far it's done quite well. Had to reboot it a time or two but at 35.00 a month and a free modem I'm holding out.
I mounted the SL router in the forward tv cabinet where my separate fridge/tv/bedroom outlets inverter circuit power is available, got tired of dangling cable from the cabinet through the driver window and duct taping it weathertight, so I took the plunge and cut the antenna cable. Wired in a shielded waterproof connector in the left forward bay and ran the cable up through the main cable chase in the floor forward of the driver foot well, up the windshield post into the overhead cabinet to the router. Used just enough cable to make that run, leaving over 60 feet for the antenna placement.
I have lots of the shielded connectors and crimper with me, so if anyone wants to cut the cable, I can assist anyone who's in Q.
For anyone contemplating Starlink, it looks like they have discontinued the Gen 2 dish now. I'm sure you can still find them in the stores (bought mine at Best Buy) and maybe online, but be aware. The mounts that are popular for the Gen 2's will not work with the new Gen 3 that looks to be designed to sit on a flat surface.
RVMobileInternet.com has an article on Gen 3 Starlink Discontinues the Gen 2 Standard Actuated Dish, Gen 3 Now the Only... (https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/starlink-discontinues-the-gen-2-standard-actuated-dish/)
The Gen 3 appears to only have a kickstand (although the article mentions you can buy other mounts) and is not self-aligning. You need to manually point Dishy using the app on your phone to help aim it.
At least they got rid of the proprietary cable to the dish and and have standard RJ45 ports on the router so you don't need to buy the ethernet adapter to hardwire to your preferred third party router.
Gen 3 also pulls more power to run it than Gen 2. 50w-75w for Gen 2, 75w-100w for Gen 3.