Hey All,
After Limping through the end of last season with no refrigerator, it's time to start shopping for a new one!
I have looked on line and there seems to be issues with them ALL!
Has anyone replaced their refrigerator with a new 2 way or 3 way? If yes, which brand and model.
I know Norcold and Dometic are the most common, but I also found a brand called Crystal Cold and Unique....both more expensive than the other two brand's. I Just want quality. I am so sick of purchasing name brand items which turns out to be junk.
Note: residential is not an option for us because we like to boondock.
Thank you,
Heather
1995 GV 280
When I bought this coach it had a new Norcold N811 in it. It works great on propane or 120v.
First decision is how much drycamping do you do?
If only occasionally, a residential refrigerator is a valid consideration.
Not sure what is the cause for failure of your fridge, but ours was a cool failure allowing the ammonia to escape evidenced by yellow powder in back of fridge. We had a new Amish fridge unit from JC Refrigeration shipped to Risch RV in Nacogdoches and Keith pulled existing fridge out, removed broken elements, and replace with the new cooling unit. Then put fridge back in. allowed us to keep the original fridge with propane capabilities as we boondock occasionally also. This was done in our last coach. We found it a more affordable option as it allowed us to basically have a new OEM fridge without having to refit cabinetry and get new fridge into coach. Repair was done in kitchen floor inside unit... still not cheap. New coils were $1700 plus labor to install...
I almost only boondock or drycamp and I have a residential fridge. I would never go back to
a propane fridge,
No problem, BUT (yes, large BUT) that would require quite an upgrade to the whole electrical system on the OP's coach.
The original fridge in our U240 had been replaced with another Dometic and was a few years old when we got it. It worked flawlessly for the nearly 10 years that we had it. Our U295 was converted to a residential by the PO. It is very nice and I considered it an advantage when looking to buy. After having it, I have come to the opinion (which admittedly may change again) that unless I had or plan to have solar or was connected to shore power all the time, I would not convert to a residential. When boondocking in moderate temps, your huge lp tank would run the fridge and water heater a long time. I do apologize for the continued sidetrack of your post and hope someone can help you with your question :)
2 panels on the roof and a decent battery will run a small residential .
My van has onev370 watt and one 185 AH batt powering the 4.3ft dorm fridge
Heather, do you know what has failed on the refrigerator? If the refrigerant has leaked it's toast, but there are other, repairable, failure points.
We did a new Amish cooling unit and it works well. We are also at the door to Hell in the summer months. Southern nevada. I literally start the fridge several days before using. If you go that route I would also change the heating elements to the new ones. If you have a fridge Defend and IMO you should it will need the set temp set hotter or it will shut down with the Amish cooling unit.
We replaced the circuit board last year and got it working for two months, then it stopped working again...honestly, we're tired of trying to trouble shooting it...and you can barely find parts for it...the icemaker stopped working for the previous owner and takes up freezer space...there are other "ascetic issues"...so I just want to move on to a newer model...
Have you considered a DC Compressor conversion by JC Refrigeration (Amish Cooling)? They build complete, perfectly matched systems that will replace the existing "barely cool" junk on the back of the box. Can be shipped to you for install (yes, a DYI if you are not faint of heart) or you can travel for a fun filled day to northern Indiana and they will do the install in about 2 hours for $250.... I am about to convert our Dometic 1492 to one of their dual compressor systems. It eliminates the need to rebuild the electrical, need for additional inverter capacity, cabinetry changes and all the other little things that can bite with a change of box. Runs on about 7 amps DC max, less once cooled down.
There are a couple folks on the list who have gone this route with good results. I know of one member who did his recently....DYI with only moderate "bad thoughts".... but happy with his choice....
Amazon.com: KITCHEN BASICS 101: 241798224 Ice Maker Replacement for Electrolu... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078X1Y73X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title)
May have to do a little wiring but super easy install
I took the ice maker out of my Norcold's freezer. It was fairly simple and doing so created a lot of space. I sold the icemaker on ebay.
I've been in AZ the last 3 summers and my Norcold works like a charm in temps as high as 120 with the help of computer fans to help move air through the cooling unit and out the top vent. I don't recall who posted them, but there are instructions on this forum on how do do that.
Fridge Fans: SEE POSTING #29
Any tips for getting fridge to run more efficiently on AC power? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43200.msg434787)
Fans in two outside locations move air for propane or electric fridges. . . Turn them on with kitchen manual lighted 12v switch.