Hello all...I popped open my generator bay door in front yesterday while checking coach in storage, and all the heavy rubberized, fiberglass backed insulation that was on the door sloughed off and pretty much disintegrated onto the ground. Stuff was pretty heavy. I assume it is also for sound proofing. Left kind of a mess on the inside of door. Is this type of product still made, or what do folks replace with. What would you use to clean old and attach new insulation. My coach is a 99 U295. Previous owner installed a Cummins Onan 8k.
Many posts on this subject,I use products made by Noico,can be had on Ebay,can scrape the old stuff off and lightly sand,are you sure you have fiberglass my 96 has a metal enclosure.
Yes, the front bay door, that pops up, is fiberglass....
Mine is still mostly intact,used some caulk to shore it up,probably could use the noico on that area,would be alot of scraping,
others will reccomend some other products,think that area you want something for sound reduction.
Be careful as the generator pulls air in to keep cool and loose debris in the compartment could cause havoc.
There are lots of Forum postings on reinsulating the generator and engine compartment.
A couple to get you started
engine compartment insulation revisited (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12671.msg63903#msg63903)
Generator refresh but with new style mounts (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46565.msg473108#msg473108)
Generator Insulation Mounts and Hoses Video (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44242.msg447611#msg447611)
Generator Box Reconditioned (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40199.msg397909#msg397909)
generator box insulation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42985.msg431854#msg431854)
generator box insulation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42909.msg431042#msg431042)
Next Task - generator box insulation - questions (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41232.msg410097#msg410097)
It is sound proofing insulation and is only needed to reduce the sound of the generator. I did
mine and found insulation at a marine shop.
Point being missed here is if its falling off you need to unscrew the front cover , not just the access door and remove all you can before it drops down and effects cooling access and overheats the generator head. You can run without it for as long as you want. I removed mine and never reinstalled. I plan to eventually but hasnt even made the list yet, although it's probably time. With all mine removed I will measure the DB level running the air conditioners pre and post for comparison. Am curious how much of a difference it will make. Your generator engine will shut down if it overheats, BUT the generator head will not. It will run to destruction I believe.
Ok... thanks guys. I will check the other areas of generator bay and make sure it is not falling. As I cannot slide the new generator out, it will just have to wait for another time...
By removing the front cover this will allow access to most of the area. You will be able to reach over and remove falling insulation.
Dont forget that the generator end bearing requires replacement eventually. Yours may be brand new condition, but if its not dont let it fail, costs way to much to replace a generator for a failed bearing.
Sorry I forgot that you don't have the enclosed box. Crainman called and reminded me. Makes way more sense. Nevertheless same bearing and havoc voltage regulator issues.
anybody used the liquid, brush on sound deadener?
I have used this product twice, once for outer gen door (the outer cover not the actual gen) and once in my front overhead.
It is lightweight and easy to work with. It it NOT as robust/heavy as the original, but works fine for noise and heat reduction.
DYNAMAT 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener
Amazon.com: DYNAMAT 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive... (https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11905-Hoodliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B00069QLVC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1POH9DRUMM78E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.82ZoHETG2OQUCNIpiQHdSD0lMtDQMXCkq4UtM92xbgNMtM7ExgfzqET_538QZxxXYaxkav6bJy77JrfL-Te9WIjtOFVHG2HzZSPu2iTqy7G6jBH3DJ47jOv3fMrwqTawAusWXOKoG3gtzretc0b79_bGd0eZroFwq-VocjW1w-l8gLcdWA8birOAgdHnLxVBQvoSP-9DOqr_FFRvYwWrpu-Nll7i8hZsnRBQcGVuP4g.-_jUwbIZ3acZEATP_rrUSIoVTtHhrrsrPfr2ZpxKq0Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=dynamat+11905+hoodliner&qid=1711754371&sprefix=dynomat+11905%2Caps%2C513&sr=8-1)
I used a brass wire brush on a drill to clean the fiberglass door of the old insulation.
It's a messy job and awkward to get at, so make sure you are not in a space where folks will mind.
I found the dust quite itchy too.
Once that was done I wiped down the surface with Isopropyl and let it air for a while before applying the new Dynamat style stuff with contact adhesive. So far so good, still holding on.
The original sound deadening insulation used in many places on the coach appears to be a mass loaded vinyl sandwiched in between two layers of open cell foam. Great stuff but unfortunately did not hold up well to time and the elements. I replaced the insulation in my front cap with EPS foil faced foam. Does anyone know of a product currently available with a density similar to the original insulation and with equivalent sound deadening capabilities?
You can look at this from west marine
Fire retardant up to 225.
Don't know if that's sufficient temperature rating.