Hi all,
I'm new to Foretravel and just purchased a 2001 U270. I paid a premium for the coach a also bunch of money to have it inspected. I also thoroughly looked over the coach myself. I knew about the rust issues (bulkhead separation) and thought I knew what to look for based on various posts and articles on this forum and others. The coach I bought looked clean and I was excited to get it home. At home I noticed that some rust had fallen onto the sewage hose pass-thru hatch door. After further investigation I find that the steel frame which forms the hatch opening is completely rotted. Similar issue in the bay holding the water heater and water distribution manifold. These finding I suspect are only the tip of the ice burg. The discussions on the bulkhead separation seem inadequate to me. Simply looking at the bolts and condition of the fore and aft bulkhead mounting brackets is not enough. Broken or weak bolts are a symptom of a potentially much more serious problem and that is that the basement frame assembly is toast. This is not as simple as replacing a few bolts. This is going to be a process to get corrected.
Anyway I tried to make an appointment with Foretravel service to have them give me initial assessment, but they are completely unresponsive. Very disappointing. The place I bought the coach, Motor Homes of Texas, has a service department which I contacted and I'm waiting to hear back from them. I suspect that MOT knew that this condition existed in coach, how could they not given that they completely detailed coach top to bottom. I even specifically asked the sales man about this specific problem. I now suspect that the detailing was more of a cover up.
Anyway, I fear I'm going to have to replace the bottom portions of the bay framing and that I'm going to have to do it myself. My question is; does anyone on this forum have the mechanical and assembly drawings for the frame? It seems I saw at least one mechanical frame drawing but can't find it. Any input is greatly appreciated. Oh, if anyone else has had this experience and knows of a reputable person or outfit which can fix the problem at hand and correct the original design such that the system is water proof and sheds water properly, you will have friend for life.
Cautionary Note: Don't assume that your inspector will cover your @#$ and that your dealer is interesting in selling you a quality used coach.
Regards to all.
(Moderator Jeff edited title for clarity, to get more help.)
John, call me, Rudy Legett. 7 one 3 8 one 8. 3234.
I had my bulkhead repaired in Nacogdoches. Took it to Keith Risch, 936-462-3764. Happy with results. Cost me about 3k to replace section(s) under plumbing bay in front of rear axle.
Try looking on page 3 of the Schematics folder in our Excellent Forum Library:
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?media/album/schematics.194/view_name_asc/page-3/#gallery_contain
Your near the oil patch so you can find a rig welder to work with you,how much can you do yourself,if you have a place to work on the coach you can work on it there,find the previous posts and pictures and go from there,if you remove the whole basement area and build a new frame you can get by without drawings,just build a new frame and rust proof it,best paint I ever used is Rust Bullet,not ospho or por15.
The correct way to proceed when rusted box beams under the wet bay are detected is to drop the "belly" fiberglass, starting at the rear bulkhead and proceed toward the front until good clean box beams are found.
Often just the wet bay section has been compromised.
Please post a picture of the damaged area AND a picture of the rear bulkhead showing the junction of the fiberglass "belly" and rear bulkhead.
Very sorry to hear you have become a victim of unscrupulous conduct. I would recommend taking your coach to Keith for evaluation and direction for resolution.
Sorry to hear this. I recently commented about how I didn't think MOT was a good place for first-time FT owners to buy a coach because you can't get a good inspection there (Keith R not allowed) and they only represent the interests of the consigner. Boy did the pitch forks come out after I said that.
And yes, they are very good at 'detailing' the coaches prior to sale. Sorry this shook out the way it did for you. Take it to Keith and he'll have you fixed up better than new in no time.
Saw the post ,thought you were right.
Sorry to hear about this John, but may I suggest that as disappointed as you are right now, don't jump the gun.
First get the information you need, have an independent inspection done ASAP by someone who knows the brand well.
Keith Risch would be a good choice, but there are others if he's not available. Keith's got a shop in Nacogdoches, best to take it to him if you're in a hurry.
Make sure you know & understand the fine print of any documentation you have from the first inspection and the sale.
Read up on the Deceptive Trade Practices Act, and see if you have any grounds there, maybe get a professional opinion, once you have the second inspection in hand.
Finally, even if you end up having to do this repair on your own dime, there's a lot of good in knowing your coach well, which you certainly will after that, and a lot of help to be found here. Including how to correct the overflow so this doesn't happen again. As with any older coach (and most new ones), there will always be problems to overcome, and things to learn & fix, and you can count on this community to help you do so. Best of luck.
Brett is correct, the only way to know what you have going on is to peel back some of the underbelly fiberglass ahead of the rear bulkhead, also check the front.
If you cut back about 1' at each end you can get a good look and see if you have to go farther. I found a small grinder perfect for cutting out the fiberglass.
A 4x8 sheet of fiber glass panel FRP (available at any of the big box home stores) will give you more than enough material to replace the removed fiberglass.
It will also give you access in the future to inspect the joint.
