Well, yesterday my wife and I finally took the coach out for the first time to Lake O' the Pines about 20 miles from home. This was just primarily a test run to put everything into service at once and identify any issues. I had hoped I would be in the clear but a few issues did show themselves.
1. When I pressurized everything with water for the first time in many years (yes, i am using a water pressure reg.) I noticed the spray wand next to the toilet had a small trail of water running down the hose from the back side of the toilet towards the nozzle and pooling on the floor. Visually, everything looks normal, nothing seems loose. Not sure the issue here, any ideas?
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2. This morning after having water pressure on all night, I opened the water heater bay and discovered a pretty significant drip coming from the bottom center of the water manifold. Click link below for videoIdeas?
Shared album - G-Z-M - Google Photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/CocdgfCo9v36Ude59)
3. While on 50amp shore power at the campground pedestal, I do not have any power to the TV/VCR, receptacle on the flip up table by the recliner, receptacle under the kitchen table, GFCI (green lite is on, no power and it is brand new), none of the wall sconces work (installed new bulbs). I have talked to Wayne about this several times and he suspects it could be that I am on only one leg of the 50amp and/or the transfer relays are not working properly. I pulled and visually checked every fuse in the panel and all breakers are good. I am back home now and no longer on 50amps. I understand I can clean the contacts on the transfer switches but I am still inclined to replace them mainly due to age. Anyone have any other ideas?
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLLZppth/IMG-1526.jpg)
So, back to the water heater. It is working really good and gets VERY hot. However, I am curious if someone can help me understand why there are 3 different switches for the W/H. There is a water heater switch at the foot of the bed down close to the floor, one at the kitchen sink and one on the water heater itself. Why are there 3 and when should they be used and not used?
(https://i.postimg.cc/28PX7Rrq/IMG-1525.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHfRLSGb/Screenshot-2024-03-17-152352.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYz2dh3Z/IMG-12522.jpg)
Unfortunately, we headed out in a storm and sat in the coach all day yesterday waiting out the storm. I have posted on here previously a problem with my wipers parking to the outside. Yesterday was the first day I have really used them and here is a video showing how "out of whack' they are. Notice how far the passenger side comes inboard. Still not sure of the issue, have not dug into the dash yet. Click link below for video
Shared album - G-Z-M - Google Photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/DjpvGENsVsWYYjRx8)
Only big surprise to me was that I could not dump waste. I thought I had everything covered for this process but the twist connector on the new hose I got is just slightly too small to fit the coach outlet. Also, to confirm, there are two "T" handles, I assume one is for gray water and the lower one is for black water?
Otherwise, propane is full, stove works good if I manually lite it, the striker knob isn't working. The toilet seems to flush and has a good amount of water flowing, water pressure in the bathroom sink works fine but seems a little low on pressure. Fridge is working good, furnace works good, microwave works good. Did not try the icemaker so still unsure on it.
Do I really need the water pressure regulator or does the coach have one built in? I am and will be in a learning curve for a while looks like.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpv3JQ3J/IMG-1540.jpg)
I never leave the water pump on or leave the system pressurized . Leaks are going to happen .
I don't think I had the pump on or did I? If I did, I ,must have by mistake from not knowing what I did. When we left the site, I did open the drain valves to release the water pressure. Not sure if that makes any difference or not. I turned off the water heater switch on the kitchen sink before we went to sleep.
#2 Your water manifold could be cracked. You could try very gently tightening the bolts. Get this solved ASAP!
The water heater switch at the foot of the bed is for the electric element.
The water heater switch by the sink is for propane only. The switch on the water heater looks like AC on the left and propane on the right.
Great, thanks Dave. Wayne explained the one on the water heater but the one at the bed and sink had me puzzled.
If the manifold is cracked, it that a huge deal to replace?
You need a Thetford to Valterra sewer adapter. Should be found at most RV supply stores, and from the usual online vendors.
sewer hose connection? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42608.0)
Sewage connection adapter (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40319)
Foretravel as OEM used a Thetford connector on the coach.
Much more common these days is Valterra, which is likely what your new hose is set up for.
You can buy an adapter, you can cut off the one on the coach and glue a new one one, or you can try to find a Thetford elbow (fairly rare these days, but pic with p/n attached).
If you go the "cut off and glue on new" route, take a look at the third dump valve modification a number of folks have done.
This is the water pressure regulator I advise: Regulator - Fairview Hi-flow brass in-line Fixed 55 PSI – RVWaterFilter (https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/collections/adjustable-regulators/products/high-flow-water-regulator)
If you want a permanent solution remove the existing coach RV adapter and glue this one on.
