Foretravel Owners' Forum

My new-to-me GV is not switching to generator power when the generator is running regardless of whether shore power is connected or not.  I've taken a picture of the relay box.  There is power at the generator relay inputs when the generator is running but the relay is not switching.  I'm quite certain the capacitor in the middle of the picture is blown and hope that is the only problem.  Unfortunately I know very little about electronics.  It is marked M++ 2uF 200V, TT200X2, 8340H.  My guess is that all I need is to match 2uF 200V.  Is that correct?

Like this one: NCC FNX-H CAPACITOR 2UF 200V P3771 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/401781045278)

What does it say on the label on box lid.  Need to know what model ATS you've got.

I know nuttin about capacitors.  I see two things in your photo that look questionable to my untrained eyes.

TS-50 Transfer Switch, Todd Engineering Sales, Elkhart.  I can take a picture of the schematic on the box tomorrow, but it's pretty simple and doesn't include the actual relay circuitry.  The connectors at the top are from shore power, the ones just below and to the outside of them are generator inputs, and the bottom ones are outputs.  50 amp so there's 2 hots (black and red) and a neutral.

I know little about caps either, but I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to be able to see their innards like you can on that one.  That's your bottom bad.  I have no idea what the top bad(?) thing is.

In my coach, there is a transfer switch under the bed. Is that what this photo is? The main breaker panel is also right there. Could it be your trouble is one of those?

My apologies for not researching it myself.  The thing at the top is the time delay module.  It looks like most people send these things in for repair or replace them with something newer.  I just saw that the cap was clearly bad and thought I might simply replace it.

Yes, it is the transfer switch under the bed behind the breaker box.

UnclePa,

With that capacitor bad in the wire that feeds voltage to the closing coil the coil can't be energized thus closing the contactor.  You can beat that price if you shop around on eBay or amazon and even see if you can find a bulk of 5 or 6 as you may need them in the future.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.  That is one of the reasons I asked my original question about a matching part.  2uF 200v is kind of hard to find.  2.2 uF 250v is common.  My guess is 250v is fine as that is probably a maximum voltage, but I have no idea whether 10% more capacitance makes a significant difference.

Edit: After further research, I think the "M" means a 20% variance, thus the 2.2uF should be fine.  And I'm correct about the voltage.  So, I think I've answered my own question.  However, if the time delay module is also bad, things get more complicated.

The gen runs for maybe 10 seconds before I hear the clunk of the relays.

Don't take my word that it is bad...it just looks (to me) like it is kinda darkish colored (perhaps burned) and maybe something is missing from the center (hole?).

I tried to find an online photo of the innards of same ATS model, but was unsuccessful, so I don't know what that time delay thingie should look like.

Hey.  I just looked at mine today while changing oil
BA ground post near the engine side of the box. 
I know that I have cleaned it up and this worked better

Replace the cap was a glorious failure.  It did automatically switch after about 40 seconds, but after about 20 more seconds, the new cap blew up with a cloud of smoke.  I've ordered a new ATS switch.

Probably another component that is bad causing the cap to blow. Due to how old that transfer switch is, I think a new one is the best way to go.