On my coach I found that the bulkheads were fine but the "bolts" that were factory installed were garbage and almost all were rusted through, I did not see any reason to ever trust any way of testing those bolts, replacement is the answer.
I drilled through the bulkheads, front and back, and replaced the factory garbage with grade 8 zinc coated bolts and nuts. Then painted everything with a rust prevention paint.
Thanks for all the feedback. Here are some comments and answers to some questions people asked as well as some photos.
1. I tried calling Keith Risch at Foretravel. I leave messages and get no return calls. I think someone said he also owns his own shop. Is that correct? Is the number posted above a better number to call him?
2. I have the tools and the skills to do most of the work myself and my son does old muscle car restorations for a living (what a great job) so he does a lot of metal fabrication, welding and other mechanical work. The problem is the space and getting to coach off the ground to work on it. My lovely wife doesn't want it sitting in the yard for months and I can't say I blame her. The job itself seems pretty straight forward but time consuming. Seems you'll need to tear apart any bay that has rotted metal beneath it.
3. I appreciate the comment about not getting ahead of myself. Also I did get it inspected by an independent inspector. I really liked there attitude and flexibility but apparently they weren't very thorough.
Photos to follow when I figure out how to attach them.
Keith doesn't work at Foretravel (anymore). He's independent so you want to call the number above
Photos showing the rust in the sewer bay as well as rusted bay separator in the water heater, water manifold bay. One photo of the aft bulkhead angle iron.
I see from the profiles that there are a few fellow Texans here. Good to know.
How the heck did your inspector not see this.
The rust in the upright wall is disturbing to me. I've not seen many post's with that problem.
John, sorry for your issues. Was this in outside/independent inspector?
When you get a chance fill out your forum profile to include your coach info including year made
And what part of the country you reside My first choice would be Keith and my second FOT. Text Keith and email the service writer at FOT, plus call and leave message from your cell. Keith has a hard time turning away work so he can get very busy. He also flies around inspecting coaches and I don't think he has an office manager.
I imagine you are frustrated, but you are asking a very knowledgeable group of committed owners who will have good advice.
Yes this was an outside inspector from Houston. I also missed it probably because I was more concerned about the bulkhead bracket. Plus I had to peel back some material to see it. The post rust should have been caught though.
I've tried calling FOT, they don't return calls. Also I don't see anywhere on the website where there is an email address. I'll try Keith today.
Our recent experience is that Foretravel is focusing on their new coaches. They do not seem interested in our older coaches. When we were there in the March the service bays were full, almost all Realms with a few IH's.
Alan Hall
shop.texas@foretravel.com
James Triana
service.texas.director@foretravel.com
Yeah I suspected that might be the case. Personally I like to look of the older coaches and feel in general that they are build much better (of course there's the rust ;) ). I looked at a 1995 Eagle which was beautiful but passed on it because of delamination. If anyone is interested here's my coach, I can't wait to get it in top notch shape.
Better to text Keith and he can be (he's really busy) slowish about returning the text but he's hands down the best bang for your buck. Did you call Rudy? (One of your first replies in this thread) He has the contact info for the welder Keith uses I think
Did not call Rudy but did sent message. Trying Keith today and will send email to FOT. I really really appreciate all the help and support I'm getting here. Truly outstanding. Hopefully some of us will meet up on the road one day. I'll share some of my good bourbon with you.
John, it is after 8 am, call me.
Some Elk's lodges have RV parking,maybe could work out something to work there.
Yup, unusual to have the damage up in the vertical walls. That as well as the separation of the fiber glass at the rear bulkhead are pretty obvious.
OK,
So Foretravel finally responded to me. I've gotten mixed messages about the service at FOT can any of you with experience fixing similar problems at FOT please chime in regarding your satisfaction with the work. Should I wait to see if Keith gets back to me?
You are likely going to be MUCH happier price and quality wise if you wait for Keith.
Not to mention the post service support. Just having a relationship with Keith will pay dividends
Keith is where you want to go ...initially anyway. He is difficult to get hold of sometimes. Very busy guy. But, he will help you if he can. You will know the job is done correctly, he will not upsell you to getting anything you don't need, and the price will be much better than FOT or MOT.
Keith usually monitors the Facebook page..Foretravel Owners Group. If you haven't posted there, or tried him thru facebook messenger you might do that. I know it's hard, but, try to be patient., otherwise you could make an appointment at FOT a month or longer out, and then cancel it if need be. That way you are in line, so to speak....P.S. Keith's shop is just up the road from the FOT and MOT...good luck and safe travels..
I will continue to try and get a hold of Keith. Just making sure I have some options. Also talked to MOT and since I just bought the coach from there I may be able to get them to pay for some of the repair. Plus if I understand correctly MOT uses the same welding shop Keith uses. Just getting some traction with MOT and FOT is making feel a little better about this business. Again thanks for all the feedback and support.
I know this is an old post, by at least 2 months, but, I thought I'd add this anyway. The welder Keith uses is Thomas Welding, which is right across the highway from Foretravel. Their number is 936-560-1006.