Amazon.com: Valterra T1029-2 Termination Adapter - 3" Bayonet x 3" Hub ,... (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1029-2-Termination-Adapter-Bayonet/dp/B0006MRRWG/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_2/138-8992365-3812961?pd_rd_w=QPFON&content-id=amzn1.sym.2b132e63-5dcd-4ba1-be9f-9e044543d59f&pf_rd_p=2b132e63-5dcd-4ba1-be9f-9e044543d59f&pf_rd_r=8NSRG81QFF1V8PTGD0WT&pd_rd_wg=dViUo&pd_rd_r=94332e0c-d10b-4141-8e14-479c117e18c6&pd_rd_i=B0006MRRWG&psc=1)
Thanks Michelle, I will get one ordered ASAP
Thanks Dan, just ordered this one:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNXcFGjg/61-Go-HY-Sr-PL-AC-SL1000.jpg)
I find the safest is to fill the tank and only use the pump and when not in use the pump can
be turned off. That way if there is a leak it can be better contained.
The wipers have been installed backwards under the dash. The swinging of the passengers wiper
I have the same problem which I haven't figured out how to fix. The first time I worked on the wiper
it work properly for about 15 minutes and then went back to swinging too far.
I might have to try filling and running off the tank.
Yes, these wipers are very annoying as they are. I am sure there is a easy fix once I get inside the dash. It sounds like just getting to them is the hard part. I hope there is a hole cut in the dash already.
Use a little silicone when mounting it then leave it mounted. It comes loose real easy and can drip a little.
Until I did the permanent fix I had mine siliconed for a couple for years and left installed all the time. You will need a new cover cap for it if you don't already have one. Cheap and in almost every RV store and walmart.
I'm fairly sure you will have a hole in the dash as someone put them back in wrong.
You will probably need to replace the vacuum breaker and spray hose assembly. See the link below for some info:
Sealand traveller vacuum breaker (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28316.0)
In case unclear, your hot water heater can heat with propane or electric.
The switch on the bed is for electric on/off.
The switch on the sink, with the red and green lights is for propane. If you press the propane button the red light will momentarily illuminates until the burner fires and remains on. At that point the green light will remain on.
As always, the wealth of knowledge on here from the most simple things to most complicated is incredible. I really appreciate everyone's help. Thanks Jeff, now that I have that noted in my brain, if I can get the leaking manifold fixed without too much work, I will be super happy.
I recommend removing that OEM pressure regulator. Ours was attached behind the wet bay panel with a hose washer and those can fail and leak. I now use an external adjustable combination pressure regulator/ back flow preventer so it's controllable and I can keep an eye on it.
Your water heater switches are most likely in series.
So for electric, you will need the switch on the foot of the bed and on the water heater both on. Make sure you do not turn on the water heater (electric) without water in the tank. It will quickly burn out the heater element.
For propane, you will need the switch by the sink and the switch by the water heater both on. You can run a few tests and figure it out pretty quickly.
Rich
I replaced my water manifold after it cracked from freezing. They have changed the size slightly and it required me to re-plumb the PEX.
It may be repairable but I have no experience with that.
Rich
Thanks Rich, I am going to take to Mike's this weekend and start taking a closer look at this.
I am not sure where mine is but I will start looking for it. Do you have part info for the one you are using?
The installation of the third valve would be beneficial to overcome a leaking main valve. Also enables back flushing the black tank with gray water. I do this every dump. If your in your dump station you may also want to do a seal replacement on your dump valves. Dont forget to lube the dump cable at this time also. Preventive maintenance is your friend. The third valve mod with the new adapter is a great addition IMO. Yet its belt and suspenders mentality but having options could save your trip.
With the gray tank being half of the capacity of the water tank. Mixing the waste tanks is the only way for me to get 4-5 days on site.
I just have a rubber cap at the end and open both tank valves. I will get a newer style third valve soon.
Just to note, Zack and Ginny's 1998 U270 has the following tank capacities:
102 gallons fresh
110 gallons grey
54 gallons black
Media [ForeForums Foretravel Motorcoach Wiki] (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=through_the_years:1998#pid=6)
That makes a lot of sense . FT made a lot of engineering errors on the earlier coaches. Math is hard .
Zack. Here's the one. I see that it really isn't a back flow preventer also, so I should probably ad one.
Thanks Bob, I will look into getting one of these asap. What is the max "safe" pressure for my coach?
I believe mine is set at about 50. Had it at 45 for a year or 2 but the kitchen faucet struggled to switch from spray to stream so I bumped it. Plus I think the coach water pump is higher than 45 so